Felicia carburetor tune?

[Musescu_A]

Currently I have managed to set the idling speed correctly because sometimes the idle was too low and the battery wasn't being charged properly (headlights light was low unless I accelerated). Now I must have an issue with air/fuel mixture because I have several reasons to believe that it's running rich:

• Smell of gas can be felt inside/outside the car when it's running at temperature;
• Fuel consumption is way too high (10 l/100km while doing 70-90 km/h extraurban);
• Exhaust pipe is dripping when cold and it's black.

 

From my research the carburetor is a copy of the Pieburg 2e3 but I cannot seem to find the mixture screws because the picture is different from reality. Behind the throttle lever there seems to be only the idling screw which I have already messed with.

 

P.S.: My apologies if this isn't the right section.

Edited 3 January, 2018 by Musescu_A

[cheshire_cat]

dripping when cold I guess is just condensation in the exhaust (guess it's pretty cold where you are now)   black is obviously rich but the best guide would be plug colour  (chocolate brown for a good mixture) I would check 24/25/26 and 27 plus the rubber pipes attached and for hot water to 26 when the engine is warmed up

[Musescu_A]

On 1/4/2018 at 18:57, cheshire_cat said:

dripping when cold I guess is just condensation in the exhaust (guess it's pretty cold where you are now)   black is obviously rich but the best guide would be plug colour  (chocolate brown for a good mixture) I would check 24/25/26 and 27 plus the rubber pipes attached and for hot water to 26 when the engine is warmed up

I took out the spark plugs and there is a different one in the first cylinder, I have no idea why but I hope it doesn't make any difference (just bought the car):

 

 

 

Also, I took the hose from the airfilter because I found a hole in it, is this supposed to be connected to some kind of hose? There's also a thing that looks something like a sensor, is that meant to be connected somewhere?

 

The sensor??? I was talking about:

[cheshire_cat]

I was going from my time with vauxhall on the carb question so no direct experience you you car   BUT  you have at least two completely different plugs there which could be of different heat range and there for running hotter or colder than the others   SO I would fit a correct (new) set of plugs   does it have contact breaker points?  if so check clean and re gap  if not check the distributor cap for cracks and the internal "contacts" for "scaling" up also the rotor arm   the last photo shows the air temp sensor which may be connected to the hot air intake (for cold weather).   the pipe you point to is from the manifold to the distributor advance retard mechanism and should be sound  check distributor action by removing cap and sucking on pipe  it should move inside back and to  finally get the ignition timing set with the engine running (timing light required) engine warm usually at tickover and usually vac pipe(illustrated) removed

[Musescu_A]

I wont mess up the ignition timing if i take out the cap of the distributor, correct?

[cheshire_cat]

no, only if you move the distributor (rotate) or alter the points (a lot)  (if it has points and a condenser)   note the rotor should pull off it has an internal peg to relocate properly,  make sure it's clean not broken and the distibutor cap is free of dust and dirt with no hairline cracks (in the plastic) and the inner metal posts are not crudded up or corroded away  (sparks like a clean dry surface to jump across   :-)  )

[Musescu_A]

Seems like oil got inside the distributor and it made a mess in there. I didn't get any nudges while driving and imo the engine doesn't run that bad, there's just a slight rattle probably because of the chain.

[cheshire_cat]

may be come up the driveshaft  because of crankcase pressure  just clean up---- and check the breather system is working OK

[KenONeill]

@Musescu_A - Before attempting to adjust the carburetor, fit new spark plugs, clean the distributor interior, and then adjust the hot dynamic timing using either a strobe light or a "calibrated ear" (you need someone who already has one to help calibrate your's since you're asking).

[Musescu_A]

Ok, I'll buy new spark plugs and also get a strobe gun then i'll come back here and tell what worked and what didn't.

 

The scale for ignition timing is on the crankshaft pulley, correct?

Edited 15 January, 2018 by Musescu_A

[KenONeill]

@Musescu_A - No. The scale (fixed marks) is on the block, and the single moving mark is on the crank pulley. It may also be a good idea to replace the contact breaker points (if fitted) before trying to time the ignition in.

 

Once you know the HT electrics and timing are correct, then you can adjust idle speed and maybe mixture, noting that the mixture screw may be covered by a plastic blank.

[cheshire_cat]

whilst your working you way round the ignition system it wouldn't hurt, if you have an Ohm meter(multimeter)  to check the resistance of each plug lead (DON@T mix them up)   value is not so important as all having similar readings (20kOhms? ) from memory

[Musescu_A]

Okay, I have changed the spark plugs and now I don't have anymore stuttering on idle.

 

Check the reisistance between the lead and the engine block?

 

EDIT: Also is there a problem with the vacuums if the engine revs by itself when I pump the brake pedal?

Edited 20 January, 2018 by Musescu_A

[cheshire_cat]

check just the length of each lead  or combined with the D cap each contact in there to the inside of the plug cap  --- re:  the brake sounds like you have a vac leak (on the servo system?)  split pipe or duff non return valve--- this could be leaking air into the manifold  altering the mixture when pumping the brake

[Musescu_A]

On 1/20/2018 at 19:02, cheshire_cat said:

check just the length of each lead  or combined with the D cap each contact in there to the inside of the plug cap  --- re:  the brake sounds like you have a vac leak (on the servo system?)  split pipe or duff non return valve--- this could be leaking air into the manifold  altering the mixture when pumping the brake

Sorry for the really late reply but I had exams plus some other problems appeared and I had to adress them first.

 

Apparently when pumping the brake continously it's normal for the revs to increase.

 

So far I have changed:

• The spark plugs one more time as after 150km they got blacked out again;
• The entire set of spark plug leads (5 cables in total);
• The rotor of the distributor;
• The carbon brush on top of the distributor.

Also I tried checking the ignition timing by putting the first cylinder in top dead center and checking the position of the distributor. The rotor was in front of the spark plug nr. 1 when the timing scale read -1, -2 degrees (I had to give an approximation since the scale unit is 5).

The car runs smoother and doesn't stutter anymore when letting off the gas. But...

 

I found the mixture screw and it's stuck. I can't turn it either way with the engine cold or warm. I tuned a bit the accelerator pump because it was turned all the way. Now when I accelerate in neutral the car doesn't hesitate before it revs, like it did before.

 

After I finish some electrical and brake caliper issues I'll take it for a spin and come back here to see if it was from the ignition or the actual carburetor is decalibrated.

[KenONeill]

@Musescu_A - The spark plugs sooted up because you haven't cured the rich running yet! When was the air filter last cleaned out or replaced?

[Musescu_A]

On 2/6/2018 at 11:36, KenONeill said:

@Musescu_A - The spark plugs sooted up because you haven't cured the rich running yet! When was the air filter last cleaned out or replaced?

I was told it was changed last year. About cleaning, I have no idea how to do it so I think I'll just order a new one.

[KenONeill]

@Musescu_A - OK, you can't clean a paper element beyond shaking it to get sand grains, dead insects and the like out. What you can do is clean that sort of stuff out of the filter case when it's open.

 

Also, if there's a dark circular mark on one side of the element, put it back in so that this mark is on the opposite side of the case from the intake.