Recall on diesel cooling issue?

[bris24]

Hi Kaimes,

Thank you again for your comments.  I carried out an air and fuel filter change on the car today so had a chance to look for the coolant pump and it's electrical connector.  However I couldn't identify the connector or even the pump.  Can you give guidance on how to find the pump and connector.  Maybe you have a photograph which shows the positions?

Regards

[bris24]

Edited 17 March, 2020 by bris24
Photo inserted twice!

[Kaimes]

Hi Bris24,

 

Ah yes, I should have mentioned how to find the water pump, it is quite well hidden. I did mean to photograph it, though I doubt it would help much in practice.

 

To see it, as a minimum you need to remove the air filter inlet duct (lower left in your picture), but better to remove the complete air filter assembly for improved access. Then it is under what I presume is the high pressure fuel pump, middle left in your picture. You probably need a mirror to get a good view. Release the connector by pressing serrated latch at back, while pulling gently (largely working blind). Once it is unplugged, the connector can be pulled into direct view. If replacing the water pump with the Gates version, you would need to transfer the solenoid to the new water pump, and refit the connector to it.

 

Should you need to release the contacts from the connector body, remove the cable boot, then pull the hairpin retainer out sideways. Pull the wires gently to get the contacts out. Best work over a suitable small tray as you will never find anything you drop!

[bris24]

Hi Kaimes,

Thanks for the comments and guidance on finding the coolant pump.  I hope to get to have a look at my daughter's car next week and will try disconnecting the electrical connector and see what happens,

[bris24]

Hi Kaimes,

I have now finally had a chance to look at my daughter's car again.  I removed the air filter box and inlet duct and have (i believe) found the pump electrical connector. See photo below.  It is very difficult to access to release.  Any tips on how you managed to depress the latch and pull on the connector to remove .   Am I correct in thinking the latch to press is to the rear of the red part and the red part is removed?

Regards

 

 

[Kaimes]

Hi bris24,

Yes, that is the latch, and as you say fairly inaccessible. However, it does release easily, and I used a screwdriver to press it in while pushing on the loop of cable with a finger. As so ofter happens these days, if you get your hand in, you can no longer see what you are doing.

Alternatively, you might be able to get a second (flat blade) screwdriver in the join of the brown part and the black cable boot to apply disconnection pressure.

Keep us posted on progress.

 

[bris24]

Hi Kaimes,

Thanks again for quick helpful reply.  I will have another go at disconnecting the connector in the next few days.  Whilst the car has not been driven much lately the pump does seem to be behaving itself but I just want to be prepared with a solution if it does start causing real problems.  So my plan is to  disconnect the connector and see if any fault codes are produced.  Also I want to see how long the car takes to warm up with it disconnected.  With the pump working as intended it takes about 3 miles for the engine to indicate 90C on the gauge.

[Kaimes]

Hi Bris24,

 

I expected the engine to take longer to heat up, and it does feel like it is longer to reach 90C. However, I have not noticed much change in the heater, which now gives useful output from about 60C on the gauge. It may be that when the pump closure is working there is no flow through the heater until it reaches 90C.

 

If possible, you could record before and after behaviour. Mine failed in the summer, and I had taken little notice of previous warm up behaviour.

[lowedb]

With those sealed connectors, it helps an awul lot if you push the connector further on, before pressing the release tag and pulling it away. Be careful using screwdrivers, they can too easily weaken or break the tab.

Edited 13 May, 2020 by lowedb

[bris24]

Hi, I have now disconnected the pump connector. As suggested I used a long screwdriver to depress the tab and the connector was then easy to remove.  To gain access the air filter box and the air vent at the top of the rad need to be removed.

I drove the car with the connector disconnected and it took about the same time/distance to show a temp of 90C. following the same route.  No warning lights came on. I then did a diagnostics scan and this gave the following fault "P199E00 - Cylinder head coolant valve Open circuit  static".  I then reconnected the pump connector and put everything back.  And this is when i found I had jammed the radiator fan and blew the fuse as per other post!!  This is all sorted now,fuse replaced and  fan works fine.

A few days later I was driving the car around and the temperature gauge went up to just over a hundred.  I stopped the car keeping the engine running and opened the bonnet.  The radiator fan was going full pelt but the radiator and hoses were cold.  This implied to me that the sleeve on the coolant pump was stuck in the closed position.  I drove off and the temperature came down to 90C and stayed there.  I stopped again and opened the bonneet and this time the rad fan was not operating and but the radiator and hoses were hot.  So the pump sleeve must have retracted.

I have now disconnected the pump connector and left it disconnected and the car runs fine with no overheating. 

[Kaimes]

Hi bris24,

Thanks for the info. It looks like the sleeve is now fully retracted, so the engine should be safe from overheating. The continuity of the solenoid does appear to be monitored by the ECU, but hopefully this won’t result in a performance restriction when it is not connected.

 

The Gates replacement pump seems to provide a place to attach the solenoid, so would avoid the ECU flagging a fault. Alternatively as already suggested, a resistor can be used to simulate the solenoid coil, but needs ingenuity to find somewhere to put it.

 

NB avoid shorting the wires – the ECU might be damaged!

[bris24]

Hi Kaimes,

Thanks for reply.  I understand that you have been running your car with the coolant pump solenoid discconnected for some time now (maybe a year plus) and not experienced any noticeable issues with the car?  So I will wait until the cambelt change is due and probably fit a Gates (sleeve free) pump then.  For info a friend of mine recently had his cambelt and pump changed on an Octavia with this type of pump and the replacement pump with the sleeve feature cost about £150.

[Kaimes]

Hi bris24,

 

Yes, solenoid disconnected for 11 months, and temperature has never exceeded 90C on gauge.

 

The plan to replace with a Gates pump during cam belt change is very sensible. From various posts on this thread it is likely the OEM pump design has still not been properly fixed, with a fair risk to write off the engine if you are unlucky.

[KME]

Hi i have a mk3 2015 diesel with a 105 hp cuta engine.

I would like to fit the gates belt and pump kit, i particularly like the idea of doing away withè the sliding ring.

But i can't seem to track down the correct kit for my engine, becaus i have the cuta engine the kit that I'm directed to says Seat and Audi but not Fabia. How can i confirm it's the one i need.

I also get redirected to a VW kit, but thats unclear weather it comes with a sliding ring or not.

                                           HELP

[bris24]

Hi,

I have not had the cam belt changed yet so haven't tried to source a pump without a sleeve.  However I would guess that a pump for a Seat or Audi for the same engine code would be the same for a Fabia.  I suppose it is a matter of talking to a good independent parts supplier.  Often they can get one in and you can have a look at it.

Let us know how you get on.  Also if you plan to do it yourself a step by step set of instructions would be useful.

Regards

[KME]

55 minutes ago, bris24 said:

Hi,

I have not had the cam belt changed yet so haven't tried to source a pump without a sleeve.  However I would guess that a pump for a Seat or Audi for the same engine code would be the same for a Fabia.  I suppose it is a matter of talking to a good independent parts supplier.  Often they can get one in and you can have a look at it.

Let us know how you get on.  Also if you plan to do it yourself a step by step set of instructions would be useful.

Regards

 

[KME]

Yes i have seen and retrieved information from threads and leads from this forum, i have been told that my low milage car should have it's timing belt changed as it's 5 years old. I picked this up from finding out about the over heating problem my car had developed, so rather than go down the wiring hack to fix the problem.  So if i need to change the cam belt I'm better off changing the pump as well, but on spending this kind of money to get my local garage to do this work. I want longevity to the repair as i plan to keep the car for another 5 years.

So when there is more than one way to fix a problem, i want to be on top of all the information so i can make a informed decision. 

[Zeezee]

Similar issue with the Polo 1.4 TDi Bluemotion. Car has only 18K on the clock and it’s a late 2014 model. They have the same engines at the Fabia MK111. 1.4 TDi CUSB 90 BHp I have disconnected the solenoid plug. This is how it look . 

[Zeezee]

Fingers crossed 🤞🏼 let’s see if the hack works  

[bris24]

Let us know how it goes.

 

[Zeezee]

Took it to the motorway and no heating issues whatsoever. Seems like the hack worked ! Thanks guys. Also contacted VW and they said there’s no recall on the  Polos from their end for the water pump but there’s a recall for the fuel pump and some reprogramming . 

[Zeezee]

I took to a longer route on a motorway yesterday and surprisingly the car’s temperature went down for a while on the motorway and then raised back to 90 after a short while . Please see the picture. Could this mean one could have issues in winters on motorway driving ?? Let’s wait and see 

PS: I was in the passenger seat before anyone points out taking photos while driving 😛

[bris24]

Hi,

I have found quite a good video which shows a faulty coolant pump being replaced by a non-switchable pump.  Also demonstrates that the sleeve gets stuck in the position that shuts off the pump.