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Fog light fuses mk 1


Frenchtone

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Hadn't noticed you were using a Micro-CAN. Might be worth checking that that VCDS is updated and that it works in another compatible VAG car.

 

Not sure where the CAN gateway is located in a LHD Yeti. It might be in the drivers footwell above the pedals but I can't be sure. It'll look something like this, it'll probably have a red connector:

 

cg.jpg.7011d76470299aa00c905ef8b0e0f843.jpg

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ok micro can works so prob car based  -- I'm out most of tomorrow but will use the above link later, did have a quick look Friday but no time to continue!

what are the approx. dimensions of the canbus box so I know what to look for?

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ok now found the box, it is behind the glove box, code on it is

7NO  907  530  AK   with a blue plug, the obd is pinkie coloured

 

for langers2k  -  what next?, I presume the cables(colours) on the box are the same as the obd socket?

Edited by Frenchtone
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I think the important ones are listed below, you should check with erwin if in doubt...

 

On the OBD port:

- pin 1: Switched power

- pin 4: Ground

- pin 5: Ground

- pin 6: CAN high (orange/black)

- pin 14: CAN low (orange/brown)

- pin 16: Permanent power

 

On the CAN gateway:

- pin 1: Permanent power

- pin 9: CAN low (orange/brown)

- pin 11: Ground

- pin 14: Switched power

- pin 19: CAN high (orange/black)

 

Assuming all that is correct, you should be able to get communication with the CAN gateway and therefore see what other codes are stored.

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obd

1    0       ig on   11.79

6     0      ig on    2.49

14       2.49    ig on   2.49

19        0

 

can

 

1    11.79    ig on 11.79

9     0    ig on  0

14    0   ig on   0

19    0   ig on 0

 

^   voltage readings

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CAN bus is a communication protocol, it uses two wires which have the same information at different voltages. I think it should be 2.5v at rest and either 0v or 5v when transmitting.

 

You needed to check that the two CAN wires were connected between the gateway and OBD port as those two shouldn't go anywhere else...

 

With the OBD did you mean pin 16 has no power as there isn't a 19. That should have power all the time...

 

Did you disconnect the CAN gateway to get those? Seems odd that the switched ignition didn't come up. You'll need to check the wiring diagram for any related fuses.

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my error I think, yes can gateway disconnected to get the values there using a pin in the relevant plug sockets, but connected to get obd values  --  I will check it all again first thing tomorrow!  -  as I said previously all fuses have been unplugged , checked and replaced, are there any others hidden somewhere?

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ok now downloaded flow diags and control unit locations -  got about 90 mins access left any other suggestions?

ok 

 

 

obd voltages

 

1  ov ign off can in          11.4  ign off   -  same when ign on and can plug out

 

6   0v                                   2.47              0v     ov  can out

 

14  0v                                   2.47              0v         0v   can out

 

16   0v                                   0v                  0v         0v

 

 

 

 

can gateway

 

1      11.5v  can plug out       11.5v   can out ign on

 

9        0v                                      0v    as above

 

14    0v                                       11.5v   as above

 

19    0v                                          0v  as above

 

 

do you want readings with can plugged in, I could pierce the insul with a fine pin to get readings?  looking at the diags could the prob be in J519 the onboard control unit?

 

if I get a 12v supply to pin16 on the obd would that work with vcds do you think?

 

also got the board out of the gateway module, examining with a eye mounted glass no traces of burned/hot components but who knows!

Edited by Frenchtone
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Have you confirmed that CAN high and low are connected between the CAN gateway and OBD port?

- OBD pin 6 should connect to CAN gateway pin 19

- OBD pin 14 should connect to CAN gateway pin 9

Most multimeters have a continuity test for this.

 

I'd also trace pin 16 from the OBD port. From the diagrams I have, it looks like pin 16 is connected to B319. These might not be 100% correct for you car...

 

B319 also feeds:

- pin 8 of the light switch

- pin 1 of the RLS (rain light sensor)

 

It should be easy to get to pin 8 of the light switch, if it has power, then you've got a wiring issue to the OBD port.

 

If it hasn't got power, then you need to find a 10A fuse, possibly SC10, which is the internal fuse box. Check it properly as a visual check may not be enough...

 

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ok  continuity between the can high and low 

no continuity betwwen light switch pin 8 and obd 16 or as a voltage reading between 8 and earth     11.5 v on pins 10 and 2 when ign on

need to stop now as have to go out  for the afternoon!

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Ok, having spent part of yesterday afternoon studying the circuit flow diags etc I now begin to understand the system!

Looked at fuse 10  under lights /mag glass in my workshop and yes, a faulty fuse, the fusible piece had a fracture against one of the terminal posts which when moved slightly either made or broke the circuit hence earlier comments that the fuses were all ok and probably the reason for the intermittent operation of the rear fog light. Put it back in this morning to no effect and as per Ronnie barker in open all hours 'jiggled' it and it worked. Now replaced said fuse and everything now works apart from the front fogs which on further bench testing appears to be the switching contact inside said switch, so need to replace it or strip it  and inspect, a bit loathed to do that in case I cannot reassemble it  --  so ebay or main stealers here I come

Did a scan and it now shows as an intermittent fault on the switch, it didn't originally though!

Ok so progress made, more knowledge gained etc and finally, a   BIG thanks   for  the time and effort given by Langers2k

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As a final thought on this, Skoda live up  to their slogan, as when the light switch fuse blows the lights are permanently on when the ignition key is inserted and in the first position when turned    ----   SIMPLY CLEVER!

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  • 2 weeks later...

A quick update, bought a light switch off good 'ole fleabay from a guy in Latvia, it had a knackered bezel for £15 INC P&P  it arrived today, brilliant, it works, transferred the bezel and now who's a happy bunny then

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  • 1 month later...

The final piece on this topic, pulled the switch apart, looked at the circuit board, and the very fine track connecting the switch input pin 7 to the switch pad was burned out, with a fine tipped soldering iron , piece of fine cable etc a 'lash up' repair could have been made! who knows, if theres a next time??!!

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