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fault code 01317 instrument cluster


sterling

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My Daughters Fabia 1.4 mpi has developed a fault and need some advice please.

The car has developed a wiring fault and causes the instrument cluster power steering symbol, oil pressure, brake warming lights to come on and flash. The rev counter and speedo stop working etc  but engine still runs. If you turn ignition off and back on it clears itself. It happened twice today.

The fault code comes up as intermittent instrument cluster and looking on line there is a video clip of exactly the same problem but not what fixed it.

I think the instrument cluster needs changing?

question is if I purchase a cluster off line does it need coding to the car? or does the imobiliser part of the cluster come off the cluster so I can use my original and keep the keys matched.

has anyone taken one apart and could tell me what needs to be soldered as a few people have said it will be a dry joint on the board.

I also got fault codes 00532 and 01322 which I have managed to reset.

Any help much appreciated

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If it was me I would contact some of the specialist cluster repair companies. A quick web search refers to a few such as

http://www.clusterrepairsuk.co.uk/repair/model/skoda-fabia-6y-instrument-cluster-speedo

The panels have a lot of surface mount components and it is unlikely the fault is as simple as a dry joint requiring resoldering. Do you have the hot air equipment to reflow surface mount ? I guess you can give the panel a good inspection when removed but this is a task I would send off to a specialist company.

Recoding keys to the immobiliser is not hard if you have the required pin code. My old 57 Roomster came with it but I think VW store it themselves on newer cars. Read this

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Immobilizer

Adding the keys to open/close the doors is also simple. Note these are 2 different tasks, immobiliser and doors.

If you don't have your immobiliser pin code and you send the panel off why not ask them if they can tell you the pin code. It may be possible with their specialist equipment to read the code direct from the panel. Sending your panel for repair will make it retain all its current settings such as key matching and mileage.

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What year is the car @sterling?

 

Problems with dry joints on the connectors are a common occurrence on the older mk1s, well worth a close look and a few dabs with a soldering iron if found.

Have a look here: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/101275-fabia-immobiliser-skoda-cant-even-fix-it/?do=findComment&comment=4666309

 

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my daughter tried the car tonight and had some other symptoms:

all the warning lights came on, she started the car and noticed with the lights on the instrument cluster backlights failed to come on. she turned car off and removed key but all lights stayed on. put keys back in and started car again no change. I then hit top of dash hard and all fail lights went out cluster backlight came back on and all was well again? the only fail light that stayed on was airbag light which I can reset with scanner. so I think a loose connection or dry joint?

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yes mate I am an aircraft engineer by trade and can strip and build most things

I live in kings lynn

I have a second option of buying a second hand cluster and can get it cloned for 75 quid plus vat

I will pull apart on Friday.

it happened twice again tonight and hitting the top of the dash puts the lights back out!!!!

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Ah, you'll be fine getting in there for a look-see then.  May be worth looking at the other connector as well, not just the 32-pin green one, while you're there.

It does sound like it could easily be a cracked solder joint, or a few, from the way hitting it changes the situation.

If you do find such things, please consider trying to get some good close-up photos prior to re-soldering. Could be useful if others on here have similar troubles in future. :thumbup:

 

Edited by Wino
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WINO   you know your stuff... could not wait till weekend so did it tonight.

came out easy enough took clocks out of front and back plastics lifted the face and could see the pins you refer to. when you moved the plug on the board you could hear it creaking so knew it was a joint.

my wife re soldered all of the pins on the connector and did the other plug as well.

Back together and all is fine  took about an hour in total.

now got another issue

she has developed a misfire on cylinder 1 so I changed the plugs tonight but fault still there.

I thought it could be a coil pack   but while I was there I un plugged each of the injectors while it was running. when you take plug off number 1 nothing changes. all the others when unplugged kill the engine.

checked the resistance and all the same. power from the connectors are all the same.

I am still convinced number 1 injector is blocked......any thoughts    

I have ordered an injector but in the mean time any other ideas?????

fault code p0301

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Could be the injector but the coil packs are a known issue on this engine as well.

 

Maybe do a compression check on cylinder 1 to rule out lack of compression first?

Edited by TMB
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hi thanks for reply... while I am waiting for injector to turn up I did a bit more digging. it would make sense that when taking connector off injector on number 1 would make no difference if there was no spark in the first pace.

 

So had a re- think and with luck euro...parts  have a bit of a Halloween sale on at moment. A  new coil pack went from over £100 down to £70 and with Halloween sale £42 so picked one up yesterday.

Fitted it and straight away fixed the problem. all I wasted was £11 on an injector which I will keep as a spare.

 

So far no warning lights, no misfire and all is well. well is say no problems when I took it for test drive I could hear a rumble from the front which I said to my .daughter is a wheel bearing. She replied that it had made that noise for ages and didn't really bother her!!!!!     Now waiting for a wheel bearing to turn up.

 

Thanks for all your help..         great website

cliff

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