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Oil and Air Filter Change - Skoda Superb CR140 (CFFB)


silver1011

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Excellent set of pix and a good blow-by-blow. I was undecided on vacuuming vs draining, but my bad back made the decision for me. I bought a 12v oil suction pump from the westfalia catalogue, about £20,and have been using it on all our cars ever since. That's well over 200,000 miles in  the last eight years or so, and no problems ( apart from dislodging the output pipe accidentally and squirting a bit of oil on the drive, giving myself a mucky badge of honour). I noticed that Lidl sold a very similar looking gizmo a few weeks ago for £12-ish.

I always change oil well ahead of schedule. I also suck it out into empty graduated oil canisters or similar. That gives me a rough idea of how much has come out. Don't forget the volume will be greater when the oil is hot, as it does expand, hence all the good advice about checking levels on the dipstick with the engine up to full temperature.

If I suck out 4.5 litres, and I know I only put 4 litres in last time, the difference can only be expansion, or expansion and other fluids.

If I wanted to be completely mythbuster-y about it, I'd check the old oil next day when it has cooled. I'm not that far gone yet....I think.

the pump is a boon if you accidentally overfill the sump.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've just done my Yeti (CEGA engine) this morning (fuel filter and oil + filter change) and found this thread useful.

 

I can confirm that the only significant difference is the location of the oil filler hole and the type of oil filter needed! The Yeti (CEGA) had a fuel filter like the one originally supplied to the OP.

 

I just need to check the oil level when I get back home after a run and see where it has settled to.

 

Fule filter did not need priming with VCDS after changing and I could not hear any self-priming going on when the ignition went on as it did in my old Octavia. So that's good news and a reason to do that as well.

 

£22 for two Mahle filters and with the 4.2 litres of Shell Helix oil left in the garage (not quite enough to reach the maximum level on the dipstick) from my Octavia, and it was 1.5 hours well spent and about £160 saved over a dealer 'Minor' service.

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  • 2 weeks later...

My main dealer always charges for a new sump washer so I assume my oil always

gets dropped.

I'm glad to hear there are still some main dealers doing it the old fashioned way,I seriously doubt the ability of the pump method to get the worst of the oil debris out of the engine IMHO.

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  • 4 months later...

Took my Superb for a main dealer service last week, charged for a sump plug (or at least it was listed on the invoice), but the dash cam revealed it was sucked up out of the dipstick.

 

It also revealed a complete lack of attention to detail and overall care which has only reinforced my resistance towards main dealer servicing.

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Took my Superb for a main dealer service last week, charged for a sump plug (or at least it was listed on the invoice), but the dash cam revealed it was sucked up out of the dipstick.

 

It also revealed a complete lack of attention to detail and overall care which has only reinforced my resistance towards main dealer servicing.

 

 

 Complaint time me thinks and not letting the dealer say "oh the invoice was a mistake will we remove that charge".

 

Who was if you want to say?

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The bill was still the same though, my dealer charges £139 for a minor service, I get the impression that items that make up the bill is just a standard list.

 

It also lists 'cleaner' which I didn't see used either?

 

To be fair they replaced both front DRL bulbs, itemised them on the bill but still charged me £139.

 

The biggest surprise was the master technician calling me an '****hole' for fitting LED rear lights (for reasons detailed in the other thread you've just posted in). All in all the 'behind the scenes' environment compared to the glitzy, 'all smiles' and shiny front-of-house environment couldn't be more different.

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They will have to change their ways because I think in the not to distant future there will dial in videoing the service facility available as there is else where.

Also it would be good to them to an off the record chat with them using the video as a means of "educating" their staff because a lot of cars have dash cams.

It would also be good to see them wriggle :D  a bit but as you have stated acknowledging the give and take on the bill.

Edited by Danny 57
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If I were you, I'd let it ride silver.

Keep your powder dry for when your car comes back damaged, with an extra few miles on the clock, or they charge you for something more material without having done the work.

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Yeah, I've saved the footage for ammunition if needed in the future.

 

It does make for interesting viewing though, especially the bit where the valeting lads took the car round the corner to their off-site storage yard so that one of the lads could bring another car back to the dealers. I'll let them have that mile for free!

 

If only I could speak Polish  :D

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After changing the fuel filter on the wife's PD140 Octavia Scout and realising it was just as easy as the air and pollen filter I did the one on the Superb this afternoon.

 

I'd heard that to change the fuel filter on a CR engine VCDS would be required as unlike the older PD engines the CR doesn't run the fuel pump when the ignition is turned on thus not replenishing the fuel in the fuel filter housing after removing the old filter. However for me this was not needed. I made sure I was very careful when I lifted out the old filter to ensure I didn't spill any diesel and made sure as much fuel was able to drain out of the filter back into the housing.

 

I placed loads of old towels around the fuel filter housing to ensure any spillages went no where near the cambelt.

 

Using a T20 (Torx) I undid the 5 screws.

 

Using a flat screwdriver I gently prized off the lid being very careful not to bend or distort the lid. Using a second screwdriver to spread the load helped.

 

The filter is just a push fit onto the lid, I was able to lift the lid up and off and was able to use the screwdriver to hold the filter to stop it falling back down into the housing before it detached from the lid due to the weight of the fuel still in the filter.

 

Holding the lid up to one side (it's hard to store it completely out of the way as the fuel lines out of the top don't have much give in them) I held the fuel filter over the top of the housing for a good few minutes whilst the fuel dribbled out and back into the housing.

 

The old filter was actually quite clean...

 

Whilst waiting I replaced the rubber seal, prizing it off with a screwdriver, giving the lid and rim of the housing a good wipe. I rubbed some diesel over the new seal and fed it onto the lid.

 

The inside of the fuel filter housing was very clean, no debris...

 

The new filter simply drops into the housing, slowly sinking as it fills with diesel. There was enough diesel left in the housing to fill the filter and completely submerge it.

 

Drop the lid back onto the top of the filter housing, make sure it aligns up with the indents and screw holes and ensure the tube on the underside of the lid drops into the rubber seal on top of the filter.

 

On both the Octavia and Superb no matter how firm I pushed down on the lid it wouldn't close completely, however using the screws to pull the filter lid back down flush did the trick on both cars, just make sure you alternate from one side to the other when tightening them up to ensure the lid seals evenly.

 

I dipped each screw in grease before re-inserting them to make life a little easier next time.

 

Started the engine, no issues, no misfires, nothing. Left it ticking over for a few minutes whilst watching the filter housing like a hawk for leaks, again nothing. A quick spin around the block and back on the drive in less than 20 minutes!

 

The Skoda part number off the old filter is 3CO 127 177 (UFI). I bought a MANN filter from Euro Car Parts for £15 delivered.

 

Edited by silver1011
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It was last changed by the dealer in March 2014 @ 33,802 miles. The car is now on 77,500 miles.

 

So that filter has done almost 18 months and 43,698 miles.

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  • 2 weeks later...

All the hockey pucks between the jack stands & the body are a really bad idea.  You've introduced a point of slippage.  It's much better to have the stands directly supporting the body or chassis.

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Yeah i agree with brad 1.8T,silver you should really just have the stands in contact with the car,i have a can of fresh diesel that i use to top up the filter housings to lessen the risk of air in the system & to help with starting after a filter change,on my dads x type jag i use a syringe to fill the filter until it comes out the outlet pipe as thats a sealed filter not a element.A friend of mine asked me to change the fuel filter on his kia ceed as the dealer wanted £60 to supply & fit one......ouch! Good write up silver,hopefully will help others that want to have a go themselves. 

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Thanks for all the info and pictures, I managed to change the oil, oil filter and the fuel filter with some help today on my 170 CR.  Easiest bit being the fuel filter and hardest bit was undoing the sump plug!

 

I went with the oil filter you had in the end Silver but it turned out I needed one with a leg so had to go back to Euro Car Parts.

 

I did manage to find the metal curved bit near the wishbone which i put the axel stands underneath but I did take a tyre off to get to the sump and the sump was on unbeliveably tight, I had a bit of a fright at one stage with the car rocking a little.  I had two jacks and an axel stand, the second axel stand I couldn't get it high enough so just left it under.

 

Apart from that I actually took the bracket for the sensor thing off by undoing the screw to get more space and the oil filter was also on really tight.

 

I also found my missing screw for the air filter in the tray that i lost a while ago.

 

I don't think i put the tray back on 100% but think it's too soon to go back under the car.  Next time i'll feel safer with ramps I think, any recommended brands to go with?

 

Oh and I looked in the handbook and it stated 4.0 litres for the oil so that's how much I put in.  All seems well so far, level in dipstick is fine too.  Hope that was okay to do.

Edited by ippo88
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I went with the oil filter you had in the end Silver but it turned out I needed one with a leg so had to go back to Euro Car Parts.

 

I did manage to find the metal curved bit near the wishbone which i put the axel stands underneath but I did take a tyre off to get to the sump and the sump was on unbelievably tight, I had a bit of a fright at one stage with the car rocking a little.  I had two jacks and an axel stand, the second axel stand I couldn't get it high enough so just left it under.

 

Interesting, so the CR170 has a different oil filter (the one I was originally supplied with) to the CR140?

 

Next time you are under the car please take a picture of the curved metal bracket you used to support the axle stands, I couldn't see any under mine anywhere!

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I hear you guys on the advice against using the rubber hockey pucks in-between the axle stands and underside of the car.

 

The reason for using them was I didn't fancy the metal axle stands being in direct contact with the metal bolts on the points I used to sit the car on.

 

As I can only jack one side of the car up at a time it meant that one side of the car would be on an axle stand whilst I jacked up the other side, all the time the bolt is moving in the cup of the axle stand as the car is lifted. I had visions of them shearing off?

 

With the full weight on them the pucks were nicely squashed and the car seemed very stable. I'll try it without them next time though!

 

I guess looking at it the bolt should sit in the U shaped axle stand and therefore not be in contact?

 

Edited by silver1011
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  • 9 months later...

Hmm, T40 for me...

 

There is however every chance a T45 would fit but the T40 was nice and tight.

 

Edited by silver1011
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