'56 Octavia Mk 2 vRS - 4 issues. Please help!

[YouCanCallMeSir]

Good morning Briskoda,

 

I purchased my petrol vRS with 37k on the clock and full service history in January due to a 54-mile (each way) commute for my new job. It had to have a new clutch, flywheel and master cylinder by the dealer before I collected it and I've added 11k since then.

 

I've now got four issues to resolve on an extremely limited budget but I'm hoping the symptoms could help someone on here diagnose the faults so I can work out the best route to take or attempt a diagnosic/repair myself/with help. We're moving to Leatherhead in mid-July to be 24-miles closer to work which may assist in mechanic recommendations but my dad is decent with car mechanics and we are both mehanical maintenance engineers so we have the tools and a bit of knowledge between us...

 

The issues:

1. There is loud knocking and creaking somewhere along the front axel. The rear end now creaks as well but that isn't overly important unless it ends up being a suspension issue. Standing still you can turn the steering wheel both ways with no noise, but positive throttle while cornering and it creaks from around mid-rack/passenger side (from memory). Drive over bumps and it doesn't knock but brake hard in a straight line and there is a definite knock from the far corners/wheels; once the weight is transferred, it doesn't knock again even if you pump the brakes while slowing. It also knocks at other times but I will try to assess during a long drive today.

 

2. It randomly cuts out and loses power (maybe once a week?) without warning and mosty without the engine management light. It only happens when warm and moving slowly/stopped; it suddenly starts to run rough (as if there is a blockage) and then power goes. No matter how much you floor it, you can't save it and it revs to a max of 1.5k-ish then dies. Restart it (often multiple times) and keep pumping the throttle and eventually it runs normal again. I have felt it falter while driving before but the speed of the engine seems to bring it back to life. I have a spirited drivig style and only use Shell V-Power so I'd like to think it isn't deposits but checking the fuel filter is on my list of things to do; when I get some time that is!

 

3. From when the above started, it seems like the throttle "sticks". My trackday toy is an '02 Civic Type R and you have to be extremely gentle with the pedals to be smooth in that. Now though the vRS is really jerky and overrevs. If you ease off the throttle slightly, it tries to give you whiplash as it foregoes engine braking and feels like someone has pressed the brake pedal. Conversely if you don't wait about a second after taking your foot off the throttle before engaging the clutch to change gear, the revs continue to climb on their own briefly. It does not accelerate for itself though, otherwise it would have gone straight in for a check. I had selective amnesia and couldn't remember how it behaved before I noticed this issue but my fuel economy has become abismal so I'm convinced there is an issue.

 

4. There appears to be a problem with the AC/climate control. It worked fine at first but then it seemed to get excessively hot on anything but "Lo". In the recent hot weather, it wouldn't cool the car down when the fan was on max, either on recirc or normal. I eventually turned the fan speed down and then it started cooling, just not overly powerfully.

 

I hope my descriptions are helpful? As I mentioned, we will be heading out for a long drive today so I'll try to do some more testing. I may also have time to get under the car tomorrow so any guidance before that would be most appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance guys.

 

 

Tim

[rayx]

Well, a lot of issues Tell us the engine code (BWA, CCZA or?) and production year. No I can only say you will need to find someone with a diagnose scanner (VCDS, VAS, ODIS, etc) which could read possible errors stored at ECUs and look around here for well known issues of MK2 vRS, either non FL or FL version.

[YouCanCallMeSir]

Yes, although once they are all resolved I'll hopefully go back to having an immaculate example.

 

I've just checked the V5 and it says BWA, but I'm unsure of the production year... As I said it's a '56-plate (pre-FL).

 

Would there be error codes even without an engine management light? I have an OBDii reader which I loaned to my manager but if it would make sense to get a VCDS, maybe I should invest in one.

 

Can anyone recommend one please?

[meaty101]

I had a few issues with mine when I first bought it. A faulty dump valve and charcoal canister and purge valve problems. Scanning the car revealed the problem as there was no check engine light. 

 These engines are well known for really bad excessive build up of gunk on the inlet valves which causes poor idling running issues. However, yours is quite low miles so although it can't be totally ruled out it seems unlikely. My previous Leon fr with that engine had 50k and no issues. My vrs now has 94k and runs well with just a little judder at idle.

A scan will probably tell you what's going on with these issues. If the A/C is low on refrigerant or compressor faults it should tell you. I'm sure the inlet manifold is a known issue too. It's the runner control valve that sticks in them iirc. Good luck.

Edited 24 June, 2017 by meaty101

[wiilydog]

For 1)

 

Rear - check arb droplinks

 

Front - check the rear console bushes + arb drop links

[Ju1ian1001]

Fault one is defo the front lower arm bushes, often called console bushes; very common problem due to poor design. not an easy job if you don't have access to a two post ramp but can be done. As above i'd change all 4 ARB drop links as well as the ball joints in them do take a lot punishment.

 

For faults two and three i'd find some one local with VCDS to do a scan, as sometimes fault code are logged in the ECU, but it does not trigger the engine management light. Also worth changing the fuel filter is it may never have been done.

 

Fault four, the aircon may just need regassing, as the system can loose the gas if it isn't used on a regular basis. 

[TheClient]

Yes, mostly as per others and Ju1ian1001. I have had a mk5 golf and Octavia Mk2 FL and the front lower wishbone bushes do start to scrape and groooannnn. Mine are especially bad with lower ambient temps. Say less than 8C.  There are other points of attention though like drop links and upper mounts bearings or even tie rod ends.

 

Faults 2 and 3 definitely need to see faults logged. Maybe throttle body in combination with other possibilities.

 

Fault 4 pressure tested and regas if proven to hold vacuum as a start.

 

Edited 24 June, 2017 by TheClient

[YouCanCallMeSir]

Thanks for all the replies so far. This is a very knowledgeable forum!

 

I had my suspicions about the ARB links as I've had to do them on my Type R as well; thanks for confirming them. I have a mate who details cars and has a two post ramp but it sounds like a job best left for a professional...

 

If it's due to a poor design, would aftermarket upgrades improve the issue/longevity? i.e. ARBs, bushes, etc. I have no plan to replace the car as it is my workhorse so anything that will give me more life is a bonus.

 

Diagnostic test it is then! Would a trained specialist be able to get more out of a session that I could with a reader? I'm wondering if it would be worth investing in one or not.

 

How much would a re-gas or condenser change likely set me back?

[Papfox]

1) I defer to my learned compatriots' experience

 

2/3) I wonder if this could be a dodgy accelerator pedal sensor but I think the engine management light may may this less likely. Possibly a faulty air mass sensor or dodgy air filter? If the light came on at least once, you will hopefully have a fault stored in the ECU to check. You can find a list of people who have VCDS and may be willing to help here. If you would like to buy VCDS to have it and you only want to work on a maximum of 3 cars then the "Home" user version (exactly the same as the bigger version except that it's limited to 3 cars) is £225. 10 car and unlimited versions are available for more money if you want to use it on more cars and upgrades are available if you later wish you'd bought the 10 or unlimited. The official dealers for it are Gendan and Ilexa, both of which are very well spoken of in this forum. I got mine from Gendan. I understand many cheaper ones sold on places like eBay are knockoffs and, if they aren't, you won't qualify for support from Ross-Tech or the dealer as it wasn't sourced from an authorised outlet.

 

4) Sounds like low gas. I think I paid £45 to have mine regassed at ATS. Connecting VCDS to the car and going into the aircon system will reveal all the pressures, temperatures and speed of the compressor and I'm sure someone on here will be able to interpret the readings for you. This definitely doesn't sound like the compressor failing so it hopefully won't be too expensive.

 

Good luck,

Paul.

 

Edited 24 June, 2017 by Papfox

[Ju1ian1001]

18 hours ago, YouCanCallMeSir said:

Thanks for all the replies so far. This is a very knowledgeable forum!

 

I had my suspicions about the ARB links as I've had to do them on my Type R as well; thanks for confirming them. I have a mate who details cars and has a two post ramp but it sounds like a job best left for a professional...

 

If it's due to a poor design, would aftermarket upgrades improve the issue/longevity? i.e. ARBs, bushes, etc. I have no plan to replace the car as it is my workhorse so anything that will give me more life is a bonus.

 

Diagnostic test it is then! Would a trained specialist be able to get more out of a session that I could with a reader? I'm wondering if it would be worth investing in one or not.

 

How much would a re-gas or condenser change likely set me back?

If you can get access to a two post ramp then it is DIY'able (just a ball ache doing it on axle stands due to access but possible), I think there be a polybush kit arount to do the lower arm bushes but not sure, both my Octy's have suffered this, i have just lived with it, unless my current octy fails the MOT on them then i won't change them ( i'm an MOT tester by trade but not allowed to test my own vehicle as it's against company policy.)

[silver1011]

Steering racks have been known to wear prematurely on occasion on early vRS's.

 

VCDS is a must, whilst the EML (Engine Management Light) doesn't come on all the time you have mentioned it has come on before? This will mean that it is highly likely fault codes will be stored which will help with the diagnosis.

 

A/C compressors are also a well documented weak point on all MKII Octavia's too.

 

There are lots of people on here with VCDS, take a look here to see if there is someone local, currency is usually beer tokens!