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Race chip throttle response


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I just installed my one on my 206 (280) sportline  last night too. It does make the car feel more responsive, it gives the effect of the car being lighter like a small car acceleration off the line. The feeling is very similar to when I went from stock -> APR stage 1 on my Audi A4 previously. Pretty good value for a pleasant "perceived" effect on the car.

Tested the different settings available (Eco, Sport, Race). Current setting used for daily will most likely to be sport I. Sport II is also okay if it is used in a more regional area and not in stop / start traffic a lot. 

Edited by cyberkank
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6 hours ago, facet edge said:

I got the correct control and I have been running it for a few weeks to see how it went. Yes, it does sharpen the throttle response which is gratifying. The car certainly feels more responsive.

I must admit that I still have a hesitation on entering roundabouts etc. but it does seem less. I don't think you would be able to get rid of it completely as it seems to be the dsg sorting itself out.

When I sent the wrong one back RaceChip said they would refund the postage of up to £15. It cost £25 to send it back and UPS made a right mess of that. It was at the docks in Newhaven for a week and then got involved in an accident on the continent. A two or three day trip took over two weeks!

I email RaceChip saying I needed  more compensation than they were offering and they paid me in full without question, so if anyone else is contemplating using RaceChip I can recommend them.  

 

Ouch... £25?! I sent back mine after it developed a fault last year and it cost £11 via ParcelForce for 48 hour delivery.

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9 hours ago, Rainmaker said:

 

Ouch... £25?! I sent back mine after it developed a fault last year and it cost £11 via ParcelForce for 48 hour delivery.

I looked at parceforce and they quoted £20.94 so as out as sent by UPS and I had the box from them I sent it back the same way.

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  • 1 month later...
1 hour ago, BillyJim said:

Every penny (or cent) as far as I'm concerned.

 

OK so just to check (I have read the threads but looking for additional confirmation)... this mod does not add additional HP/power to the car but it will remove the lag I experience when pushing on... perhaps making the response quicker or more readily available without having to press the accelerator as far down / wait for the car to change down gears?

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BillyJim said:

"Every penny (or cent) as far as I'm concerned."

 

Been running one in my 190 TDi L&K DSG since Easter this year and absolutely agree with BillyJim.

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9 hours ago, Rustynuts said:

It magnifies throttle input meaning you don't have to press the pedal as far as before. If you prefer, you can just press the pedal quicker and achieve the same result.

I'm guessing you've not actually experienced what the Superb III owners have been complaining about because, not meaning to sound rude, you're wrong. You don't and can't achieve the same result by simply pressing the loud pedal further or quicker. The underlying issue lies with a delay in the engine responding after depressing the accelerator and this time delay is the same no matter how far or quick you depress the accelerator. I don't know why this happens but I've long suspected it's tied in to complying with EURO 6. It's certainly not turbo lag nor DSG mapping, which are the usual culprits taking the blame.

 

This lag occurs with DSG equipped Superb III most noticeably when pulling away from a standstill where the engine revs are starting from tick-over and also when slowing for a junction or hazard, allowing the revs to drop, then applying throttle.

 

If you follow your suggestion from standstill you will simply get waiting-waiting-waiting-take off like a scalded cat. It's even more dangerous in the slowing down example because once you see it's safe to proceed and you apply throttle to accelerate and clear the hazard you find the engine revs are actually still falling and the car still slowing before the engine suddenly responds.

 

The Throttle Response is obviously far more sophisticated than those original 'Mercedes Boxes' which did indeed simply amplify the fly-by-wire signal. The Throttle Response results in virtually instant response from the engine to your throttle application and that isn't solely down to amplification of the signal. The addition of the Throttle Response means the car behaves exactly how you'd expect the engine to respond to the throttle in any car. It's just a shame we have to rely on a third-party utility to get our DSG Superb III's to behave 'normally'. There was no such lag with my Euro 5 DSG Superb II.

 

Without the Throttle Response fitted you can still improve the throttle/engine response from standstill by selecting Sport or, while negotiating hazards, using triptronic or flappy paddles, but if I wanted to be constantly shifting the gear selector I would have chosen a car with a manual gearbox (though that's not actually an option with the 280).

Edited by BillyJim
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9 hours ago, CTRob said:

 

OK so just to check (I have read the threads but looking for additional confirmation)... this mod does not add additional HP/power to the car but it will remove the lag I experience when pushing on... perhaps making the response quicker or more readily available without having to press the accelerator as far down / wait for the car to change down gears?

No, it does not alter horsepower.

Yes, no matter which setting (see below) it removes the lag between pedal and engine response.

How far you need to depress the pedal is determined by the settings. In the case of the RaceChip unit on my 280 (which also has a tuning box fitted) the lowest 'Eco' settings feel like you're pressing on a wet sponge, the middle 'Sport' settings will give you the kind of travel/response you would normally expect, the highest 'Sport+' settings will make both the pedal and engine highly responsive. That's with DSG in D. Select S with the highest Sport+ setting and it's just insane - it's like having launch control permanently engaged.

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43 minutes ago, dg360 said:

Does the VCDS tweak to enable Audi throttle response make any appreciable difference?

 

In my opinion, no, night and day. in simple terms all this box is doing is reducing the travel needed to get to wide open throttle, which has the effect of increasing the responsivness of throttle inputs, and you can tune that level of assistance to suite your needs and style.

 

It's like having a short throw gear linkage, but for your throttle.

 

I tried the Audi VCDS Tweak, and still wasn't impressed. I've had my DTUK Pedal Box (Similar device) Fitted to my MK3 Octavia vRS and my current Superb Sportline 280, and I love it, I would not want to be without it. I'm selling my DTUK pedal box soon as I'm ordering the updated Racechips unit with smart phone support.

 

There will be nay sayers, the "Just push your foot harder" brigade, and this is true, you can, but I prefer not to, I like the smaller throttle inputs and the greater degree of response and control I get. I switched mine off just to compare, and the 280's throttle felt like planting my foot in a bowl of blancmange. I let my mate drive it to, as he was sceptical, with the pedal box deactivated he thought the car was OK, with it activated and on Sport Mode he was grinning like a Cheshire cat.

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3 hours ago, fluffmeister said:

 

In my opinion, no, night and day. in simple terms all this box is doing is reducing the travel needed to get to wide open throttle, which has the effect of increasing the responsivness of throttle inputs, and you can tune that level of assistance to suite your needs and style.

 

It's like having a short throw gear linkage, but for your throttle.

 

I tried the Audi VCDS Tweak, and still wasn't impressed. I've had my DTUK Pedal Box (Similar device) Fitted to my MK3 Octavia vRS and my current Superb Sportline 280, and I love it, I would not want to be without it. I'm selling my DTUK pedal box soon as I'm ordering the updated Racechips unit with smart phone support.

 

There will be nay sayers, the "Just push your foot harder" brigade, and this is true, you can, but I prefer not to, I like the smaller throttle inputs and the greater degree of response and control I get. I switched mine off just to compare, and the 280's throttle felt like planting my foot in a bowl of blancmange. I let my mate drive it to, as he was sceptical, with the pedal box deactivated he thought the car was OK, with it activated and on Sport Mode he was grinning like a Cheshire cat.

 

I agree the racechip throttle response is the best upgrade (mod) you can get for your superb 280. The car feels a lot more peppy with it, seems like it has shed hundreds of kilos of weight. 

Currently using sport 1 and sport 2 mode for everyday driving. Installation was a breeze, takes about 5 minutes. It is a no brainer. 

The fact people say "Push your pedal harder" to get the same effect is definitely not really applicable in practical sense. Sure you can mash the pedal like a nut job to get faster acceleration, but it is definitely not very practical and certainly wont get rid of the throttle response lag.

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7 hours ago, dg360 said:

Does the VCDS tweak to enable Audi throttle response make any appreciable difference?

 

 

It does help on most cars but it is only about half way between std and the pedal boxes

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I agree with everyone here singing the praises of the Racechip throttle response. Fitted one around 4 weeks ago and for $300 it was the best bang for your buck you can spend. Owning 500-600hp V8's over many years, I could never get the same "response" from them for a $300 investment. Don't procrastinate... just do it!!

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  • 5 months later...
On 7/6/2017 at 13:23, cyberkank said:

 

I agree the racechip throttle response is the best upgrade (mod) you can get for your superb 280. The car feels a lot more peppy with it, seems like it has shed hundreds of kilos of weight. 

Currently using sport 1 and sport 2 mode for everyday driving. Installation was a breeze, takes about 5 minutes. It is a no brainer. 

The fact people say "Push your pedal harder" to get the same effect is definitely not really applicable in practical sense. Sure you can mash the pedal like a nut job to get faster acceleration, but it is definitely not very practical and certainly wont get rid of the throttle response lag.

Just ordered the Racechip XLR throttle response thingy. Downloaded the manual to get an idea of what it takes to fit it. Noticed several posters saying it's an easy job. Don't suppose anybody's got any pictures (connections etc)? Any problems with the 'preparation' stuff ("With the driver’s door open, lock the car. Wait about 10 minutes before starting Step 2, as all current consumers must have switched themselves off. For cars with “Keyless Go”: after locking the car, place the key out of signal range (about 10 m from the car). If an alarm system is fitted: disable the alarm before starting installation.")?

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8 hours ago, YTT said:

For cars with “Keyless Go”: after locking the car, place the key out of signal range (about 10 m from the car). If an alarm system is fitted: disable the alarm before starting installation.")?

Good advice - not :sadsmile:. How are you expected to get into your locked car?

I just leave the driver's door open so it can't lock nor activate the alarm, then twiddle my thumbs for 10 minutes.

.

DSC00206a.thumb.jpg.b40507444c561f23fe8b76e308bd6fdb.jpg

 

Open the small cubby drawer, ensure it's empty, then gently pull it further out and it will go beyond the lip/stop, literally falling wide open (the lip/stop is quite flexible).

This will now give you unfettered access from above to the connector located at the top of the accelerator pedal without any need to become a contortionist.

There's only the one connector at top of the accelerator pedal so you can't really go wrong. It has a catch that you slide to unlock the connector and then you just pull the connector up to remove it. Do not pull on the cable.

Plug one of the RaceChip connectors into the accelerator pedal and the other into the cable you removed. They will only fit one way so again you can't go wrong. Slide the catch on both connectors to lock them.

 

Decide where you want to mount the device. I initially fed the cable under the loose forward edge of the footwell carpet and mounted the control unit between the steering wheel console and the infotainment.

During warm weather the glue on the rear of the velcro patches often became soft and pliable and I would find the controller, with the velcro, sitting in the footwell.

As a result I moved it to the cubby drawer as shown above. There is plenty of room for the cable to feed through and I tucked the excess behind the loose front edge of the footwell carpet.

I have the previous version which does not have the additional box of electronics that the XLR8 has, so you'll need to find somewhere to locate it that doesn't foul the pedals.

 

Push the cubby drawer back in so it goes back beyond the lip/stop.

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3 hours ago, BillyJim said:

Good advice - not :sadsmile:. How are you expected to get into your locked car?

I just leave the driver's door open so it can't lock nor activate the alarm, then twiddle my thumbs for 10 minutes.

 

 

Did you miss the bit about leaving the drivers door open and then locking the car?

 

11 hours ago, YTT said:

Just ordered the Racechip XLR throttle response thingy. Downloaded the manual to get an idea of what it takes to fit it. Noticed several posters saying it's an easy job. Don't suppose anybody's got any pictures (connections etc)? Any problems with the 'preparation' stuff ("With the driver’s door open, lock the car. Wait about 10 minutes before starting Step 2, as all current consumers must have switched themselves off. For cars with “Keyless Go”: after locking the car, place the key out of signal range (about 10 m from the car). If an alarm system is fitted: disable the alarm before starting installation.")?

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16 hours ago, BillyJim said:

Good advice - not :sadsmile:. How are you expected to get into your locked car?

I just leave the driver's door open so it can't lock nor activate the alarm, then twiddle my thumbs for 10 minutes.

.

DSC00206a.thumb.jpg.b40507444c561f23fe8b76e308bd6fdb.jpg

 

Open the small cubby drawer, ensure it's empty, then gently pull it further out and it will go beyond the lip/stop, literally falling wide open (the lip/stop is quite flexible).

This will now give you unfettered access from above to the connector located at the top of the accelerator pedal without any need to become a contortionist.

There's only the one connector at top of the accelerator pedal so you can't really go wrong. It has a catch that you slide to unlock the connector and then you just pull the connector up to remove it. Do not pull on the cable.

Plug one of the RaceChip connectors into the accelerator pedal and the other into the cable you removed. They will only fit one way so again you can't go wrong. Slide the catch on both connectors to lock them.

 

Decide where you want to mount the device. I initially fed the cable under the loose forward edge of the footwell carpet and mounted the control unit between the steering wheel console and the infotainment.

During warm weather the glue on the rear of the velcro patches often became soft and pliable and I would find the controller, with the velcro, sitting in the footwell.

As a result I moved it to the cubby drawer as shown above. There is plenty of room for the cable to feed through and I tucked the excess behind the loose front edge of the footwell carpet.

I have the previous version which does not have the additional box of electronics that the XLR8 has, so you'll need to find somewhere to locate it that doesn't foul the pedals.

 

Push the cubby drawer back in so it goes back beyond the lip/stop.

 

Perfect! Just what I needed to know. Thanks very much.

 

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I found the chubby drawer was reluctant to go past the stop. I had to use a trim remove tool to ease it past.

Other than that it's a very quick job, took me a couple of minutes to take it out when I put the car in for a service.

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1 hour ago, facet edge said:

I found the chubby drawer was reluctant to go past the stop. I had to use a trim remove tool to ease it past.

Other than that it's a very quick job, took me a couple of minutes to take it out when I put the car in for a service.

I have my control unit in the same place. I just left it connected when I had the car's first service and it went unmentioned, if not unnoticed.

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+1

I just switch it off on arrival at the dealership though on one occasion I forgot to do so. It's never been commented on and when initially installed it was in plain view.

I also have the tuning box fitted in plain view - when you lift the bonnet - and I use the blanking dongle when it goes back to the dealer so the engine returns to factory default settings and avoids errors showing on the diagnostics machine. Not only have they never commented on it but they were the ones who suggested it as an alternative (warranty unaffected) when I queried remapping (warranty void).

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40 minutes ago, BillyJim said:

+1

I just switch it off on arrival at the dealership though on one occasion I forgot to do so. It's never been commented on and when initially installed it was in plain view.

I also have the tuning box fitted in plain view - when you lift the bonnet - and I use the blanking dongle when it goes back to the dealer so the engine returns to factory default settings and avoids errors showing on the diagnostics machine. Not only have they never commented on it but they were the ones who suggested it as an alternative (warranty unaffected) when I queried remapping (warranty void).

I did think that it wouldn't matter but I know what some dealers are like when it gets to warranty and didn't want to take the chance. :sadsmile:  

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2 hours ago, BillyJim said:

+1

I just switch it off on arrival at the dealership though on one occasion I forgot to do so. It's never been commented on and when initially installed it was in plain view.

I also have the tuning box fitted in plain view - when you lift the bonnet - and I use the blanking dongle when it goes back to the dealer so the engine returns to factory default settings and avoids errors showing on the diagnostics machine. Not only have they never commented on it but they were the ones who suggested it as an alternative (warranty unaffected) when I queried remapping (warranty void).

 

Some years ago I had an acquaintance who worked in the service dept of a main dealer (Ford, I think). I recall him saying that they loved warranty repairs, because they were 'easy money'. The manufacturer reimbursed them for warranty work. In fact, they would go out of their way to find anything that could be put through as a warranty repair. If that's still the case, then I'd imagine the dealership wouldn't give a monkeys if they saw a tuning box. This is an old memory of a throwaway conversation, so feel free to correct me!

Edited by YTT
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