mk1 vrs losing throttle again

[octaviavrs170]

Hi folks. Was driving car a couple of weeks ago and the throttle kept cutting out. A week or so before that I changed the throttle body gasket and cleaned it out. I managed to catch it before it died in could keep it going and the throttle would return. Looked under bonnet and car had 2 problems.

1. Coil no1 wasn't pushed in properly.

2. Have a massive hole in vacuum y pipe. 

Recently car drove sweet till today. Sitting at lights and the revs died. Took a good few cranks to start her back up but when I was cranking it, there seemed to be a lack or juice from battery. Could be a possible fault however once started it drove along sweet again. Got home turned her off and a minute or so later started her back up no problems. Getting really browned off with the car. Spent a fortune on her with suspension exhaust bushes etc and tbh I'm getting really disheartened with her. Anyone have anything similar and or a reason or theory as to why and how to fix it. I've attached 2 codes that were read a couple of weeks ago by a auto spark while he was in my workplace. 

Edited 31 July, 2017 by octaviavrs170
Spelling mistake

[Jux]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17544/P1136/004406

 

The p1200 code relates to your n249 valve, which will most likely go away when you resolve your vacuum leaks. Do the Y-pipe, clear the codes and you should be golden

[octaviavrs170]

8 minutes ago, Jux said:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17544/P1136/004406

 

The p1200 code relates to your n249 valve, which will most likely go away when you resolve your vacuum leaks. Do the Y-pipe, clear the codes and you should be golden

I hope so. I'm assuming with the vacuum pipe being Pete tong that it would cause the car to hesitate on the accelerator and possibly cut out. I've lost alot of boost as well. 

[Jux]

Yeah it will throw it in limp mode, screw all your MAF readings and generally cause the engine to behave like a bratty child

 

[octaviavrs170]

Just now, Jux said:

Yeah it will throw it in limp mode, screw all your MAF readings and generally cause the engine to behave like a bratty child

 

LOL like a bratty child. Pmsl. More like a female on her dabs. I never realised you replied to my thread last time I posted up about the problems. I just haven't had the time it money to sort it as I've just moved home. Will definitely get it done ASAP.  Divorced one bratty child and tbh I can't be bothered divorcing this one. 

[KenONeill]

@octaviavrs170 - This might sound like an odd question, but does the battery light appear OK when you switch on?

[octaviavrs170]

4 hours ago, KenONeill said:

@octaviavrs170 - This might sound like an odd question, but does the battery light appear OK when you switch on?

Yes ken. It starts first time everytime. Battery light goes off when I start it and never appears on dash when driving. 

[KenONeill]

@octaviavrs170 - Well, that rules out a charge problem arising from the load sense wires then.

 

Any other strange warning lights, like, say, ABS and traction control appearing and disappearing, ICE and ventilation turning themselves off mid-trip?

 

I am honestly going somewhere with this, and it's cheap and easy diagnosis stuff when you know what you're looking for.

[octaviavrs170]

13 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

@octaviavrs170 - Well, that rules out a charge problem arising from the load sense wires then.

 

Any other strange warning lights, like, say, ABS and traction control appearing and disappearing, ICE and ventilation turning themselves off mid-trip?

 

I am honestly going somewhere with this, and it's cheap and easy diagnosis stuff when you know what you're looking for.

Nothing like that mate. Honestly everything else is sound

[octaviavrs170]

Found this on Internet. It's a part number for the y piece. 

06A103221AH

Just incase. 

 

[octaviavrs170]

Anyway a small update. Replaced the y piece hose with a part from skoda. A genuine part through my work as they are a skoda dealer. and so far the car ain't cut out. However the boost is still not there. It pulls but not great. What is the best way to test all boost pipes or test the intercooler. Will try and get codes read again in the mean time and clear all faults. 

Edited 15 August, 2017 by octaviavrs170

[kentphil1]

The best way really to test boost pipes is to carry out a smoke test.

 

Just as an aside, are you certain that the N75 is not throwing a hissy fit?.

[octaviavrs170]

Could be bud but it never threw a code when it was scanned for the n75. It's definitely worth looking at though. It cut out again this morning on way to work after only 5 mins driving. Luckily I'm less than 10 mins away from my depot. I even thought about the relay 409 for the pump as they can get a bit bitchy. Possibly a maf sensor. Also when I checked the oil dipstick it was dry. I put a litre in and it's just in the minimum. Will top it up. And it's due a service and needs brakes done ASAP. Aaaagggggghhhhhhh. Bloody cars.

[octaviavrs170]

Right I've been reading about this breather hose issue etc all day and I've come to the conclusion that the s shape hose is knackered. I can hear leaking from that same area under the inlet manifold and after what I've read that's a common problem with the auq engine breather system. So a couple of things: Do I do one or other.

1. Replace with normal hoses

2. Replace with silicone hoses

If replacing with silicone hoses who is best to buy them from and would I be better to replace elbow joint from pcv and replace valve itself while I'm there. I'm a bit worried as it looks like a bit of a fragile area as like the comments say that area gets hot and contaminated with age etc and the parts I remove could be and will be brittle. I know people have done this replacement or upgrades with deletes etc but can anyone tell me what to do to make my life easier when I have a bash. I'm not a qualified mechanic but I can do alot to cars with time and patience and knowledge and I'm more than willing to have a good crack at this. Any help advice and guidance would be much appreciated.

[kentphil1]

The job will be a lot easier if you replace the plastic elbow, whether you use silicone hoses or not, it allows you to assemble the hoses together on the bench, whilst leaving the securing hose clips loose.

 

You might want to budget for a new dipstick tube, as they are plastic, meaning they can crack with age, and you will need to move the plate that the n249 is mounted on to get access to the hoses.

 

Once you get the hoses into the correct position on the car, you simply final tighten the hose clips. I would also fit a new pcv valve which is located in the hose to the elbow while you are there, not very expensive, and can eliminate a lot of problems at the same time.

 

There used to be a good how to in the guides section from Bowders1, but I think his pictures were wiped out in the great photobucket disaster.

[octaviavrs170]

Yeah I read bowders' write up. Total shame about the pictures though. Thanks for the advice i really appreciate that. Gonna have a bash over the weekend. Will do a write up of how I fought my way through it. It's gonna be a battle. It always is with me and cars. So a new s pipe, pcv valve and elbow will be ordered today. 

[kentphil1]

Here;s some info for you to choose which hoses you need if you decide on oem. - http://www.oemepc.com/skoda/part_single/catalog/sk/markt/CZ/modell/OCT/year/2003/drive_standart/252/hg_ug/103/subcategory/103085/part_id/2543361/lang/e

[octaviavrs170]

Thanks for this it's a massive help. However still not too sure what to order. If I were to replace all hoses, pcv, elbow and other bits what numbers would I need to order. I'm struggling a bit to work it out without actually stripping the car parts out as I need the car daily. If you or anyone else could point me in the right direction that would be great. 

[kentphil1]

When I did mine, I used parts 2, 3, 4, 6, 9A,10, I already had a supply of hose clips, but if you don't, you need 2 x 8, 1 x 7, 1 x 11, 1 x 12 and 1 x 14.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil.

[octaviavrs170]

On 20/08/2017 at 00:56, kentphil1 said:

When I did mine, I used parts 2, 3, 4, 6, 9A,10, I already had a supply of hose clips, but if you don't, you need 2 x 8, 1 x 7, 1 x 11, 1 x 12 and 1 x 14.

 

Hope it helps,

 

Phil.

Absolutely spot on kentphil1. Ordered up today. Hope for sure it fixed this time. 

[octaviavrs170]

Just a small update. Ordered a new pcv system and still waiting on it to be delivered. Got it from main dealer through my work who own a skoda dealership. Parks motor group is who I work for. Was looking around for other boost leaks while I was in engine bay and found a hole in the hose at top of diverter valve. So did a bit of botching to the pipe and cut off the part that was knackered and refitted the pipe. Bit of a stretch though but just enough to refit. Will replace that soon too. Cleared all vault codes and car goes like a bullet again. Still changing pcv system as it definitely has a leak. Oil residue over inlet and engine covers and still can hear a slight leak from the inlet area. But fibally getting there with the car. Will do a write up when I do pcv system hopefully soon. 

[octaviavrs170]

Another update. Took car to torquay today and it broke down. Had to get it recovered. The hoses perished and crumbled in my hand. Anyway need to order the pipe directly under the inlet manifold that connects to the t piece. Anyone got any idea what the part number is or where I can get it. 

Cheers 

[kentphil1]

That will be either hose 9A or 10 in the link I posted earlier in the thread, depending on which bit of the t piece your hose has self destructed on. the part number is to the right of the illustration number in the list of written descriptions.

[octaviavrs170]

Yeah kentphil1 it's the s shaped hose number 9 hose from the crankcase breather to the t piece that destroyed itself. Car won't start at all and I'm assuming that with the hoses being buggered this will do this. I'm still waiting on the new pcv system being delivered from my work. Hopefully be doing it on Thursday on my day off. Sick of walking to and from work. Lol. Tbh was considering even doing the pcv delete and putting in a catch can but even after reading the how to guides I'm not confident at all. 

Edited 29 August, 2017 by octaviavrs170

[octaviavrs170]

Right guys replaced the pcv system. All hoses including check value and hockey puck. However car still won't start. It has definitely got compression, ignition spark, charged up battery and fuel etc. I also just changed the 409 fuse tonight and nothing.  When I got mechanic at work to test electrical connections he said there was no power going to the pump. And when i browsed internet something about the 447 relay was mentioned when someone spoke of a 1.9tdi cutting out. Has anyone got any ideas. Also where are the fuse boxes on the car. I know of the one on the drivers side and the one at the battery. Is there any other one. Thanks in advance guys. I'm at my wits end with this bloody car tbh. Oh and here is a couple of pics of the pcv install.