Guide for adjusting the valve clearance

[RicardoM]

In this guide you will learn how to adjust the valve clearance. The guide is aimed at the most common engine mounted on Felicia, 1.3 MPI. The procedure is similar for other engine types, but check the Service manual for specific clearance values.

 

Prerequisites

The engine must be cold and the air temperature must be below 20 C.

Remove all spark plugs.

Remove the valve cover.

In order to be able to rotate the engine, jack up the front right wheel and shift in 4th gear. By rotating the front right wheel clockwise by hand, the crankshaft of the engine will rotate easily.

 

Tools needed

Flat screwdriver

11 mm ring wrench

Feeler gauge set

Torque wrench (optional)

 

The "5" method

We will apply the method known as the "5" method for reasons described below.

 

Definition: Valve overlap - we say that the valves overlap when, for a short time, both valves (intake and exhaust) are open. This moment occurs when the exhaust stroke ends and the intake stroke begins. In terms of crankshaft angle of rotation for all Felicia 1.3 engines, the valves overlap for 20 - 39 degrees. We can assess that moment fairly precise for each cylinder by watching the movement of respective rockers. We look for the precise moment when the exhaust rocker is ending to move up and the intake rocker is starting to move down simultaneously.

 

So let's do it!

Rotate the crankshaft until:

Cylinder 4 valves overlap --> Adjust valves clearance on cylinder 1

 

Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees until:

Cylinder 2 valves overlap --> Adjust valves clearance on cylinder 3

 

Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees until:

Cylinder 1 valves overlap --> Adjust valves clearance on cylinder 4

 

Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees until:

Cylinder 3 valves overlap --> Adjust valves clearance on cylinder 2

 

We see now why the method is called the "5" method. The sum of the cylinder numbers for overlapping and adjusting is always 5 (4+1, 2+3, 1+4, 3+2).

 

The process is shown in detail in the figure below.

 

 

Adjustment

Insert the ring wrench over the locking nut of the rocker and unscrew it half a turn. Insert the corresponding feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve stem (see photo below). Rotate the screw with the screwdriver until the feeler gauge moves with a slight drag. Keep the screwdriver still and lock the nut with the ring wrench. Optionally torque the nut at 15 Nm with a torque wrench. Repeat the process to all eight valves. Then rotate the engine two turns and recheck all eight valves again.

 

 

Assemble everything in reverse order.

[Phil-E]

Another top tip... don't do what I did and leave the feeler blade in there;

 

 

 

Took it for a drive and it chewed the blade off... it was fine though! Ooops!

[areed]

Very useful, thanks for posting! I wonder though, how can you use a torque wrench on the nuts while still holding the screw still ?

[RicardoM]

I wonder though, how can you use a torque wrench on the nuts while still holding the screw still ?

After the nut is locked with a moderate force using the ring wrench, remove the wrench and the screwdriver. Use the torque wrench to further lock the nut at 15 Nm.

 

By the way, I was prompted to write this guide by your worries expressed in your head job topic.

[RicardoM]

Another top tip... don't do what I did and leave the feeler blade in there;

Ouch... So that's why they count the instruments and the sponges after a surgery operation...

Edited 7 December, 2015 by RicardoM

[Bulti]

Nice write-up!  One more quiet running Felicia.

[faraj4]

hello , and thanks for the nice guide .

unfortunatly i broke one of the adjusting screws , and i could not take it out to replace it .

i had to change the whole rocker arm shaft with all components attached to it , but when unscrewd the two head sylinder bolts , water came out of bolts place , is it a problem??? should i worry after placing the bolts back ???

[xyzal]

My Fabia has lifter tick of course so I'll try adjusting this. Thanks.

 

I have one question though. Haynes says "Back off the adjusters until there is some clearance between them and the valve stem, then turn the adjusters clockwise until they just contact the valve stems. From this point, turn the adjusters clockwise a further two turns each, then tighten the locknuts".

 

Here it says to tighten only until there is a bit of resistance on the feeler gauge, then tighten the locknut.

Which one do I listen to?

Edited 9 December, 2021 by xyzal

[KenONeill]

8 hours ago, xyzal said:

Which one do I listen to?

Neither, because this guide is for Favorit/Felicia 1.3 litre, not for the Fabia. And Haynes are, as usual, talking through an orifice normally covered by their trousers!

[AnnoyingPentium]

6 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

And Haynes are, as usual, talking through an orifice normally covered by their trousers!

 

I've never had anything useful from a Haynes manual besides profit selling them on eBay!

[xyzal]

My Fabia has nearly the same engine, 1.4 MPi so does the guide not apply for me too?

[KenONeill]

3 minutes ago, xyzal said:

My Fabia has nearly the same engine, 1.4 MPi so does the guide not apply for me too?

NO! It's a completely different engine.

[xyzal]

Thanks, so then what guide should I use to adjust the valves?

[Breezy_Pete]

I think this is the official Skoda procedure: Skoda Workshop Manuals > Fabia Mk1 > Drive unit > 1.0/37; 1.4/44; 1.4/50 kW MPI engine > Engine cylinder head, valve gear > Repairing cylinder head > Basic setting of hydraulic valve clearance compensation (workshop-manuals.com)

Not familiar with this at all so don't ask me to explain anything about it!

 

I believe the engine mechanicals are very similar to the Felicia 1.3 though, from what I've heard. Compare what's in the link to what Ricardo has written, and Haynes for that matter, which in my experience is usually written in much clearer language than the translated official VW/Skoda stuff. 

[KenONeill]

13 hours ago, xyzal said:

Thanks, so then what guide should I use to adjust the valves?

Apparently the 1.4l has hydraulic tappets which don't require regular adjustment. They can, however, take a little time to get full pressure with old oil and a cold engine, so is an oil change due? Have your considered using a thinner (lower W number) oil? I used 5W-30 in a Citroen ZX 1.4, and the oil light went out before the engine actually even fired on the first start of the day.

[xyzal]

Thanks Wino. You always come in clutch!

@KenONeill, I did change the oil just recently with the same oil. Castrol Magnatec 10w40. The engine runs great, it's a bit slugdy but it's getting cleaner with oil changes and engine flushes.

The oil pressure sensor used to be broken and was on all the time, after changing it with a brand new one, the oil pressure warning comes out randomly, but very rarely. Like once a month maybe. if at all

Nevertheless, I get lifter tick even after long roadtrips (most noticeable at idle. So loud), so I think they might need to be checked at least, see if they are kinda loose.

Edited 10 December, 2021 by xyzal

[KenONeill]

4 hours ago, xyzal said:

Nevertheless, I get lifter tick even after long roadtrips (most noticeable at idle.

More likely it's your sludge then. This is one of the few situations where a flushing oil might be worthwhile, but read the instructions several times before using it.