Putting it to bed for a while

[ChoonDoode]

Afternoon all

 

Due to health issues, I'm having to stop driving at the moment (and work and motorbiking and most other things in life)

 

I've had to get laid up insurance for it, so I won't be able to get another family to give it a drive, I'm going to be putting my VRS TDi estate to bed so to speak.

 

I know the usual things to do, like ensuring a deep clean inside and out, checking the fluids and lubricating anything and everything before it gets put under the quilt.

 

My main question is whether to not I should bother putting the car onto axle stands or not, as it's potentially going to be getting left for 6 - 12 months. I do have axle stands ready to use, but I wasn't sure whether that would cause more harm than good.

 

regards

 

 

Ian

[CBMotorsport]

No need for axle stands. 

 

Only things likely to suffer are the battery, (either trickle charge it, or disconnect it) and the tyres. If someone can roll it forward for you a few inches every couple of weeks, then back every couple of weeks.

 

Sorry to hear of your health issues. Wishing you a speedy recovery. :-) 

 

Edited 14 September, 2017 by CBMotorsport

[ChoonDoode]

Just now, CBMotorsport said:

No need for axle stands. 

 

Only things likely to suffer are the battery, (either trickle charge it, or disconnect it) and the tyres. If someone can roll it forward for you a few inches every couple of weeks, then back every couple of weeks.

 

 

ok I'll do that then.

 

A friend of a friend's friend said I should pump the tyres over what they should usually be and that will help prevent flat spots. That worth doing?

[Auric Goldfinger]

Sorry to hear about you health issues, I too wish you a speedy recovery.

 

 

[pist0nbr0ke]

Best wishes with your health.

 

It might be an idea to run it every few weeks to allow it to reach full temperature and dry any moisture inside, especially as we are coming in to winter? Mildew on seats, headlining and seatbelts is a nightmare if allowed to develop.

 

Make sure you SORN it too - as far as I know you have to pay any tax due retrospectively when you come to tax it after a long period of it being untaxed, unless it is declared as SORN for the duration of it being untaxed. I.e. it has to be permanently either taxed or SORN'ed.

 

I'm sure you've thought of this too, but the depreciation will be a killer, does it not work out better financially to sell it? 

 

Good luck in any case.

[ChoonDoode]

1 hour ago, pist0nbr0ke said:

Best wishes with your health.

 

It might be an idea to run it every few weeks to allow it to reach full temperature and dry any moisture inside, especially as we are coming in to winter? Mildew on seats, headlining and seatbelts is a nightmare if allowed to develop.

 

Make sure you SORN it too - as far as I know you have to pay any tax due retrospectively when you come to tax it after a long period of it being untaxed, unless it is declared as SORN for the duration of it being untaxed. I.e. it has to be permanently either taxed or SORN'ed.

 

I'm sure you've thought of this too, but the depreciation will be a killer, does it not work out better financially to sell it? 

 

Good luck in any case.

 

I've got an air purifier thingymajig which I'll be leaving in the car whilst it's sitting just to keep the inside clean. When I run the car, would you say I should run it with the air conditioning on or off? Or just use the heater?

 

I plan on keeping this car for a good while anyway. That was why I got it spec'd up with all the bits and bobs I could possibly need (only bits I didn't get were a panoramic sunroof, keyless entry and cornering fog lights)

 

One of the other reasons why I haven't thought about selling it and getting a new one later on is the car tax scenario. £30 for this at the moment, but if I were to get an equivalent when I can drive again, £140!?!? Plus I managed to get this car on the 0% deal they had last year, so I'm only paying the capital rather than a load of interest as well. 

 

Ian

[octavia5]

Running the engine till the oil is up to temperature would be a good idea every month , also keep the air con engaged as the seal need to be lubricated or they will dry out and the system is likely to leak when restarted after a years sleep

[CCTaylor]

4 hours ago, pist0nbr0ke said:

 

 

It might be an idea to run it every few weeks to allow it to reach full temperature and dry any moisture inside, especially as we are coming in to winter? Mildew on seats, headlining and seatbelts is a nightmare if allowed to develop.

 

Being a diesel it will take a very long time to get the engine to working temperature. It takes 5 miles or so for my 1.6Tdi to get the temperature to normal. Regular running at idle risks increasing the risk of wear during the warm up period. If it was my car I would not be running my car too often in the lay up period.

 

I would consider getting a chemical dehumidifier of the type sold for caravans, that should control the internal damp issue. I used one to dry out my Seat Toledo when the door card seals failed soaking the rear carpets.

 

I would definitely look for an intelligent charger to keep the battery in good condition. 

4 hours ago, pist0nbr0ke said:

 

 

[pist0nbr0ke]

30 minutes ago, CCTaylor said:

Being a diesel it will take a very long time to get the engine to working temperature. It takes 5 miles or so for my 1.6Tdi to get the temperature to normal. Regular running at idle risks increasing the risk of wear during the warm up period. If it was my car I would not be running my car too often in the lay up period.

 

You have me confused there. Starting the car every few weeks as opposed to potentially several times a day when in normal use would increase warm up period wear? How?

 

And why would running at idle increase wear when there is no load on the engine?

 

Condensation can be as much of an issue within the exhaust etc., as inside the car in cold damp weather, that's why I suggested running the car. If it's kept in a warm garage that will obviously reduce that risk.

 

I agree diesels take longer to warm up, but we're hardly talking hours. I have found mine is usually up to 80+ degrees oil temp after 10 minutes max of driving, or maybe 15mins of idling, at least when the outside temperature is above zero. 

[CWARD]

Ian, I'm no real help to your question but I wish you a speedy recovery. 

[stever750]

5 hours ago, CWARD said:

Ian, I'm no real help to your question but I wish you a speedy recovery. 

+1 

[MoggyTech]

Get well soon.

As for the car, silica gel packs for the interior, trickle charge battery, tyre shoes for the tyres. It's diesel, so the fuel shouldn't 'go off' like petrol does.

[brettikivi]

I've been laying up my A2 for months at a time - if it needs moved, I try to let it warm through, and that's ended up being once every six weeks or so. Miraculously, that's also avoided flat spots (though the summer tyres on it are nearly illegal anyway).

 

Trickle charge hasn't been necessary so far but I did replace the battery at the beginning of the year, so I think I'll be putting it on charge and disconnecting it from the car when it goes into the garage anyway. 

 

I find the bigger issue is the amount of crud that's settled on the car, so much bird poop and tree junk it's not remotely funny. 

 

There are two sides to the story: if you do start it, you really should be letting it warm through thoroughly. Otherwise you'll drop condensation in the exhaust and long-term that will do some damage. But just letting it idle isn't really going to warm it through (I've left the A2 running for a good 5 minutes at 10C ambient to find the temp needle hasn't moved) and diesels will be worse.

The moisture inside the car I don't see as being that much of an issue... as regards idling as being damaging, the acceptance elsewhere is that it wears components such as the camshafts and rockers, which may not be 100% correctly lubricated with the relatively low oil pressure associated with tickover. 

Yes, that's an extreme state; it was once upon a time seen to be a frequent thing with Taxis which were left idling a lot during the winter. 

 

Personally, my plan for my car for the winter - it's also coming off the road again just as soon as it's passed the tech inspection: oil change to remove the acidic stuff in there. Fresh tank of fuel. Slightly higher tyre pressure than it should be. Car cover to protect from the elements, then a battery disconnect after it's been locked. Battery onto a trickle charger in the cellar.

Not sure if the car is going into the garage or not. I've had an issue with a leak, which is also why I've been in and out of it, starting it, running it, moving it around, cleaning it. Probably fixed now, but that's also why I want a cover. Consider removing the wiper blades before storing it, so someone can't pinch them. I'd also be trying to keep it out of sight as much as possible. I've just pushed mine off the screen, but this is another universe as far as thieving scrotes is concerned. Washer fluid should be frost-capable so you don't get issues in the winter. 

 

For recommissioning: reconnect, check fluids, start, check tyre pressures, roll out, get the crap off the brakes (multiple 70-20km/h just did mine nicely, though it has taken a good 6-7 times to really clear them off) and run everything through, take it for a longer drive, get things moving again.

 

 - Bret

[ChoonDoode]

thanks for all your suggestions lads.

 

I've cleaned it inside and out this morning. Everything was dried thoroughly (door sills, boot and engine). Outside has been polished and the inside has had a jolly good hoover and wipe over.

 

I ran the engine for a good while and the temperature gauge got up to normal after about 10 minutes. I ran the AC to dry out the inside and I've left a Dehumidifier Pad (thanks Aldi) in the bo

 

I've been able to move the car sideways on my drive, so I'll be able to move it every so often to prevent flat spots. I've also put 40 psi all round.

 

I've topped up all the levels I'm able to (diesel and screen wash)

 

I was going to try and put the car in my garage, however it would have meant climbing out the boot. So a cover is it's best alternative.

 

Fingers crossed this is only a temporary measure, as I'm bored out my skull sitting at home, twiddling ones thumbs!!!!

[CCTaylor]

Thinking about my previous comments. I had not considered the aircon. You do need to run the engine regularly and make sure that the aircon is running in warm weather set it to coolest setting. If the weather is cold setting the aircon to max demist should force the aircon compressor into action. 

[BoxerBoy]

Hope you get well as soon as poss.

 

I leave my motor bike idle in the garage during the winter months, but I never fire it up at all due to all the negatives around lubrication and moisture in places it shouldn't be. Never mind AC issues

 

Tyres are pumped up hard, but only one touches the floor anyway.

I do use a trickle charger and fill the fuel tank to the brim to avoid condensation inside the tank.

 

I'd never leave a car outside for months on end. As said above, running the engine for a few minutes now and then does it No Good At All.

 

"Use It Or Lose It" - applies to many things in this world.

 

I'd seriously reconsider selling it rather than worry about it and/or watch it deteriorate.

 

Things will change when you want to get back into driving again.

 

It's only a lump of metal and plastic.