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Reverse Lights Inop - Mk 1 vRS


octyal

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I noticed the other week that my reverse lights had stopped working, did the normal checks, bulbs and fuses all good, so ordered a new switch. After spending ages trying to get at the old one (awkward location behind the starter and underneath the battery) and getting the new one in, they still don't work??? Have got 12v at the fuse (Number 7 in the fuse board), but nothing at the rear light bulb holders. I have also checked the three multiplugs in the LHR of the boot by the CD changer, and no signs of any water ingress or corrosion, so I am now at a loss as to where the issue lies. Are there any more common points on the loom that can come adrift? Seems weird that it was a sudden "failure" too, not had any issues up until recently. Are there any wiring diagrams available anywhere for them?

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What year is the car?

A quick look at a (1999) current flow diagram suggests there's a 10-way orange connector in the plenum chamber of which pins 3 and 10 carry the power to and back from the reversing light switch.  Sounds like a possible location for corrosion on connections.

I presume there was no sign of wire damage at/near the connector for the reverse light switch?

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33 minutes ago, Wino said:

What year is the car?

A quick look at a (1999) current flow diagram suggests there's a 10-way orange connector in the plenum chamber of which pins 3 and 10 carry the power to and back from the reversing light switch.  Sounds like a possible location for corrosion on connections.

I presume there was no sign of wire damage at/near the connector for the reverse light switch?

 

2005 - one from the last year of production. No sign of any wiring problems at the plug on the transmission, and I would have thought I wouldn't get a 12v feed at the fuse box if the issue was engine bay end?

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Let me double check on a later diagram.  I think the fuse is on the way/feed to the switch, rather than on the way back, if you see what I mean?

 

Yep, same 10-way orange connector in the plenum chamber (somewhere), same pin numbers.

Edited by Wino
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1 hour ago, Wino said:

Let me double check on a later diagram.  I think the fuse is on the way/feed to the switch, rather than on the way back, if you see what I mean?

 

Yep, same 10-way orange connector in the plenum chamber (somewhere), same pin numbers.

 

Ah, I see (I think) the fuse is before the switch/lights, rather than after - makes sense really (electrics pickle my head sometimes) - is it on the RH or LH side of the vehicle, can grab a quick look lunchtime then.

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Had a look lunchtime, can see wiring looms heading towards the centre of the screen, but can't get at them, so will have to wait until the weekend now. It may or may not be relevant, but the 12v at fuse 7 is when the car is in reverse, when in neutral there is no voltage - this shows the switch is working?

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23 hours ago, Wino said:

Let me double check on a later diagram.  I think the fuse is on the way/feed to the switch, rather than on the way back, if you see what I mean?

 

Yep, same 10-way orange connector in the plenum chamber (somewhere), same pin numbers.

 

Any chance you could PM me a copy of the flow diagram? Can't seem to find any wiring diagrams in the workshop manuals I have got

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18 hours ago, octyal said:

12v at fuse 7 is when the car is in reverse, when in neutral there is no voltage - this shows the switch is working

 

I can't explain this at all. As I see it, there's an ignition live feed to fuse 7, present whenever ignition is on, that goes to the reverse light switch via pin 3 of the 10 way connector. The current that should come and go as the switch is activated is the one coming back via pin 10 of the 10-way, heading back into the cabin and off to the rear clusters. 

 

The [81] is the connection from the fuse, the *2 means only manual gearbox cars, the *3 means only for engine codes BCA, AEH, AKL, BFQ

Reverse light.PNG

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  • 1 month later...

Finally managed to test the current at the rear lights, and nothing. 12v at the fuse with the ignition on (Got it wrong with the earlier post - oops). The 2 connectors by the CD changer are fine, although the blue/black feed for the lights doesn't run through them, so I suspect the connector under the scuttle panel may be the issue, oh joy, lol.

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I'm sure people on here have had issues with the wiring at the switch being too tight. They usually just solder in an extra length to the wiring and it solves it. 

 

I imagine that would be something you'd have noticed when replacing the old switch though, tbh, but just wanted to mention it. 

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14 hours ago, Saints92 said:

I'm sure people on here have had issues with the wiring at the switch being too tight. They usually just solder in an extra length to the wiring and it solves it. 

 

I imagine that would be something you'd have noticed when replacing the old switch though, tbh, but just wanted to mention it. 

 

Switch wiring isn't under any strain, and I have bridged the plug terminals to check. It's weird as they appear to have just stopped randomly, I may have disturbed something when I was sorting the coolant flange, so will double check.

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  • 3 months later...

@WinoManaged to find the elusive orange connector, eventually. It is under the RH cowling, under a plastic cover, under the wiper linkage. So is actually inside the car, above the internal fusebox (can just be seen from under the column) - not actually managed to sort them out yet, took all the scuttle apart, couldn't find the connector, so put it all back, then looked up under the dash and saw the connector.

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  • 1 year later...

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