Fitting a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia (CANBUS 1.6)

[gingerbeardman]

If you are reading this you may be trying to fit a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia which are CANBUS 1.6

 

It is possible, but you need an adapter which needs to be wired between the car and the headunit.

 

Before you begin

The only thing you do in the car is plug everything in. 

 

All the preparation work can be done from a comfortable chair and table/desk. And that is just identifying your wires, plugging things together, and cutting the correct two wires. 

 

RNS300 "Cruise"

RNS310 "Amundsen"

You need a Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

I also used a Quadlock extension cable (see below) so that I was not actually cutting or crimping any wires on the car, and so that this modification can easily be removed or moved to another car. This is important because any changes to the coding of the headunit will need to be done in another more modern car, one with CANBUS 2.0 so you will most likely have to remove the headunit at some point.

 

Requirements

1. TORX T20 bit & driver

Notes: even though there's only four screws to undo I used a powered, cordless screwdriver.

 

2. Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors (I got a 10 pair pack on eBay)

Notes: these do not involve any wire cutting or soldering!

the male (paler) part needs to be securely fixed to a wire, I used pliers to really crimp them hard!

the female (darker) part needs to "click shut" on the wire.

 

3. Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751)  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

4. Quadlock extension cable (fully wired 40-pin version on eBay)

 

How to

1. make sure your adapter has some wires or a harness of its own attached

 

2. attach the female tap connectors to the quadlock extension  

wiring is as follows: 

CAN 2H = CAN 2.0 + (to headunit)
CAN 1H = CAN 1.6 + (to car)
CAN 1L = CAN 1.6 – (to car)
31 = GROUND (12v –/negative)
CAN 2L = CAN 2.0 – (to headunit)
30 = BATTERY (12v +/positive)

 

3. IMPORTANT: You need to cut the CAN High/Low wires between the tap connectors for the adapter (red marks on below photo, which was taken before I cut the wires). 

The relay converts from the older car signal to the newer radio signal. Imagine it as a language translator. 
The wires are cut so the older car signals don't get to the radio. 
One half of a cut wire with the car signal goes into the relay and the other half of that wire with the converted signal comes out of the relay ready for the radio. 
If the wires aren't cut then the relay can't work correctly and the old signal is still getting to the radio. 

In short, if you don't cut the wires it will not work 

 

4. connect the adapter to the quad lock extension (I used Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors, which are a male/female pair that can be detached easily if required)

 

5. plug everything in (it's pretty tight back there but with some patience and arrangement it will all fit) — success!

 

Postmortem

• I'm pretty certain that the adapter itself automatically activates navigation on the car MFD as I did not need to code that, it "just worked".

 

• RNS300 announces distances (by voice, and on the maxiDOT/MFD) in kilometres rather than miles.
• Reverse parking radar graphics are not displaying on the new headunit, but reverse warning sound still beeps.

 

Maybe I can code the headunit in another car to change these last two?

 

-- 

 

For other headunits you may have luck with the below information.

RNS315 "Amundsen+"

(not sure)

 

RNS510 "Columbus"

Canshack adapter (no longer sold, you need to find one used)

or OEMplus CAN BUS Adapter (expensive! you will also need to make sure that before you fit the Columbus it is coded to DDP protocol using bit 7 of byte 07)

 

Edited 4 July, 2017 by gingerbeardman
clarification

[rhinopower]

Where did you get the relay, and cost?

[gingerbeardman]

34 minutes ago, rhinopower said:

Where did you get the relay, and cost?

 

Just added a link in the guide above to another thread I have about that.

 

Spoiler: from the Czech Republic for ~ £68 delivered.

 

cheers!

 

 

Edited 14 June, 2017 by gingerbeardman

[gingerbeardman]

@Joelfletch do you have each item in the requirements list? 

[Joelfletch]

15 minutes ago, gingerbeardman said:

@Joelfletch do you have each item in the requirements list? 

I haven't as of yet as I only managed to find this thread today. 

 

So I'll need to buy some  quick lock scotch taps, quadlock extension cable and a Skoda relay 487.

 

I'll purchase all these tomorrow after work. 

 

The bit that is causing me confusion is where you say to cut the wires where you have marked in red. Does this require soldering? 

 

Thank you so much for your help. You have no idea how much I want this to work in my car 

[Joelfletch]

21 minutes ago, Joelfletch said:

I haven't as of yet as I only managed to find this thread today. 

 

So I'll need to buy some  quick lock scotch taps, quadlock extension cable and a Skoda relay 487.

 

I'll purchase all these tomorrow after work. 

 

The bit that is causing me confusion is where you say to cut the wires where you have marked in red. Does this require soldering? 

 

Thank you so much for your help. You have no idea how much I want this to work in my car 

I actually just Googled how to use those scotch taps so I understand that you don't need to solder. The parts that are confusing me now is how do I identify which wire is what and how do I ensure that my relay has its own wiring harness? 

[gingerbeardman]

11 hours ago, Joelfletch said:

I actually just Googled how to use those scotch taps so I understand that you don't need to solder. The parts that are confusing me now is how do I identify which wire is what and how do I ensure that my relay has its own wiring harness? 

All wires are marked at every connector: relay, radio, car,  extension. 

 

Unless you buy a relay without wiring it should come with them. 

 

For me the relay was the most difficult thing to source. 

 

If the RNS310 didn't come with a GPS antenna you'll need one of those. And possibly a splitter for the radio antenna. 

 

Get back on touch when you're ready to do it! @joelfletch

Edited 4 July, 2017 by gingerbeardman

[Joelfletch]

On 04/07/2017 at 10:16, gingerbeardman said:

All wires are marked at every connector: relay, radio, car,  extension. 

 

Unless you buy a relay without wiring it should come with them. 

 

For me the relay was the most difficult thing to source. 

 

If the RNS310 didn't come with a GPS antenna you'll need one of those. And possibly a splitter for the radio antenna. 

 

Get back on touch when you're ready to do it! @joelfletch

 

 

All of my parts finally arrived yesterday. After speaking with Gingerbeardman who helped me through the set up, I'm extremely relieved to say that it worked a charm! The RNS310 works just as you'd expect in a newer fabia/roomster. (apart from the clock displaying the wrong time and not being able to change it... But I can live with that!) 

 

Thank you for all your help. Couldn't have done it without this thread! 

Edited 29 July, 2017 by Joelfletch
Wrote threat instead of thread

[gingerbeardman]

You're welcome!

 

I'm intrigued that the time is wrong. How many hours is it out? 

 

I'll look into it. 

[Joelfletch]

The time varies every time I turn it on and I'm not sure how to change it 

[LORDTOM4000]

I’m looking into doing this conversion on my 08 plate Fabia the current unit is the dance one. Will I need all of the bits listed above to do the conversion

 

thanks

[Joelfletch]

My Fabian had a Dance system previously so I would say yes you can do this conversion and you'll need all the parts stated above 

[loony]

Could you explain a bit about this conversion? I am new to a roomster (2008 model 3, pick up soon) and I will want to fit my Kenwood KDC X5000BT headunit, JBL amp and 12 inch Sub instead of the stock HU.

 

Does canbus affect this change and is it only for the readout to continue to work?

 

Thanks

Edited 21 June, 2018 by loony

[aCid_BiH]

Hi all,

 

sorry for popping up this topic, but has anyone been able to fit RNS315 (Amundsen+) to Roomster 06'?

 

My main issue isn't regarding the MFD display of navigation directions (I would definitely love to have it), but regarding Amundsen+ communication with vehicle and turning off problem. Also, I cannot use built in phone since the device doesn't recognize that the car is ignited. 

 

Please if anyone has any information, let me know.

 

 

[gingerbeardman]

On 21/06/2018 at 19:11, loony said:

Could you explain a bit about this conversion? I am new to a roomster (2008 model 3, pick up soon) and I will want to fit my Kenwood KDC X5000BT headunit, JBL amp and 12 inch Sub instead of the stock HU.

 

Does canbus affect this change and is it only for the readout to continue to work?

 

Thanks

Can't help you with regards to your Kenwood. But the conversion this topic is about is because the radio uses a newer CANBUS than car has, so the "relay" does a conversion. 

 

On 07/08/2018 at 13:07, aCid_BiH said:

Hi all,

 

sorry for popping up this topic, but has anyone been able to fit RNS315 (Amundsen+) to Roomster 06'?

 

My main issue isn't regarding the MFD display of navigation directions (I would definitely love to have it), but regarding Amundsen+ communication with vehicle and turning off problem. Also, I cannot use built in phone since the device doesn't recognize that the car is ignited. 

 

Please if anyone has any information, let me know.

 

 

I'm not sure, as stated in the OP. 

 

If you used the relay in the parts list, I'd say that the RNS315 is more like the Columbus (requires a much more expensive converter)

[loony]

Thanks GBM

[sandroid76]

Hi!.

 

Did you try to connect VCDS with this 1.6-to-2.0 relay? Is the "radio" node identified correctly (should be node 56)?

 

I'm asking this because currently I have a RCD330 in my 2008 Roomster, and it works thanks to a canbus simulator: so it's effectively disconnected from original canbus 1.6 system.

However I would like to code the RCD330 in order to adjust the amplifier settings (it has a "not so brilliant audio"...), and with my current installation the node 56 is not detected by VCDS (since as I told before is disconnected from car canbus).

So I was wondering if the relay is a two way converter and works with VCDS...

 

Thanks in advance for the help you may provide.

[SlushBox]

I have 2014 roomster..  J just bought a  Satnav/ Radio / CD player /USB/ Memory card / DVD Double DIN play off Ebay   .. Chinese  generic VW type  . £199,00.  Comes with all leads  ( Except  revesrse camera )  Plug & play ...Old out , new in . No problems ...

[JotaPe]

On Fri Sep 21 2018 at 10:28, sandroid76 said:

Hi!.

 

Did you try to connect VCDS with this 1.6-to-2.0 relay? Is the "radio" node identified correctly (should be node 56)?

 

I'm asking this because currently I have a RCD330 in my 2008 Roomster, and it works thanks to a canbus simulator: so it's effectively disconnected from original canbus 1.6 system.

However I would like to code the RCD330 in order to adjust the amplifier settings (it has a "not so brilliant audio"...), and with my current installation the node 56 is not detected by VCDS (since as I told before is disconnected from car canbus).

So I was wondering if the relay is a two way converter and works with VCDS...

 

Thanks in advance for the help you may provide.

Hello.

I have a Roomster from 2008, i have a dance radio and also want to put a RCD 330 (i saw them on eBay, the OEM "noname" version). What canbus simulator did you use?

[sandroid76]

On 22/11/2018 at 03:14, JotaPe said:

Hello.

I have a Roomster from 2008, i have a dance radio and also want to put a RCD 330 (i saw them on eBay, the OEM "noname" version). What canbus simulator did you use?

 

I used the one supplied from the AliExpress seller. I can't tell you the model, cause it's all in chinese.

The other option is to use the official one. Try searching in the forum (someone also calls it "relay"). However it's about 80€.

[Jamesey]

hi ive fitted a vw rcd510 dab into my 2010 fabia and it works fine but it wont turn on and off with the ignition , on vagcom its not detecting node 56 so im guessing thats the problem , i can either turn it on and off maually and live with it or buy a canbus simulater but have no idea at all what to look for , can someone find some links that will sort my radio out for the best options , my rcd510 is out of a 2011 golf.

my fabia only had the dance aswell

Edited 12 August, 2019 by Jamesey

[Franky89]

Hi

 

With this adapter in place, will vcds pick up the head unit for coding to enable Bluetooth etc? 

 

Thanks for step by step guide by the way it will be a great help. 

[Chickenlickin]

On 14/06/2017 at 22:57, gingerbeardman said:

If you are reading this you may be trying to fit a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia which are CANBUS 1.6

 

It is possible, but you need an adapter which needs to be wired between the car and the headunit.

 

Before you begin

The only thing you do in the car is plug everything in. 

 

All the preparation work can be done from a comfortable chair and table/desk. And that is just identifying your wires, plugging things together, and cutting the correct two wires. 

 

RNS300 "Cruise"

RNS310 "Amundsen"

You need a Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

I also used a Quadlock extension cable (see below) so that I was not actually cutting or crimping any wires on the car, and so that this modification can easily be removed or moved to another car. This is important because any changes to the coding of the headunit will need to be done in another more modern car, one with CANBUS 2.0 so you will most likely have to remove the headunit at some point.

 

Requirements

1. TORX T20 bit & driver

Notes: even though there's only four screws to undo I used a powered, cordless screwdriver.

 

2. Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors (I got a 10 pair pack on eBay)

Notes: these do not involve any wire cutting or soldering!

the male (paler) part needs to be securely fixed to a wire, I used pliers to really crimp them hard!

the female (darker) part needs to "click shut" on the wire.

 

3. Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751)  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

4. Quadlock extension cable (fully wired 40-pin version on eBay)

 

How to

1. make sure your adapter has some wires or a harness of its own attached

 

2. attach the female tap connectors to the quadlock extension  

wiring is as follows: 

CAN 2H = CAN 2.0 + (to headunit)
CAN 1H = CAN 1.6 + (to car)
CAN 1L = CAN 1.6 – (to car)
31 = GROUND (12v –/negative)
CAN 2L = CAN 2.0 – (to headunit)
30 = BATTERY (12v +/positive)

 

3. IMPORTANT: You need to cut the CAN High/Low wires between the tap connectors for the adapter (red marks on below photo, which was taken before I cut the wires). 

The relay converts from the older car signal to the newer radio signal. Imagine it as a language translator. 
The wires are cut so the older car signals don't get to the radio. 
One half of a cut wire with the car signal goes into the relay and the other half of that wire with the converted signal comes out of the relay ready for the radio. 
If the wires aren't cut then the relay can't work correctly and the old signal is still getting to the radio. 

In short, if you don't cut the wires it will not work 

 

4. connect the adapter to the quad lock extension (I used Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors, which are a male/female pair that can be detached easily if required)

 

5. plug everything in (it's pretty tight back there but with some patience and arrangement it will all fit) — success!

 

Postmortem

• I'm pretty certain that the adapter itself automatically activates navigation on the car MFD as I did not need to code that, it "just worked".

 

• RNS300 announces distances (by voice, and on the maxiDOT/MFD) in kilometres rather than miles.
• Reverse parking radar graphics are not displaying on the new headunit, but reverse warning sound still beeps.

 

Maybe I can code the headunit in another car to change these last two?

 

-- 

 

For other headunits you may have luck with the below information.

RNS315 "Amundsen+"

(not sure)

 

RNS510 "Columbus"

Canshack adapter (no longer sold, you need to find one used)

or OEMplus CAN BUS Adapter (expensive! you will also need to make sure that before you fit the Columbus it is coded to DDP protocol using bit 7 of byte 07)

 

That looks just the job but can’t find the relay any ware and I cannot read the link I’m not allowed help !

[Chickenlickin]

On 31/08/2020 at 11:33, Chickenlickin said:

That looks just the job but can’t find the relay any ware and I cannot read the link I’m not allowed help !

Hi as I can’t find the relay do you think these items will suffice.

Regards Danny

[Chickenlickin]

On 14/06/2017 at 22:57, gingerbeardman said:

If you are reading this you may be trying to fit a CANBUS 2.0 headunit in a pre-facelift Roomster/Fabia which are CANBUS 1.6

 

It is possible, but you need an adapter which needs to be wired between the car and the headunit.

 

Before you begin

The only thing you do in the car is plug everything in. 

 

All the preparation work can be done from a comfortable chair and table/desk. And that is just identifying your wires, plugging things together, and cutting the correct two wires. 

 

RNS300 "Cruise"

RNS310 "Amundsen"

You need a Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

I also used a Quadlock extension cable (see below) so that I was not actually cutting or crimping any wires on the car, and so that this modification can easily be removed or moved to another car. This is important because any changes to the coding of the headunit will need to be done in another more modern car, one with CANBUS 2.0 so you will most likely have to remove the headunit at some point.

 

Requirements

1. TORX T20 bit & driver

Notes: even though there's only four screws to undo I used a powered, cordless screwdriver.

 

2. Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors (I got a 10 pair pack on eBay)

Notes: these do not involve any wire cutting or soldering!

the male (paler) part needs to be securely fixed to a wire, I used pliers to really crimp them hard!

the female (darker) part needs to "click shut" on the wire.

 

3. Skoda Relay 487 (5J0035751)  https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/432316-found-skoda-relay-487-part-5j0035751/

 

4. Quadlock extension cable (fully wired 40-pin version on eBay)

 

How to

1. make sure your adapter has some wires or a harness of its own attached

 

2. attach the female tap connectors to the quadlock extension  

wiring is as follows: 

CAN 2H = CAN 2.0 + (to headunit)
CAN 1H = CAN 1.6 + (to car)
CAN 1L = CAN 1.6 – (to car)
31 = GROUND (12v –/negative)
CAN 2L = CAN 2.0 – (to headunit)
30 = BATTERY (12v +/positive)

 

3. IMPORTANT: You need to cut the CAN High/Low wires between the tap connectors for the adapter (red marks on below photo, which was taken before I cut the wires). 

The relay converts from the older car signal to the newer radio signal. Imagine it as a language translator. 
The wires are cut so the older car signals don't get to the radio. 
One half of a cut wire with the car signal goes into the relay and the other half of that wire with the converted signal comes out of the relay ready for the radio. 
If the wires aren't cut then the relay can't work correctly and the old signal is still getting to the radio. 

In short, if you don't cut the wires it will not work 

 

4. connect the adapter to the quad lock extension (I used Quick Scotch Lock Tap Connectors, which are a male/female pair that can be detached easily if required)

 

5. plug everything in (it's pretty tight back there but with some patience and arrangement it will all fit) — success!

 

Postmortem

• I'm pretty certain that the adapter itself automatically activates navigation on the car MFD as I did not need to code that, it "just worked".

 

• RNS300 announces distances (by voice, and on the maxiDOT/MFD) in kilometres rather than miles.
• Reverse parking radar graphics are not displaying on the new headunit, but reverse warning sound still beeps.

 

Maybe I can code the headunit in another car to change these last two?

 

-- 

 

For other headunits you may have luck with the below information.

RNS315 "Amundsen+"

(not sure)

 

RNS510 "Columbus"

Canshack adapter (no longer sold, you need to find one used)

or OEMplus CAN BUS Adapter (expensive! you will also need to make sure that before you fit the Columbus it is coded to DDP protocol using bit 7 of byte 07)

 

What I don’t understand about this is a relay is a set of either N/O or N/C contacts and a control relay, so my question is why does it cost so much for this item 83.53 euros.

Has anyone check one to see what the setup is ?