Car Battery Replacement on Skoda Octavia mk3

[Cubic]

Hello everyone,

 

I'm new to the Skoda community and to this forum in particular, so first of all - greetings.

 

I own a 2013 Skoda Octavia mk3, and recently my battery seems to be dying.

 

My question is twofold:

1) Will this battery be good? https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-blue-dynamic-efb/570-500-065

2) while replacing the original battery, is there anything that needs to be configured on the car computer, or is it a matter of just replacing the battery?

 

Thank you for your help.

 

Cheers.

[Cubic]

Anyone?!?

[KenONeill]

I'd happily fit a Varta battery, but don't know if there are settings that get lost during a battery change on an Octy3.

[blueR36]

I would get a Bosch http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-battery/?444770637&0&cc5_993&gclid=CNa4jr-Ts9QCFeEy0wod4eIMhA or thishttp://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Skoda_Octavia_2.0_2013/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-battery/?444771007&1&978dda2776e7f015b2141b73980562bcdb97c089&000020 you do not say which engine you have so   check compatibility, usually if you swap them straight over and not leave it a while settings are fine 

Edited 10 June, 2017 by blueR36

[Cubic]

Hi,

 

Thank you for the comments.

My Octavia has a 1.2 TSI engine.

[wyx087]

May I ask what signs point to your battery is dying?

 

I've 2.0 diesel with stop/start, same year Octavia. I'm finding after 12+ hours of not using the car, it needs more cranks than usual. 2 seconds rather than start straight away. I'm wondering if my battery or glow-plug are on the way out.

 

My previous diesel, a 11 year old Mercedes c220 always (even after 1 month of not using during winter) always starts immediately. Never heard starter motor more than half second. So I'm unsure if it's just a VW engine characteristic or my car's components are failing.

 

 

BTW, that second battery suggested by blueR is quite expensive! In case you are not aware, Skoda UK website states a stop/start battery replacement would only cost £199. £115 without s/s. http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/simply-fixed/default/

Edited 12 June, 2017 by wyx087

[Warrior193]

Hello Cubic, my understanding is that you need to code the serial number of the replacement battery into the cars electronic system so that the battery charging module knows to 'relearn' the charging characteristics of the new battery. The charging module is claimed to be very advanced and the relearning is necessary as the faulty battery (assuming that it in fact was actually faulty) may have been giving misleading information to the charging system. I have seen some forum members say that you can 'invent' a new serial number to enter into the system, using the correct format. Unfortunately, this input requires VCDS to code into the system. I gather that the fault warning lights, that may appear after you replace the battery, will disappear after driving the car for a few miles. 

[Kenny R]

 

[Cubic]

Quote

On 6/12/2017 at 11:20, wyx087 said:

 

May I ask what signs point to your battery is dying?

 

I've 2.0 diesel with stop/start, same year Octavia. I'm finding after 12+ hours of not using the car, it needs more cranks than usual. 2 seconds rather than start straight away. I'm wondering if my battery or glow-plug are on the way out.

 

 

Hi Wyx,

 

The 'Battery Low' sign appeared on the dash. I've also experienced a problem similar to what you describe.

The car would charge the battery properly, but the battery wouldn't hold the charge for very long.

 

Anyways I went to my mechanic and he confirmed the problem is the battery itself, and not some other electrical issue.

 

I ended up buying this battery for the equivalent of about 150 pounds.

https://www.varta-automotive.com/en-gb/products/varta-silver-dynamic-agm/570-901-076

 

By the way, I haven't programmed anything into the car computer after replacing the battery.

How important is it that I do it? Can I get by until my next service call (a few months)?

[Warrior193]

Hello Cubic, advice appears to be divided on the necessity of programming in the serial number of the replacement battery. If there are no error messages regarding the change, and if the new one is charging correctly, everything should be OK - I believe that your car will have the battery condition meter available in the dash display, or you can check the battery voltage with a good digital meter. Important note, the charging voltage is slightly higher with the AGM battery, and should be around 14.7 volts with the engine running. 

[Pilotguy]

I’ve just replaced my battery with the Varta start Stop Plus E39 https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/varta/e39/ £141 delivered next working day. Took about  10 minutes to fit. Had one or two dashboard warnings until I drove round the block, TPMS, Start-stop system & electronic traction control. This one’s an AGM battery and the one I took out was EFB. I haven’t got VCDS to do any recode of the battery serial number. Will try some local garages next week.

Edited 23 July, 2019 by Pilotguy

[PetrolDave]

10 hours ago, Pilotguy said:

This one’s an AGM battery and the one I took out was EFB. I haven’t got VCDS to do any recode of the battery serial number. Will try some local garages next week.

You'll need to get them to change the battery type to AGM, the battery capacity (if it's different) and the serial number (just enter any number that's different!).

 

Without doing that the BMS will still think you have the old battery and MAY disable start/stop and/or turn off some heavy power consumers to protect the old battery

[RIncewindwiz]

Thanks for all the advice on batteris and serial numbers

FYI I went for Yuasa YBX9096  (ebay £128 delivered - 48 hours. 5 year warranty)

 

Checked with Local Skoda dealer who assured me the battery would not work unless serial number and type was entered and they would be happy to do this for £60! (Whatever happened to customer service?).

 

I was sceptical so he went to ask someone and came back to say it would start the car but none of the electronics would work.

 

So I put the battery in in anyway. As predicted by others here the dashboard lit up with error lights but after a trip to Tesco (1000 yards there and back!) everything seemed normal (had to set the tyre pressure warning, change the time but not the date?!)

 

And Auto Stop/Start is working again. All round a great success.

 

If I can find someone with VCDS I'll get the battery detailed entered but otherwise . . . . for £60, that's half a battery!!

 

It worked for me but none of this constitutes advice!!

 

[chris1508]

On 17/11/2019 at 09:30, RIncewindwiz said:

I own and repair taxis and have changed loads of these batteries, octavia, superb 1.6 and 2.0 cr tdi's which due to taxi signs, metres.... not to mention regular short journeys, well lets just say the factory batteries rarely stand the test of time. My battery of choice for vehicles with stop/start is the Exide 096 AGM 70AH. For vehicle without Stop/Start I use 096SE Exide Excell EB712. 

 

When you disconnect or install a new battery you will have a few warning lights on the dash and the clock will need reset. After driving above 15mph and turning the steering these lights will go out. I have never re coded a battery and have never had any issues. 

 

What's more, I often recommend to my customers to disable the stop start feature, especially on taxis as it doesn't really save any fuel but certainly shortens on the life of your battery, alternator and stater motor. My chosen method for disabling the stop/start feature is to disconnect the small plug with two black wires going on to the battery earth terminal. Whats more, if you vehicle is fitted with Stop/Start and you're looking to save money when changing your battery, you can fit a non Stop/Start battery with no ill effects by disabling the Stop/Start feature as described above.

 

I sure some will be horrified at the idea of this but it's practical and it works with the need for recoding etc.

 

On 17/11/2019 at 09:30, RIncewindwiz said:

 

 

On 17/11/2019 at 09:30, RIncewindwiz said:

 

 

[chris1508]

Sorry @RIncewindwiz, 

I didn't mean my post above to look like I was quoting you, haven't got to grips with this sites formatting and replying features yet. 

 

[Rogerboy]

I have an Octavia 3. Needed a battery change.

So I changed it. Simple job.

Afterwards no stop start,  no autostabilisation and no tyre pressure monitor.

So drove 1000 metres.

All fine.

Don't listen to the scare mongers. Just change the battery and drive a short distance and all is well.

I know, I've just done it. Good luck.

[Kenny R]

Here we go amateur/old school mechanics that haven’t a clue how micro hybrid charging and modern BMS work and think that if it still starts after they’ve changed a battery that all is well.

Fact is if a battery is changed on a modern Skoda with stop/ start system then the vehicle requires coding.

Edited 7 December, 2019 by Kenny R

[Rogerboy]

Coding for what. Absolutely everything is working just fine

[PetrolDave]

35 minutes ago, Rogerboy said:

Coding for what. Absolutely everything is working just fine

Are you 100% able to check that the battery isn't being overcharged?

 

Not telling the BMS makes it assume that the old battery is still fitted which means it will keep charging at a higher rate - which won't be good for the new battery since it will be being overcharged.

[Rogerboy]

I cannot answer that. I simply don't know.  The battery rests at 12.6 volts and charges at 14.7. All quite normal and to me the rise in battery voltage will negate the charge automatically without any interference or regulation.

There are no fault codes In the module.

[PetrolDave]

39 minutes ago, Rogerboy said:

I cannot answer that. I simply don't know.  The battery rests at 12.6 volts and charges at 14.7. All quite normal and to me the rise in battery voltage will negate the charge automatically without any interference or regulation.

There are no fault codes In the module.

If it keeps charging at 14.7 then that's overcharging, the charging voltage should only be 14.7 for a short period after starting and then should drop to around 13.5

[Kenny R]

48 minutes ago, Rogerboy said:

I cannot answer that. I simply don't know.  The battery rests at 12.6 volts and charges at 14.7. All quite normal and to me the rise in battery voltage will negate the charge automatically without any interference or regulation.

There are no fault codes In the module.

You’ll find the answers here..

https://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/stop-start-battery-technology-questions-answers/

https://www.thepartsalliance.com/replacing-batteries-on-stop-start-vehicles/

and plenty more if you google, but if you know best.

Also read the micro hybrid bit here..

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/info/technical/micro-hybrid-hybrid-vehicles-explained/

Edited 7 December, 2019 by Kenny R

[Jono]

Hi Guys, 

 

Other than VCDS, are there any other easier/accessible battery coding OBD2 methods? i.e., via phone apps?

 

Failing that, is there any good independent reviews on how necessary recoding *actually* is. I have a suspicion that all the hyperlinks above are at a high risk of (industry-centric) bias. I'm pretty skeptical by nature.

 

I wouldn't be in the least bit surprised if errors and charging characteristics "memory" were very transient and the amazingly smart battery management tech actually learned the new battery properties given a bit of time...

 

I mean, if the battery management software needs such accurate information, how does it cope with mains battery charging? or a car sat discharging for a long period with all it's systems asleep?

 

 

Ta,

[PetrolDave]

20 hours ago, Jono said:

I mean, if the battery management software needs such accurate information, how does it cope with mains battery charging?

When using a mains battery charger you must connect the negative lead to the bodywork NOT directly to the battery terminal so the BMS is still monitoring the charge going into the battery.

 

The BMS makes the, very valid, assumption that the ability of a battery to hold/take charge can only get worse with age, so if you don't tell the BMS that a new battery has been fitted it will still treat it as having the hold/take charge ability of the old one. So the new battery will never get properly charged, and the BMS will continue to shed non-essential loads as it did with the old battery fitted.

Edited 10 January, 2020 by PetrolDave

[Jono]

3 hours ago, PetrolDave said:

When using a mains battery charger you must connect the negative lead to the bodywork NOT directly to the battery terminal so the BMS is still monitoring the charge going into the battery.

 

The BMS makes the, very valid, assumption that the ability of a battery to hold/take charge can only get worse with age, so if you don't tell the BMS that a new battery has been fitted it will still treat it as having the hold/take charge ability of the old one. So the new battery will never get properly charged, and the BMS will continue to shed non-essential loads as it did with the old battery fitted.

 

I understand the point that you are making, that it is cromulent that the BMS to assumes the battery deteriorates *but* do we *actually* know that is the case?

 

Are we making an assumption, or uncritically accepting incorrect sources of information? We all know that "the manufacturer says" isn't necessarily accurate, nor is material from companies that sell new batteries and have a dealer network to support.

 

I wouldn't be in the least bit surprised if the BMS were capable of making decisions based on the *actual* performance of the battery, not what it remembered the battery doing previously.