NSR Door Doesn't open

[sepulchrave]

I bought this:

 

SKODA FABIA SEAT IBIZA DOOR LOCK MECHANISM REAR LEFT SIDE 3B4839015AG

 

For less than £20 delivered.

 

From:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/titanautopartslondon?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754

 

It fitted and worked perfectly.

[Breezy_Pete]

Mk2 seems to use the same part up until 06/12/2009, see here.

[mrgf]

Looks like Skoda want silly prices for door locks though...

[garibaldy]

5 minutes ago, mrgf said:

Looks like Skoda want silly prices for door locks though...

 

I bet they do! I've ordered one from the ebay shop that @sepulchrave referenced.

[mrgf]

Stick another hundred on, then add your price again and you'll be about there!

 

Still, it'll have a two year warranty and Vw/Skoda embossed on it!

Edited 20 July, 2017 by mrgf

[Jim H]

On ‎20‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 21:13, mrgf said:

Stick another hundred on, then add your price again and you'll be about there!

 

Still, it'll have a two year warranty and Vw/Skoda embossed on it!

Yep

 

Skodaparts Door Lock 1996-2008

 

How Much!!!

 

Actually, our other Fabia has problems with the locks. Drivers door won't with button on key and rear door (OSR) occasionally doesn't unlock.

 

 

Edited 21 July, 2017 by Jim H

[garibaldy]

Hi - I've just been struggling to prise the top of the door card away from the door. I removed the 3 screws and pulled the bottom of the card away from the door as usual, but I couldn't lift it off the top of the door! I managed it in the end and decided to take a photo in the hope it will benefit others

 

 

The red diagonal line is the fitted position of the door card seal along the top of the door. I used a tyre lever to get underneath the card seal, which i've highlighted by the red arrow, and lever until I felt it lift away from the door - it was obvious when it freed up . Beforehand I tried forcing the door card upwards for ages assuming it would be the same as the front door cards, but it isn't. I would expect damage to the door card if you don't use this technique.

Edited 22 July, 2017 by garibaldy

[garibaldy]

Hi All - Bit of an update! I'd bought a cold chisel expecting to smash out the lock, but I was surprised that the rear door opened yesterday :-) so this afternoon I set about removing the door carrier and lock!!

 

Managed to install the replacement lock, but when I closed the door it wouldn't re-open. Same problem. Both cables are re-attached but nothing has changed.

Any ideas?

[sepulchrave]

27 minutes ago, garibaldy said:

Hi All - Bit of an update! I'd bought a cold chisel expecting to smash out the lock, but I was surprised that the rear door opened yesterday :-) so this afternoon I set about removing the door carrier and lock!!

 

Managed to install the replacement lock, but when I closed the door it wouldn't re-open. Same problem. Both cables are re-attached but nothing has changed.

Any ideas?

 

Test it before you close it!

 

Has to be a loom fault, probably inside the door boot where it gets fatigued.

[garibaldy]

Tested the replacement lock before installation and it unlocked/locked so at a loss as to what is wrong.

[KenONeill]

@garibaldy - As @sepulchrave says, there has to be a problem with the signal to the door (or possibly with the individual solenoid if that's separate to the part you fitted).

[valvedoctor46]

Hey garibaldi. daft question but did the new lock module have the same amount of pins as the old one ?

On ‎9‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 20:59, garibaldy said:

Hi All - Bit of an update! I'd bought a cold chisel expecting to smash out the lock, but I was surprised that the rear door opened yesterday :-) so this afternoon I set about removing the door carrier and lock!!

 

Managed to install the replacement lock, but when I closed the door it wouldn't re-open. Same problem. Both cables are re-attached but nothing has changed.

Any ideas?

 

[garibaldy]

On 14/09/2017 at 13:05, valvedoctor46 said:

Hey garibaldi. daft question but did the new lock module have the same amount of pins as the old one ?

 

 

Yes same number of pins. Thanks for the post though!

[garibaldy]

Hi All - I followed @sepulchrave's post and have been inspecting the wiring. Initially it looked in good condition, but there was a spot of rust on the blue plug that connects at the B pillar. When I looked inside the blue socket I noticed that one of the pins appears to have corroded away!!

 

 

I checked the off-side and it is clean and has 5 pins. Anybody know the procedure to replace that socket?

 

 

Edited 17 September, 2017 by garibaldy

[sepulchrave]

Wow, I've never seen that before, I wouldn't bother replacing the socket, just make a long jumper wire and send it round the plug and hide it in the rubber boot, if you ever have to remove the door you can just cut it.

[garibaldy]

Arghh, i'm still unable to open the door. Firstly I tried a jumper wire, then removed it and twisted both ends of the wire together to be sure :-

 

[Breezy_Pete]

In your photo showing the broken off pin, the pin next to it, that the brown wire will use, also looks corroded. Not sure if that's just light and shade in the photo though?

[garibaldy]

2 hours ago, Wino said:

In your photo showing the broken off pin, the pin next to it, that the brown wire will use, also looks corroded. Not sure if that's just light and shade in the photo though?

All of the pins have a degree of corrosion but you're correct about that pin. Corrosion is pretty bad so i've cut that wire, twisted the brown wires together but still no change :-

 

Edited 20 September, 2017 by garibaldy

[garibaldy]

Hi - I have cutout the blue connectors and twisted the 5 wires together to elimate any issues there, but unfortunately I still cannot open the door.

 

I did a continuity test of the wires (from the B pillar to the connector at the lock) and it passes, although the brown wire (pin 5) isn't a clean looking copper as the wire should be. I've tried cutting it back to better looking wire but it isn't much better. Pin 5 is Earth, would this cause a problem if it wasn't wired-up/connected? The other 4 wires are fine.

 

I can hear the lock working without the brown wire connected but the door isnt budging.

 

 

 

Edited 27 September, 2017 by garibaldy

[Breezy_Pete]

Yes, I think the microswitch(es) that sense whether the lock is in the open or closed position need that earth. 

[garibaldy]

thanks Wino, do you know what the part number is for that wiring loom?

[Breezy_Pete]

What year is the car?

Here's the page for 2006: https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/2006-453/9/971-972040/

 

Looks like there was a change in something in 2005, as our 05-reg just falls into the second group of VIN numbers, post change. So ours would be 6Y0971161S, I think.

 

I'd be tempted to just solder a new length of wire in just back from the lock connector, bypassing the door connector bit and connecting to clean fresh wire beyond?

 

Edited 27 September, 2017 by Wino

[garibaldy]

 

This blue wire is the only spare I had, but i'm guessing it shouldn't be an issue. Brown wire (pin 5 earth) cut at the lock connector and twisted to fresh wire at the B pillar = no difference. Other 4 wires of the loom give good continuity.

 

[garibaldy]

Evening all. Struggling with this and wondering if I ordered the correct lock for our 2006 Mk1.  This is what i ordered :- http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=282356396317&view=all&tid=1705573964018

 

It is making all the correct noises when locking/unlocking.

 

Appreciate any help!

 

[Breezy_Pete]

That link's not working for me, what part number(s) did it claim to cover?