Skoda Fabia 1.9 TDI ATD

[elaasi]

 Hi guys, 

 

I've recently bought a 1.9 TDI ATD Skoda Fabia, 2004. The thing is that I like to understand properly everything that I have and I love to do things myself, but unfortunately, there was no one in my childhood to teach me about the cars (and I was not that interested, to be honest). What are the tips and advice for maintaining a 1.9 TDI engine, I know people usually say that TDI is a good engine? And maintaining a Skoda Fabia, it already is kind of rusty, especially at the doors handles and has some little issues here and there, that I will try to fix as time passes. Also, does anyway have seen somewhere a kind of easy guide of understanding the parts in the engine, like where is what, I was looking at this website https://cars-info.eu , that is amazing, but it is a little complicated, maybe there was someone at some point that had a video or photos explaining the TDI engine, for newbies. 

 

Cheers! 

[sepulchrave]

You really don't have to worry about the engine, the PD100 is the most reliable Fabia of all, just observe the service schedule and all will be well.

[mogwye]

Buy a Hayne's Fabia manual.

 

DB.

 

[elaasi]

Hi, mogwye, yes I have it, the previous owner left it with the car, and it's good, it's really good for the maintenance, what I would like to have a guide of, the parts locations, and what they do. 

 

And sepulchrave, thanks again, you've replayed me for another post too, what about the, I am not sure how it is called (sorry English not my native language) the undercarriage (that's how Google is translating it), cause sometimes I can hear different noises and things. How is Fabia from that point of view, are there things that I should know & worry about? Cause the car has about 380.000 km and the previous owner wasn't, how to say, too careful with the car. 

 

Thanks for the reply guys, and sorry for not very clear questions, I am just learning about how a car works.

 

Cheers 

[TMB]

Parts catalogue here...

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/

[elaasi]

1 minute ago, TMB said:

Parts catalogue here...

 

https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/fabia/fab/

Thanks, looks nice, now I've got things to do for the night

[TMB]

11 minutes ago, elaasi said:

Thanks, looks nice, now I've got things to do for the night

 

Yes, have a good read

[aubrey]

Always only use PD engine oil. VW505.01 or VW507.00 spec. Changing the oil filter is so easy as you do it from the top. The only underneath work required is removing and replacing the sump drain bolt.

[elaasi]

1 hour ago, aubrey said:

Always only use PD engine oil. VW505.01 or VW507.00 spec. Changing the oil filter is so easy as you do it from the top. The only underneath work required is removing and replacing the sump drain bolt.

thanks for the reply, yes I am planning to change the oil myself, I bought kroon oil, its a Dutch brand, got it a really good price, and it has the VW 507.00 specification, also planning to change the air filter and fuel filter. About the sump drain bolt, didn't know that it needs to be replaced, thanks 

[aubrey]

19 minutes ago, elaasi said:

About the sump drain bolt, didn't know that it needs to be replaced, thanks 

 

When I wrote that I only meant about under the engine you only have to remove the drain bolt (warming the engine before is a good idea as warm oil flows out better) and then to put the drain bolt back. However officially yes, the bolt is meant to be replaced. I think it is the washer that is officially one use, more so than the bolt. They are very cheap to buy.

However I must admit I have done a few oil changes and not changed the drain bolt and I've never had any leaks.

[VWD]

On oil changes, one comment from a well-versed poster was to drain oil from the sump ( after getting it hot of course) and then look at removing the oil filter. IF the 1.9 is similar to 1.4, then the sump plug is the only hex nut on the lower engine( all other hex inserts are gearbox plugs). I've never replaced sump plug in past, but as the washer is crush type, I consider circa £2.5 GB a small price to pay for peace of mind.

[lupoluke]

7 hours ago, elaasi said:

Hi, mogwye, yes I have it, the previous owner left it with the car, and it's good, it's really good for the maintenance, what I would like to have a guide of, the parts locations, and what they do. 

 

And sepulchrave, thanks again, you've replayed me for another post too, what about the, I am not sure how it is called (sorry English not my native language) the undercarriage (that's how Google is translating it), cause sometimes I can hear different noises and things. How is Fabia from that point of view, are there things that I should know & worry about? Cause the car has about 380.000 km and the previous owner wasn't, how to say, too careful with the car. 

 

Thanks for the reply guys, and sorry for not very clear questions, I am just learning about how a car works.

 

Cheers 

 

I think undercarriage translates to chassis over here,  overall there fairly solid cars how ever the front suspension arm rear console bushes are prone to failing, these can be upgraded with polybushes or upgraded OEM items. 

 

There is a really good thread with all the common things on the mk1 somewhere if you search for it.  

 

Here is an SSP on the PD engines different engine code to yours and does have some slight differences but will give you a general idea  of how they work.  

 

http://www.myarchive.us/richc/VW_TDI_with_PumpeDuse.pdf

 

Sump plug is the one with an integrated seal and should be replaced.  

 

Hope this helps. 

[elaasi]

Hi, again, thanks for all the replies, really useful, yet I have another question, I have an issue with the front driver door, it just won't stay open, even if I am not on a hill, it constantly hits my legs, and it is not that nice. I have read about it and people are saying that there is a "something" called door stay, and it needs to be replaced, but I can't find any videos or guides on how to change it. How difficult is it?

 

Cheers!  

[JWvrs25]

Always replace the sump bolt and do not overtighten it. I was unfortunate enough to learn that my recently purchased car had a slight oil leak. Went to tighten sump plug and it was just spinning. New sump required in the end, much more expensive than just replacing the whole bolt once a year with the service. I paid £2 for a replacement plug.

[sepulchrave]

1 hour ago, clarendon462 said:

Always replace the sump bolt and do not overtighten it. I was unfortunate enough to learn that my recently purchased car had a slight oil leak. Went to tighten sump plug and it was just spinning. New sump required in the end, much more expensive than just replacing the whole bolt once a year with the service. I paid £2 for a replacement plug.

 

You could have helicoiled the old sump, much cheaper and easier, M14 x 1.25 IIRC.

[JWvrs25]

Thats not the point i was making though. preventation is better than cure in this case

I would have had to take the sump off either way so just getting a brand new one was the best option as i didnt know what state it might have been in

[sepulchrave]

47 minutes ago, clarendon462 said:

Thats not the point i was making though. preventation is better than cure in this case

I would have had to take the sump off either way so just getting a brand new one was the best option as i didnt know what state it might have been in

 

Nah, you can helicoil it in-situ, just fill the tap with grease and cut it slowly, then wind the insert in backwards and pull the tail off with rat-nosed pliers before pouring some used engine oil back through to flush any alloy swarf back out. Job jobbed.

[JWvrs25]

My problem was the sump plug wouldnt come out even with force with mole grips. And i discovered lots of metal shavings in the sump after it was removed. Wouldnt have wanted to risk it

[sepulchrave]

Fairy nuff.

[elaasi]

31 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Nah, you can helicoil it in-situ, just fill the tap with grease and cut it slowly, then wind the insert in backwards and pull the tail off with rat-nosed pliers before pouring some used engine oil back through to flush any alloy swarf back out. Job jobbed.

Hell there is a lot of slang :))) 

[elaasi]

Hi again guys, 

 

I have yet other questions. 

 

1. Is it ok to warm up the car, in idle before going anywhere? I have seen some posts that are saying that the diesel engine should not be warmed up in idle, rather just going after ~20 sec. The thing is that I am from DK and here the cold kind of came up negative in the night, ~1-3 C in the day and I really don't mind warming it up for 15 minutes.  I can smoke my cigarette, go around the car, wait for the windows to clean up so on. But is it bad or ok, and if it is bad, how bad is it? 

 

2. And here comes the second question, as I sad I usually warm up the car for like 15 minutes, and I have seen, in the last days, that after ~7 minutes of staying in idle the ASR (a skidding car) appears and...if I turn off (I am not sure how properly used is "turn off" for the engine, but I will go with it) the engine and then back in the first position, everything except the engine light goes off, when starting the engine, the abs and asr lights are coming back for like 5 sec and then everything is good. 

 

How bad is this, should I worry/do something?

 

I hope you understood what I wrote there, not that I am reading it I realize how bad at explaining things I am. 

 

Cheers! 

[sepulchrave]

What about your battery light, that should go out when you start the engine unless it's not coming on at all?

[elaasi]

9 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

What about your battery light, that should go out when you start the engine unless it's not coming on at all?

No, when I start the engine everything goes out (except the handbrake if it is the case) 

[Breezy_Pete]

1. No problem letting it idle to warm up a bit.

2. ASR light coming on after 10 minutes usually indicates that the DFM wire from alternator to ECU has broken (usually at a plug/socket connection on the front of the gearbox). If you follow this link you should see some photos which may help you locate the connection.

 

"Turn off" the engine is clear enough, we would normally say "switch off".

 

 

[elaasi]

2 minutes ago, Wino said:

1. No problem letting it idle to warm up a bit.

2. ASR light coming on after 10 minutes usually indicates that the DFM wire from alternator to ECU has broken (usually at a plug/socket connection on the front of the gearbox). If you follow this link you should see some photos which may help you locate the connection.

 

"Turn off" the engine is clear enough, we would normally say "switch off".

 

 

 

Thanks for the fast reply, can it be, because of the fact that the pins that hold ECU to its place (basically the wall) are broken, so it kind of, just stays in there? Is it fixable home, or I should better not get into the electric part?