SE and SE Business DRLs

[Bally]

Sorry to peld for stealing his question but I was going ask anyway, honest! I thought it best to start a new thread for this.

I've got an SE Business estate coming at some point and was thinking about upgrading the halogen DRLs to either a brighter and whiter halogen. Possibly even led if one exists that will be bright enough and not give errors.

Has anyone else upgraded or looked at options?

I had a look at manuals and can't se any mention of what the bulb type even is?

[Coops]

Can't really comment as likewise I don't know the bulb type, but others appear to have changed to LED bulbs with no errors. Mainly reverse and indicator bulbs.

[Rebelred]

We would need to know the bulb type first. I'd presume it would be the same as the Octavia DRL bulb so maybe try that forum .

I upgraded my DRLs to LED on my Superb 2 with bulbs from SuperSkoda as I hated the 'yellow' look. Up grade was really impressive, used to get loads of Taxi Drivers asking me about it. If it is the same bulb as the Octavia then there should be a bulb out there for this

.

[Bally]

We would need to know the bulb type first. I'd presume it would be the same as the Octavia DRL bulb so maybe try that forum .

I upgraded my DRLs to LED on my Superb 2 with bulbs from SuperSkoda as I hated the 'yellow' look. Up grade was really impressive, used to get loads of Taxi Drivers asking me about it. If it is the same bulb as the Octavia then there should be a bulb out there for this

.DRL.jpg

Yeah, I'm not keen on the std 'yellow' look and was hoping that some folks who've had the cars delivered might have thought about changing them.

 

May need to wait until I get the car to find out what type of bulbs are used.

[SJCSE]

Looks like there is no access from rear of headlamp to change D/lamps, headlamp unit may have to come out ...still investigating.

[Coops]

Looks like there is no access from rear of headlamp to change D/lamps, headlamp unit may have to come out ...still investigating.

 

It will be from behind as per SII: see this extract from the latest manual:

 

• Remove the protective caps Band CFig. 270.

• Turn the holder with the bulb in the direction of arrow 1Fig. 271.

• Remove the holder with the bulb in the direction of arrow 2.

• Remove the bulb from the holder in the direction of the arrow 3.

• Insert a new bulb into the connector so that the lug A on the connector snaps into the groove on the bulb.

• Insert the connector with the new bulb into the headlight in the opposite direction to the arrow 2.

• Turn the connector with the new bulb in the opposite direction to the arrow 1until it stops.

• Use the protective caps B and CFig. 270.

 

 

That's for dipped and main beam.

Edited 27 November, 2015 by Coops

[SJCSE]

But we're talking about the driving/side lamp here aren't we ?

[SJCSE]

The Superb III halogen running lamp/sidelamp bulb is a "PW16W "  The best way to gain access is by removing the wheel and dropping the front of the wheel arch liner (about 12 screws) see image.....  https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/B20R8t

 

This exposes the rear of the light unit, the running lamp is hidden behind a thin plastic housing , shown yellow arrow in image https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/m950bQ

 

The plastic is very thin and can be easily cut around the perimeter with a suitable blade , I found a series of "stabs" worked best and left about 10mm uncut to create a hinge,see image https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/Nwoz07  Don't forget to seal it up afterwards !

 

The bulb then simply unplugs ....see  https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/9N178K and https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/94sm93

any replacement bulb diameter must be less than 20mm to fit through the hole.

 

LED PW16W's are not readily available but PW24W's are,with a choice of 30, 40, & 50W... at around 8.5watts consumption are probably going to need a 20ohm resistor to keep the bulb monitoring happy.

I will give them a try and report back ... but in the meantime any further suggestions regarding bulb choice will be welcome.

[Bally]

The Superb III halogen running lamp/sidelamp bulb is a "PW16W " The best way to gain access is by removing the wheel and dropping the front of the wheel arch liner (about 12 screws) see image..... https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/B20R8t

This exposes the rear of the light unit, the running lamp is hidden behind a thin plastic housing , shown yellow arrow in image https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/m950bQ

The plastic is very thin and can be easily cut around the perimeter with a suitable blade , I found a series of "stabs" worked best and left about 10mm uncut to create a hinge,see image https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/Nwoz07 Don't forget to seal it up afterwards !

The bulb then simply unplugs ....see https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/9N178K and https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/shares/94sm93

any replacement bulb diameter must be less than 20mm to fit through the hole.

LED PW16W's are not readily available but PW24W's are,with a choice of 30, 40, & 50W... at around 8.5watts consumption are probably going to need a 20ohm resistor to keep the bulb monitoring happy.

I will give them a try and report back ... but in the meantime any further suggestions regarding bulb choice will be welcome.

WOW! That's a lot of effort to get to the bulbs! I thought my wife's Kia was bad because you have to take the headlamp assembly out but that looks like a breeze compared to the Superb.

Let us know how you get on with bulbs. Now that I know the bulb type will start having a look at what's available, thanks.

[SJCSE]

All the other bulbs are easy access you'll be glad to know , it's just the running lights that are "hidden". Bumper off and headlamps out would be more time consuming...and require headlamp aim resetting afterwards. 

[Pete T]

As it's a filament bulb that will inevitably blow and need replacing that does seem like a ridiculously involved method to access the bulb. Surely there's another way?!

[SJCSE]

I  used black duct tape to reseal the back of the bulb housing  as the area is not exposed to the elements (and there is an air vent just above anyway) therefore if/when further bulb replacement is required it can be done from the engine bay like any other bulb by simply removing the tape, flipping the flap open and re-applying fresh tape afterwards, hence the importance of leaving a section of approx 10mm uncut to form a hinge.

Unlike mine though the hinge would be better placed on the outboard side for easier access. 

They are no more fiddly than the indicator bulbs.

I notice in the owners manual it says " for all other bulbs take to Skoda workshop" so there may even be an official rubber cap available as per the other access points.

The diameter of the side/running light housing is slightly smaller than the indicator rubber though.

I  removed the arch liner to clearly show/photograph the process but I reckon this could be done "in situ" from under the bonnet, without the liner removal, with the right equipment and a steady hand......  

[peld]

yeah don't think i can be bothered with that..................

[SJCSE]

Just thought I'd upload some images of the LED running light conversion , I've completed several long journeys now, no bulb errors whatsoever and no resistors were required.

I Also fitted some Phillips brighter H7 bulbs in the dip beam so the colour temperature matches.

The DRL Led lamps I used were PW24W Cree 50W (with lens) .  

I originally ordered these online from a company called  Horizon LEDs ....but BEWARE ...Like many other customers (I now discover) I have experienced absolutely shocking customer service to a point where I am raising a case with my Debit Card Issuer to try to claim my money back !

 

I Finally got the identical LEDs much cheaper from HQ Auto Lighting in Dorking , ordered 2pm  ...  arrived next morning.  Thank you HQ Auto Lighting !

 

Also, I incorrectly stated on an earlier post that the diameter of the running light housing was smaller than the indicator housing , It's the same,  the rubber indicator closing cap fits perfectly . This is probably what the dealer would use if ever a DRL bulb failed. I haven' checked availability yet but an image is included, if anyone knows a Skoda parts person...... 

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/with/22826208033/

[Pete T]

Just thought I'd upload some images of the LED running light conversion , I've completed several long journeys now, no bulb errors whatsoever and no resistors were required.

I Also fitted some Phillips brighter H7 bulbs in the dip beam so the colour temperature matches.

The DRL Led lamps I used were PW24W Cree 50W (with lens) .

I originally ordered these online from a company called Horizon LEDs ....but BEWARE ...Like many other customers (I now discover) I have experienced absolutely shocking customer service to a point where I am raising a case with my Debit Card Issuer to try to claim my money back !

I Finally got the identical LEDs much cheaper from HQ Auto Lighting in Dorking , ordered 2pm ... arrived next morning. Thank you HQ Auto Lighting !

Also, I incorrectly stated on an earlier post that the diameter of the running light housing was smaller than the indicator housing , It's the same, the rubber indicator closing cap fits perfectly . This is probably what the dealer would use if ever a DRL bulb failed. I haven' checked availability yet but an image is included, if anyone knows a Skoda parts person......

https://www.flickr.com/photos/138313055@N07/with/22826208033/

Thanks for updating, especially the info about the cap. I take it there's a lip that the cap would push over?

You've fitted PW24W but the filament bulb was PW16W? Is that purely for more light output?

Do you have any pics of the LED's lit in the dimmed sidelight mode? Do they dim correctly?

Any close up pics of the LED'S fitted but not illuminated?

Can I also ask which Philips H7 bulbs you've fitted and have they made a noticeable difference to light on the road at night?

Thanks,

Pete

[RickTT]

Looks good SJCSE.

I would welcome anymore photos you have of the car, I have ordered the same colour and estate too.

Thanks

[muddyboots]

All the other bulbs are easy access you'll be glad to know , it's just the running lights that are "hidden". Bumper off and headlamps out would be more time consuming...and require headlamp aim resetting afterwards. 

Bumper off could be quite quick...on a previous Ibiza with HIDS, I could get the bumper off in 10 mins and then just a couple of screws to get the headlights out.

[SJCSE]

As requested 2 more Pics added.....

 

https://flic.kr/p/BbsTNR

https://flic.kr/p/C1z1vg

 

In reply to Pete T's questions.....

 

Yes, they dim on sidelamp and when low beam is switched on, this is really difficult to capture on photograph, so I hope the attached image helps.....  it is very noticeable to the eye when switching though.  

 

The rubber cap has a lip which fits snuggly over the housing , unlike other some makes with fiddly spring clips / locking mechanisms.......Simply clever I guess....

 

I fitted PW24W  because PW16W's in LED are not readily available. The PW bit is the style of connector and the 16W/24W relates to the wattage of the halogen bulb, but this does not really apply to the LED version , for example the PW24W led consumes 8.4 W and has a light output equivalent to a  50W halogen.

Quite how the bulb monitor module doesn't detect this eludes me. It must have a wide margin of error, or the LED has something built-in , please someone enlighten me !

However, the connector on the base of the PW24W has a tiny sliver of plastic which needs removing with a sharp blade, and then they only fit in one way round, but the shape of the base ensures this.

 

I've used Phillips Chrystal Vision H7s (read the legal blurb) which IMO don't provide any more light "throw" but are a whiter light....They are no substitute for Xenon though, which I have enjoyed on previous company cars, but I don't like the "oil Lantern " appearance of halogen.   

[Pete T]

As requested 2 more Pics added.....

https://flic.kr/p/BbsTNR

https://flic.kr/p/C1z1vg

In reply to Pete T's questions.....

Yes, they dim on sidelamp and when low beam is switched on, this is really difficult to capture on photograph, so I hope the attached image helps..... it is very noticeable to the eye when switching though.

The rubber cap has a lip which fits snuggly over the housing , unlike other some makes with fiddly spring clips / locking mechanisms.......Simply clever I guess....

I fitted PW24W because PW16W's in LED are not readily available. The PW bit is the style of connector and the 16W/24W relates to the wattage of the halogen bulb, but this does not really apply to the LED version , for example the PW24W led consumes 8.4 W and has a light output equivalent to a 50W halogen.

Quite how the bulb monitor module doesn't detect this eludes me. It must have a wide margin of error, or the LED has something built-in , please someone enlighten me !

However, the connector on the base of the PW24W has a tiny sliver of plastic which needs removing with a sharp blade, and then they only fit in one way round, but the shape of the base ensures this.

I've used Phillips Chrystal Vision H7s (read the legal blurb) which IMO don't provide any more light "throw" but are a whiter light....They are no substitute for Xenon though, which I have enjoyed on previous company cars, but I don't like the "oil Lantern " appearance of halogen.

Many thanks SJCSE, very helpful.

[Bally]

As requested 2 more Pics added.....

 

https://flic.kr/p/BbsTNR

https://flic.kr/p/C1z1vg

 

In reply to Pete T's questions.....

 

Yes, they dim on sidelamp and when low beam is switched on, this is really difficult to capture on photograph, so I hope the attached image helps.....  it is very noticeable to the eye when switching though.  

 

The rubber cap has a lip which fits snuggly over the housing , unlike other some makes with fiddly spring clips / locking mechanisms.......Simply clever I guess....

 

I fitted PW24W  because PW16W's in LED are not readily available. The PW bit is the style of connector and the 16W/24W relates to the wattage of the halogen bulb, but this does not really apply to the LED version , for example the PW24W led consumes 8.4 W and has a light output equivalent to a  50W halogen.

Quite how the bulb monitor module doesn't detect this eludes me. It must have a wide margin of error, or the LED has something built-in , please someone enlighten me !

However, the connector on the base of the PW24W has a tiny sliver of plastic which needs removing with a sharp blade, and then they only fit in one way round, but the shape of the base ensures this.

 

I've used Phillips Chrystal Vision H7s (read the legal blurb) which IMO don't provide any more light "throw" but are a whiter light....They are no substitute for Xenon though, which I have enjoyed on previous company cars, but I don't like the "oil Lantern " appearance of halogen.   

 

Thanks, that's very helpful and the new bulbs look ace!

[RickTT]

I agree they look good.

Now if only it was a 2 min bulb change !

[Mon55]

Had anyone else with old fashioned headlight units gone to the trouble of trying this replacement of the halogen DRL bulbs? 

 

Also, any other recommendations for tried and tested H7 bulbs for improved (more light) dipped & main beams?

Edited 12 February, 2017 by Mon55

[RickTT]

2 minutes ago, Mon55 said:

Had anyone else with old fashioned headlight units gone to the trouble of trying this replacement of the halogen DRL bulbs? 

 

Also, any other recommendations of tested and tested H7 bulbs for improved (more light) dipped & main beams?

 

No, too much effort - I need to change my headlight bulbs at some point from the stock ones..

[Buttcrack]

I have just had my mechanic carry out the mod to the drl / side lights req wheel removal and inner wheel arch trim peeling back to gain access. Yes i know i have copped out but i have paid my due grovelling on the floor around cars over nearly 50yrs so sue me. Any hoo job done great success and many thanks to ALL those below for their info, rubber indicator caps purchased from local dealer £5.70pr all in. The lamps i ended up using being a Pair Pw24W 50W Cree 6500k LED Bulbs Xenon White DRL Light Canbus from 'car-mod-shop-ltd'  on eBay £12.07, very nice and white and bright with NO error messages. My only issue now is they make my new main headlight lamps which i have just changed look yellow haha, missed a trick here methinks. The new headlight lamps are OSRAM Night Breaker Laser +150% H7 Car Headlight Bulbs x2 (FKA Next Generation) which i know are not led but are much whiter and brighter than the original proper yellow halogens. I have used the Osram night breakers previously and i think this is why i just jumped at them without thinking. I now obvs am thinking about changing the dipped beam at least to H7 led's 6500k to hopefully match the drl / side lights in colour, any ideas anyone who / where etc to purchase from so no error messages / straight swap etc.