Jump to content

Recommended Posts

So at around 20,000 miles and just after the first service, I decided to go and hunt the air filter housing a take a look at the condition of the filter.

 

Bear in mind the change interval should be in the region of 40-60k depending on the car.

 

So I had a look at first thing was the leaves and debris on the underside of the filter. Yep, doing it's job, because there was straw, a whole leaf, lots of dandelion bits and other assorted cruft in there.

Along with that plenty of dirt and debris trapped in the filter itself.

 

IMG_20170207_114754729.jpg

 

IMG_20170207_120632.jpg

 

It's not too bad and a hoover would probably have sufficed, however since I was in there anyway, I figured I might as well put a new one in (OEM paper one) as they're relatively cheap still.

On a short drive the MPG is up (but that doesn't mean much) and the car seems a little more willing (Although that's largely psychological I am sure).

A long drive to come, so I'm sure that will make any difference more obvious.

 

So if you've done over 20k miles and not at least cleaned the filter housing out and given the filter a hoover, do it.

If you fancy spending £15 on a new filter, you might as well too.

 

Not expensive and if it does genuinely gain you a just couple of MPG, then it pays for itself over 20,000 miles.

I imagine if past experience is anything to go by, that leaving it to 40k, will cost you a lost more than the cost of the filter in extra fuel used.

 

Either way, worth a hoover for a few minutes and a new one if you're that way inclined.

 

Part number on the original is 5Q0 129620B (MANN FILTER - Made in Germany). The car is a 2.0 TDI CR 150

Edited by cheezemonkhai
Pictures and part number
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, MoggyTech said:

I replace these cheap air filters at 10K miles, expecting 60K from an air filter is crazy.

 

I still agree with you, but these days I think on every major service is fine. On the previous MK2, it was visually clean still at 10k and only at 15k where it started to look a little grubby.

So I figure between 15 and 20k miles is a reasonable compromise and also if people are paying for a major service, they can ask for the air filter for not much more at the same time.
 

At £15 they're not change it every time you're under the bonnet cheap any more, but certainly not (in my opinion) worth waiting any more than 20k for.

I do understand that some people may rather not, and at that point I'd at least clear out the debris from the box.

 

Totally with you on the 60k is mad, but that works for fleet service costs. It's no wonder you see so many older cars belching out black clouds of dirt, and a simple change of filter makes a huge difference.

At the end of the day, even the "performance" filters claim you should clean them every 40k miles or more frequently, so how a piece of paper can last 60k while still filtering and not affecting air flow, is a touch beyond me.

Edited by cheezemonkhai
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So a quick update...

 

I've not done a few trips and achieving the high 50's is much easier than it was.

Before the autobahn would get you into the mid 40's now it's the low 50's.

 

Also worth mentioning that the UK 70ish is now achieving high 50's rather than low 50's.

Say just getting 52 has become easily getting 57mpg.

 

Now bearing in mind the lower figures are from a very extended period of driving, it would suggest to me that making sure there are no leaves etc in your air box and changing the filter is well worth it.

On the MK3 it's going to be an every year job from now on as even if I hand the car back, it'll save me the money in fuel and also help the general drivability.

 

Not a surprise to be honest, but just a bit of anecdotal evidence, to help people who might want to look at things and decide if they want to bother.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

VAG 5Q0 129 620 B (MANN C30005) is same filter model as for the VRS. I change mine every year as it is a very cheap part and very easy to do yourself. You only need a T25 driver bit to unfasten the airbox and a set of large grips to loosen the jubilee clip on the air hose. I do not notice any performance or economy improvements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Newbie question but I don't suppose you can provide any pics on how to change the filter? I had a look the other day and I could see the 2 hoses with the clips but can't see any screws etc to unfasten the airbox. I admit it was only brief look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can post some pics at the weekend (too dark when I get home from work). There are 8x T25 screws placed around the outer lip of my VRS airbox. They can be seen and reached easily, and you do NOT have to disconnect the outlet hose if you prefer not to - you can simply lift the lid of the airbox and replace the filter with the hose still attached. There is only one hose as the inlet is ducted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a picture of my VRS airbox. You need a T25 driver bit to loosen the 8x (yellow) screws. This will allow you to lift the lid and replace the airfilter. You can also loosen the hose clip (red) to make complete removal of the lid possible, but this isn't necessary to replace the filter.

5gySmWE.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 torx screws seems a bit overkill when all it needs is a couple of plastic clips or even a spring metal clips to hold the lid on?

Still it is what it is and compared to the total impossible placement of regularly serviced items I have seen on other brands I guess it is not so bad.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is an easy-replace item, but 8x torx screws is the same as 1x (or 20x) if you do not have a T25 driver. Clips are nice, but manaufacturers do not like the owner self-servicing. Make it too easy and people would not use Dealers or official parts anymore. Topping up oil, coolant and washer-fluid is all we are allowed to do. You cannot even replace a dead-battery without having to have it coded.

Edited by Orville
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry for the late reply. This is mine, had a good look over it and there are no screws. I did notice 4 clips.
I can release the one in the bottom left corner but there rest.... almost snapped my fingers off lol.

20170305_133457068_iOS.jpg

20170305_133501873_iOS.jpg

 

Also, there is this pipe/tube next to the oil cap which is connecting from the filter box to the engine. Seems that if I lift the top cover off then this will be coming with it.

20170305_133512081_iOS.jpg

Edited by Gazlar83
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Air filter change for 1.4 TSI

 

 

1 hour ago, Yaumeister said:

Anyone else can shed any light on opening the air filter box on the 1.4? I too am struggling to open it to replace the filter.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems that there is 2 types of filter can be purchased for the vRS.

 

One comes with a pre-filter which states that it`s for colder climates this and the other one which was already mentioned by the OP this

 

What really is the difference between the 2?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I do live in colder climates, but have never seen or heard of air filter for colder climate.

And my 2016 Octavia dont have it.

I would understand if they fit it in dusty climate, but cold?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/20/2017 at 20:41, norsko said:

I do live in colder climates, but have never seen or heard of air filter for colder climate.

And my 2016 Octavia dont have it.

I would understand if they fit it in dusty climate, but cold?

 

I think the gauze pre-filter is there to deal with snow and ice particles. The paper element can deal with dust, just not snow. I don't think much water tends to get to the filter as it has got to go a bit 'uphill' in the filter box, but snow and ice particles can get carried to the face of the filter.

 

I think the idea is the gauze catches the snow and when it melts it simply drips into the bottom of the filter box and out of the drain hole.  

 

It is adding an (admittedly small) layer of resistance to the intake but I have used them in the past as the gauze pre-filter works well with leaves and other bigger stuff. Instead of finding them wedged between the the folds of the filter, they are just lying in the bottom of the filter box. Although sometimes that does block the drain holes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.