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Fabia pd100 clutch slipping.


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1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Yes, easier by far, however the pressure plate rubbing the gearbox casing has to be caused by excessive crank endfloat which has probably also caused the crank seal failure. So we're dealing with a more complex issue here. I assume the thrust washers are built into one of the main bearings rather than separate which rather suggests the engine has been oil-starved at some point.

Ouch sounds expensive too fix, any ways that I could test this or fix it?

 

Also I know these engines have to use vw 505.01 or equivalent could not using the correct oil cause this? 

 

Thanks sepulchrave and everyone else that's chimed in.

Edited by Furbypd1000
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31 minutes ago, Furbypd1000 said:

Ouch sounds expensive too fix, any ways that I could test this or fix it?

 

Also I know these engines have to use vw 505.01 or equivalent could not using the correct oil cause this? 

 

Thanks sepulchrave and everyone else that's chimed in.

 

No, low oil level would cause it, the only way to check is to use a flywheel bolt and mole grips to grab the end of the crank and see how far it can be moved back and forth, if it's noticeable then the mains need replacing which means engine out.

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1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

No, low oil level would cause it, the only way to check is to use a flywheel bolt and mole grips to grab the end of the crank and see how far it can be moved back and forth, if it's noticeable then the mains need replacing which means engine out.

when I was removing the flywheel it was on the really tight, i tried pulling it towards me and didn't notice any play, couldn't even get the flywheel off without using a crow bar. 

9 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Then again, perhaps not...

So pressure plate is faulty and could have caused the mark on the gearbox? 

I can see scrape marks on the fingers and its not all the way round only on some fingers, again don't know what this points to.

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10 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Yes, easier by far, however the pressure plate rubbing the gearbox casing has to be caused by excessive crank endfloat which has probably also caused the crank seal failure. So we're dealing with a more complex issue here. I assume the thrust washers are built into one of the main bearings rather than separate which rather suggests the engine has been oil-starved at some point.

So what your saying is, replace the clutch and crank seal and then sell it? 

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 Few extra things to consider:-

As the friction plate wears, those fingers move away from the engine and towards the gearbox - I cannot see the 1st photo which I assume is the friction plate - but if the friction plate was below the minimum specified thickness could this allow the fingers to touch.

Is it the original clutch, and if possibly changed has the correct one been fitted - a thinner than design friction plate could incorrectly position those fingers - I know that generally all Fabia gearboxes (except the VRS) are the same but is the crankshaft to flywheel always in the same position on different engines - possibly one for you Sepulchrave.

 The markings on only a few of those fingers could be due to slight bending of individual fingers over time - if you put the pressure plate down on something very flat then put a flat plate on the spring fingers with a spirit level on top where is the bubble if you rotate the spirit level around.

 The bellhousing does not look really bad so think the leaking seal may not be too much of a problem and may not be contaminating the clutch but better to change if possible.

 

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12 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

No, low oil level would cause it, the only way to check is to use a flywheel bolt and mole grips to grab the end of the crank and see how far it can be moved back and forth, if it's noticeable then the mains need replacing which means engine out.

 

It's more failure/wear of thrust washers that generally cause endfloat - often overlooked on an engine rebuild. They are splash lubricated so shouldn't be affected if engine has had a temporary loss of oil pressure (very low oil/oil light on!)  - The rest of the engine would have major problems though(Big & small ends, mains, cam bearings).

 

 

If the engine was this cream crackered you'd be having other problems - I think this is a simple case of cover plate failure - especially considering the rubbing on (only)some of the springs

 

It's worth chaniging the crank oil seal anyway they do start to weep with age and as the engine wears (crankcase pressure etc)- my old 2003 Superb I pd 100 (almost the same engine) used to "consume" oil quickly after an oil change until the oil level hit half way on the dipstick and then use very little thereafter. I never stripped it down to check - saying that it's still on its original clutch/DMF with a new owner at nearly 200k miles now (infact it's still on original battery and exhaust! )

Edited by bigjohn
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58 minutes ago, bigjohn said:

 

It's more failure/wear of thrust washers that generally cause endfloat - often overlooked on an engine rebuild. They are splash lubricated so shouldn't be affected if engine has had a temporary loss of oil pressure (very low oil/oil light on!)  - The rest of the engine would have major problems though(Big & small ends, mains, cam bearings).

 

 

If the engine was this cream crackered you'd be having other problems - I think this is a simple case of cover plate failure - especially considering the rubbing on (only)some of the springs

 

It's worth chaniging the crank oil seal anyway they do start to weep with age and as the engine wears (crankcase pressure etc)- my old 2003 Superb I pd 100 (almost the same engine) used to "consume" oil quickly after an oil change until the oil level hit half way on the dipstick and then use very little thereafter. I never stripped it down to check - saying that it's still on its original clutch/DMF with a new owner at nearly 200k miles now (infact it's still on original battery and exhaust! )

 

Please read my post further up, most engines these days don't use separate thrust washers, they are more often a 'flanged' main bearing shell, I haven't bothered checking because the information would be superfluous at this stage.

In any event the engine would have to yanked to replace the thrusts/mains.

 

Failure of splash lubrication is precisely what happens when an engine is run low on oil but not enough to suffer a loss of oil pressure so your point is unclear.

 

Certainly the crank seal should be replaced since that's almost certainly how the clutch and flywheel ended up covered in oil.

 

I'm starting to think that simply replacing the crank seal and fitting a complete clutch kit will fix this problem outright.

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1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Please read my post further up, most engines these days don't use separate thrust washers, they are more often a 'flanged' main bearing shell, I haven't bothered checking because the information would be superfluous at this stage.

In any event the engine would have to yanked to replace the thrusts/mains.

 

Failure of splash lubrication is precisely what happens when an engine is run low on oil but not enough to suffer a loss of oil pressure so your point is unclear.

 

Certainly the crank seal should be replaced since that's almost certainly how the clutch and flywheel ended up covered in oil.

 

I'm starting to think that simply replacing the crank seal and fitting a complete clutch kit will fix this problem outright.

 

I think the 1.9 does still have thrust washers however as you say the engine would have to be removed anyway

 

I agree that probably replacing crank seal and fitting a clutch kit will solve the issue

 

 

Edited by bigjohn
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Hi guys, got all the parts here including rear seal, just wondering if its advisable to use a bit of sealant on the bottom of the flange.

 

Also i cant find the official VW stuff locally so could I use one of these?

 

1) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/car-adhesives-tapes-sealants/quick-gasket/?553772420&0&cc5_139

 

2) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/car-adhesives-tapes-sealants/quick-gasket/?549773385&0&cc5_139

 

3) http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-accessories/car-maintenance-accessories/car-adhesives-tapes-sealants/quick-gasket/?549773375&0&cc5_139

 

Thanks

Edited by Furbypd1000
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2 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Just use black RTV silicone, it's useful to have around anyway.

I can only find them 3 locally that I linked above, anything else would have to be ordered in and would really like to get this finished today.

 

Thanks again everyone.

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Got the seal installed, going to leave it for an hour or two to let the RTV to dry and then install the flywheel and clutch kit.

 

Also anyway to test this seal before I put everything back toghether? 

 

Ive read these have a tendency too leak after a new ones installed.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Furbypd1000 said:

Got the seal installed, going to leave it for an hour or two to let the RTV to dry and then install the flywheel and clutch kit.

 

Also anyway to test this seal before I put everything back toghether? 

 

Ive read these have a tendency too leak after a new ones installed.

 

 

 

It'll be alright, trust the technician! :D

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Interesting thread and replies there sure are some learned members on this forum and hats off to the OP for having a crack at what looks to be a major job and on jacks and axle stands by the looks of it ( I'm certainly glad I've got mates rate deal with local garage !! and thankfully not had any major issues as yet fingers tightly crossed )

 

OP 

I don't think even briskoda members can do much about the current weather conditions hopefully it will fair up soon 

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Well done on managing to get the gearbox off on your drive.

Hope you had some help.

+1 for something being wrong with the pressure plate or the release arm/bearing to cause the wear.

 

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Well done on managing to get the gearbox off on your drive.

Hope you had some help.

+1 for something being wrong with the pressure plate or the release arm/bearing to cause the wear.

 

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Thanks everyone who's contributed.

 

Finally got all the parts toghether after many days of rain and struggle.

 

I would advise anyone doing a clutch change on there drive too remove the subframe, makes life a lot easier so I learned as i got the gearbox stuck on one of the dowels that line up the gearbox when I was putting it on.

 

In the end had to remove the subframe due to that.

 

 

Have a look at these pictures and you will see what i mean.

 

 

 

20170914_184701.jpg

20170914_184649.jpg

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