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Hello.

 

I am programmer, electronics is only my hobby.

 

I will make photos tommorow, or next day.

 

I start programming in AVR half year ago, but I have some skills. :no:

 

OK.

 

Functions implemented in my computer:

 

Fuel consumption based on injection duration

 

Speed and distance computed from hall sensor in tachometer

 

KWP1281 diagnostic

 

Android application over bluetooth

 

Functions to be implemented in my computer:

 

Exact oil pressure from pressure sender

 

Trippling - comfort blinking

 

Immobilizer emulation

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I recommend creating a new topic for your project. This topic is related to something else.

I also recommend writing your messages without spaces between rows of text. It is annoying to scroll a message full of vertical blanks.

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  • 2 years later...

hi not sure if this topic is still on going as not a post in years <  but its along the lines of info i have bin looking for ? and Ricardo M i have seen your name on a lot of post to do with the electrics ?  and maybe your know what the issue i have may be ? when the key is turned and the glowplug light comes on it then dims in brightness . but with the relay 104  unpluged or the black wire feeding the glowplug ?not connected the light stays bright ? its draining the battery like mad , the yellow wire that gose   to the starter motor has 8.4 v as at the same time the lights dim and the glowplug feed only gets 10,.2 v ? would the yellow wire from the starter and the 12 pin in the ecu be powered the same ? help please sumbods

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morning i have put a transit battery on and the same thing with the dash lights dimming . the fuse box had got a lot of water in side so that was taken out and apart for cleaning ( 5 hours ) and the windscreen sealed inside with all weather silcon  ,out side , then the glass was sealed from the out side . so was all dry . put the dash back in and all worked apart from when i turned  the rear fog lights on the same happend , dash lights started to dim ?as soon as the key turned on . but with the heater plug lead detached it all looks fine . it did have a new starter motor around 2 months back .and thats why i checked the power to the yellow wire ? and there was power to it . so back out with the dash . and looking for clues 

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26 minutes ago, tomsass said:

the fuse box had got a lot of water in side so that was taken out

Other than taking the water out and (maybe) drying the fuse box with a hair drier, did you check what effects had the corrosion on the copper tracks inside? I can show you some nightmare photos related...

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 it came apart in was 4 layers . and i cleaned each copper part with wire wool . it was like a jigsaw puzzle . ( with splinters ) then light spray of wd40 befor putting it back together . but the same problem keeps returning ?  

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Very good thing you cleaned the copper tracks properly.

Next you'll have to take some voltage measurements on battery first thing in the morning as follows:

  • engine stopped, ignition key OFF
  • ignition key ON until the glowplugs light extinguishes
  • engine running at idle
  • engine running at 3,000 rpm.
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morning thats the problem i have when i go to start the engine and all the power drains ? i will see what happens if i try to heat the plugs . and then disconnect the glow plug supply lead . then try to start it ? bit of a fif faf to do but i need to use the truck.  but willing to try any thinks to get it going agen .not sure if the fact the clock and socket stoped working.  just befor the head lights.  they whent one and then the other two days later.then the glow problem .  but will get out and test the battery the way you said .       

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The clock, the dashboard socket, and the interior light get power from battery through fuse 15. Check fuse for continuity and corrosion. Do the same for all fuses in case you didn't get them all out, checked, cleaned, WD40 already.

 

Supplementary here is a diagram to work on in case the problem is not battery related.

WbTyWoH.jpg

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One more thing. If the voltage drop on a known good, well charged battery is excessive, you might have one or more glow plugs failed from age.

 

Premature glow plugs failure can happen too because of:

  1. Excess carbon buildup in the pre chambers. This can cause shorting or overheating of the plug leading to tip burn out.
  2. Glow cycle too long. This could be due to an incorrect relay installed, a sticking relay, or a feedback circuit not turning the relay off soon enough.
  3. Glow relay not turning off. This is not that common but it does happen. It is usually caused by a failure inside the relay. When this happens, you may also notice your battery is not able to charge properly due to the high current drain on your electrical system. To check for this condition, start the engine and after a minute of running test the glow plug circuit with a meter or 12 volt test light. If you have voltage showing up at the wiring connections on the glow plugs it means your relay has NOT turned off and will need to be replaced. 
  4. Incorrect spray pattern of the fuel injectors. This is hard to diagnose but it can be a problem. If your fuel injectors are squirting a large stream of raw fuel this can stress the tips of the glow plugs (because of a too rapid cool down). Imagine if you heated up your glow plugs red hot and then constantly dipped them in cold water. That's right, you would burn out the element.
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There is another possibility of malfunction. From your description my guess is there are still issues with the wiring caused by the flood of the relay box or from other faulty parts. For instance, on hatchbacks it is possible there is a short in the harness between the tailgate and the body of the car. That kind of short circuit could make the rear window heater turn on when key on even when the corresponding switch is not on.

 

What I'm trying to say is that a malfunction of the glow plugs could be a red herring. They are a big electrical load alright but if there is another unknown/unwanted electrical load then the total load is too high for any battery to withstand. Your mission is to check for other parasitic loads.

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morning thanks . that sounds more along the line of what is going on  . as i have taken the clocks out to check the bulbs.  and the trailer turn bulb had blown . as well as a two back lights the two green one over the clock . the other side is ok ? so i will dig around them wires to see if one is earthed agenst sum think ?        

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just had a look along the loom and cud not see any problems . so unpluged the fuse box and tested the coloured plugs for continently to earth . and there are around 35% earthed . is it right to have so many ? with all switches disconnected   

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Two suggestions:

  1. Disconnect negative battery cable when working on electrical system (unless you need to measure voltages or currents) to avoid shorts.
  2. Use a wiring diagram to assess the status of the system. "35% earthed" doesn't sound like a professional diagnose.
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  • 2 weeks later...

well found that the wash wipe switch  was earthing its self out.  so with a new one ready to try agen . but just had a quick check to see if the engine would start . befor putting it all back.  and the yellow wire to the starter motor is earthing its self out or shud i say its got contently with earth ?  and when i measure the power from the neg lead to neg on the battery its 10.36  / 10.35 / 10. 34 and dropping one diget a second  but when i measure the battery from pos to neg its 12.67  not sure what has happend 

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hi not 100% sure .i fit kitchens and bathrooms but i know if there is an earth fault.  then sum think is going to have a connection with the body when it shud not . so find that and that half the job . and as for the reading for the starter motor yellow wire ? thats from it having a  new starter around 4 months back . and just recall sumthink about checking power to that . and the battery ? well if the power is 12.6 from post to post then the reading from earth post to earth wire (disconnected)  wire . is lower and dropping ? then the power is going else where ie  a short ? am i close ? or miles from the mark ? and i know its better to check if its connected to earth than the power .   

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9 hours ago, tomsass said:

i fit kitchens and bathrooms but i know if there is an earth fault.

Ummm... OK...

From my experience a bad earth on Felicia is very, very remote. Moreover, you have to find evidence of heavy corrosion.

10 hours ago, tomsass said:

well if the power is 12.6 from post to post then the reading from earth post to earth wire (disconnected)  wire is lower and dropping ?

What are you talking about? You can't have a voltage drop on a wire disconnected on one side... unless your English doesn't allow me to understand properly what is going on.

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hi ok maybe my way of trying to explane .but will try agen  if i  take the battery  power from   +   side to  -  side  is 12.6  with no earth lead on the battery .but with the + lead on the battery  and the  -  lead off . and then i put the meters black probe on the  -  side of the battery and the red probe of the meter to the   -   lead of the truck  . thats when the reading drops ? hope that makes more sense ? 

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1 hour ago, tomsass said:

hi ok maybe my way of trying to explane. but will try agen

How old are you, Tom?

1 hour ago, tomsass said:

hope that makes more sense ? 

Not really. Maybe taking a photo or recording a movie might help.

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