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NSR Door Doesn't open


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@w.t100 Don't think that is the problem as I cannot open the door using the interior bowden cable, or even by using a long screwdriver and levering the release arm :-(

 

 

Edited by garibaldy
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5 hours ago, garibaldy said:

@w.t100 Don't think that is the problem as I cannot open the door using the interior bowden cable, or even by using a long screwdriver and levering the release arm :-(

 

 

 

It's not child-locked is it? Mine came with the child lock -set from the supplier and I couldn't open it from the inside until I undid it. Apologies if this is bleedin' obvious and you've already checked it.

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Thought about that @sepulchrave but thanks for the post. I've mostly been trying to open the door using a screwdriver to lever the arm from inside the door. After each new idea I do try a couple of times to open with the exterior handle and interior bowden cable but mostly use the screwdriver......

 

I'm reluctantly thinking about posting a for-sale advert on ebay because the MoT is due in December and i'm out of ideas.....

Edited by garibaldy
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12 hours ago, w.t100 said:

If the small cable is too tight the locking/unlocking wina work!! 

Pull out handle .let off small cable and see!!

This happened to me after fitting a new door lock module. It was the quickest fix ever. The Bowden cable lug was just in the wrong hole. popped it into the correct hole and bingo.

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13 hours ago, w.t100 said:

If the small cable is too tight the locking/unlocking wina work!! 

Pull out handle .let off small cable and see!!

@w.t100 @valvedoctor46 you cracked it. Thanks for your help!

 

I hadn't located the lug at the end of the cable correctly which caused the lever to be slightly open. The lever moved back a fraction as soon as I removed the lug/bowden cable and the lock operates as normal.

 

Now next job is how to get the lug in the hole correctly. Any tips?

 

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Are you sure it's not because you've got the handle end of the bowden cable too tight? It has a serrated plastic end which has to be adjusted so that there is the right amout of tension on the cable. As you've fitted a new lock unit it will probably need adjusting to suit.

 

fabia-mk1-1124.png

 

3wer56677.png

 

 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/body/body_work/rear_doorsliding_doorwing_doorscentral_locking/rear_door/removing_and_installing_the_door_handle/

 

Edited by TMB
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I need to get the cable fitted into this hole :-

 

IMG_2546.thumb.JPG.f125015563d983a134a270e15f7f641a.JPG

 

The lug is half-moon shaped so it needs a quarter-turn to engage properly. There is not a lot of room in there - do I need to take the door handle off?

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Yes, looks like you will have to take out the lock barrel. Once the cable is attached you will need to adjust the tension at the handle on refitting.

Edited by TMB
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Allright man, btw I also had this on my Fabia ambiente estate, Near side door jammed shut and will not unlock, took off the door card from the inside (Was a bit tricky), also involved taking the glovebox out to gain access (Which is allot easier than its sounds), Once the card off, pop out the two big black rubber discs, and roll the window down till you see the nuts, loosen the nuts and lift your window up and out the way, tape it to your headlining/outside, 

 

now drill out the rivets and obviously make sure all the wiring is disconnected and out of the way, and ease the metal panel out, you'll figure what angel to move it at but it'll take a few goes.

 

Once its out all I done at this stage was unlock/lock the car a good few times over while hitting the mechanism with my hand and pretty quickly it opened, put a load of grease in the mechanism now the door was opened and it was all good :D......

 

UNTILL... I put the doorcard back on..... I figured out the problem, the issue was the metal part that goes to the door snib bit, was obviously out of shape and it required a decent bit of force to move it up and down through the hole as it was at an angel, the lock mechanism didnt have the power to move it, so the door never opened.... 

 

Quick solution to that was simply cutting the snib away completely :D Wasnt needed anyway.

 

 

Sorry if youve been told all this before, Ive not read all the comments but thought id let you know what issues I had, You will need a lazy toung riveter that goes up past 6mm rivets if I remember right, make sure the gun does 6-7mm just to be safe....

 

Need any help let me know, it was a nightmare and a slow process but I got there no reason why anyone else cant

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1 hour ago, taylsy01 said:

Allright man, btw I also had this on my Fabia ambiente estate, Near side door jammed shut and will not unlock, took off the door card from the inside (Was a bit tricky), also involved taking the glovebox out to gain access (Which is allot easier than its sounds), Once the card off, pop out the two big black rubber discs, and roll the window down till you see the nuts, loosen the nuts and lift your window up and out the way, tape it to your headlining/outside, 

 

now drill out the rivets and obviously make sure all the wiring is disconnected and out of the way, and ease the metal panel out, you'll figure what angel to move it at but it'll take a few goes.

 

Once its out all I done at this stage was unlock/lock the car a good few times over while hitting the mechanism with my hand and pretty quickly it opened, put a load of grease in the mechanism now the door was opened and it was all good :D......

 

UNTILL... I put the doorcard back on..... I figured out the problem, the issue was the metal part that goes to the door snib bit, was obviously out of shape and it required a decent bit of force to move it up and down through the hole as it was at an angel, the lock mechanism didnt have the power to move it, so the door never opened.... 

 

Quick solution to that was simply cutting the snib away completely :D Wasnt needed anyway.

 

 

Sorry if youve been told all this before, Ive not read all the comments but thought id let you know what issues I had, You will need a lazy toung riveter that goes up past 6mm rivets if I remember right, make sure the gun does 6-7mm just to be safe....

 

Need any help let me know, it was a nightmare and a slow process but I got there no reason why anyone else cant

 

Hi mate, the NSR door has been stripped down for a few weeks but @w.t100 @valvedoctor46 pointed me in the right direction. I've got to know the procedure well as the OSF window regulator broke so had to buy a lazy tongue rivetor for that job a couple of months ago.

 

I've only had the car since April and it's kept me busy :speechless: (check my other posts).

 

Just waiting for my new T20 Torx screwdriver to arrive (normal one doesn't fit in the "overly" small hole in the door - why didn't they increase the diameter by a couple of mm??). Then I will follow the procedure that @TMB posted to remove the door lock/blank and attach the lug to the lock.

Edited by garibaldy
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Got mine in June and I feel your pain lol, So far from what I remember I've done 4 wheel bearings, 2 brake callipers, full set of discs and pads, This door fault, slow driver window regulator, 2  ball joints joints, a small hole in the boot floor, fitted the towbar and new wing mirrors

 

and to go I have 2x ABS Sensors, speedo not working due to water damage (Just happened last week) (I know its water as when we first got the car we were driving in heavy rain and the passenger footwell began to look, looks like its a common problem where the underside of the scuttle panel below the wipers gets clogged up with dirt, so doesn't drain and water builds up eventually damaging the wiring loom, should really of fixed it before it done damage but too late now :D ) , all the air vents are broken (Old painter and decorators car) and need replaced, rear wiper motor gubbed, rear heated window gubbed, Powersteering not great (Possibly low fluid/battery power), thing needs a timing belt & water pump now its at 170k and never had one :D  and some of the dash lights dont light up at all when I know there are faults on it lol..... 

 

 

Got to say my first VAG car and im not impressed with some of the common faults.... but i did expect allot of work when I bought the car, what can I say when it cost under £400, I really only picked the Fabia Estate as its low insurance for a decent amount of car and engine for a group 10 insurance..... Its a good car but VAG defo aint a great company, I dont know anyone with a completely fault free VAG car

 

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On ‎10‎/‎6‎/‎2017 at 11:58, taylsy01 said:

Got mine in June and I feel your pain lol, So far from what I remember I've done 4 wheel bearings, 2 brake callipers, full set of discs and pads, This door fault, slow driver window regulator, 2  ball joints joints, a small hole in the boot floor, fitted the towbar and new wing mirrors

 

and to go I have 2x ABS Sensors, speedo not working due to water damage (Just happened last week) (I know its water as when we first got the car we were driving in heavy rain and the passenger footwell began to look, looks like its a common problem where the underside of the scuttle panel below the wipers gets clogged up with dirt, so doesn't drain and water builds up eventually damaging the wiring loom, should really of fixed it before it done damage but too late now :D ) , all the air vents are broken (Old painter and decorators car) and need replaced, rear wiper motor gubbed, rear heated window gubbed, Powersteering not great (Possibly low fluid/battery power), thing needs a timing belt & water pump now its at 170k and never had one :D  and some of the dash lights dont light up at all when I know there are faults on it lol..... 

 

 

Got to say my first VAG car and im not impressed with some of the common faults.... but i did expect allot of work when I bought the car, what can I say when it cost under £400, I really only picked the Fabia Estate as its low insurance for a decent amount of car and engine for a group 10 insurance..... Its a good car but VAG defo aint a great company, I dont know anyone with a completely fault free VAG car

 

Sounds like you've bought a proper dud !!!!!!!

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On 09/10/2017 at 15:25, valvedoctor46 said:

Sounds like you've bought a proper dud !!!!!!!

 

Too right... Engine and Chassis are in great nick and running really well, everything else is just side issues that can be ironed out so im still happy enough with it but its the fidly tricky little bits and bobs that go wrong that annoy me with the Skoda and half of them seam be quite common faults ive found on here.

 

Anyone I know with a VAG car has some kind of issue, even brand new but I suppose most cars now have 10 million sensors that MUST all work or else the thing wont work right.

 

Bring back OHV, No ABS, No Power Steering No confusing wiring looms, My old fiesta could be rebuild with no more than a screwdriver and a cup of tea.

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45 minutes ago, taylsy01 said:

 

Too right... Engine and Chassis are in great nick and running really well, everything else is just side issues that can be ironed out so im still happy enough with it but its the fidly tricky little bits and bobs that go wrong that annoy me with the Skoda and half of them seam be quite common faults ive found on here.

 

Anyone I know with a VAG car has some kind of issue, even brand new but I suppose most cars now have 10 million sensors that MUST all work or else the thing wont work right.

 

Bring back OHV, No ABS, No Power Steering No confusing wiring looms, My old fiesta could be rebuild with no more than a screwdriver and a cup of tea.

 

I agree with most of what you say but you can keep OHV, I like that my feeler gauges are rusting slowly in a box in the shed somewhere.

 

I bought a brand new Polo (AUA engine) for the ex-wife back in 2000 and it spent most of the first year going back and forth for warranty work, buying a new car is like being a beta tester, the smart money buys one a couple of years old where all that stuff is already done.

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19 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I agree with most of what you say but you can keep OHV, I like that my feeler gauges are rusting slowly in a box in the shed somewhere.

 

 

The 1.4 mpi is OHV but has hydraulic lifters so no feeler gauges needed :thumbup:

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