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BRAKE FLUID CHANGE


kwmax

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have superb 2013 from new 24.000 FSH i note that 1st brake fluid change is at 3 years. then it drops to 2yrs just wondered why? Car came with 3 yrs  free service now coming up to 5yrs old so do I go for 3 again any suggestions.

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You are changing the Brake Fluid because there might be moisture in it (H2o),  that would cause corrosion.

So from new to 3 years the Brake Hoses, pipes, seals are new. 

then at 3 years, they are 3 years old. and the time reduces to doing each 2 years.

 

It used to be first at 2 years, then each 2 years.

 

You can test the Brake fluid for H2o, you can buy better brake fluid, you can ignore Service Schedules / guidelines. 

but they are there for safety and for Dealerships to get work / profits.

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13 minutes ago, AwaoffSki said:

 

You can test the Brake fluid for H2o, you can buy better brake fluid, you can ignore Service Schedules / guidelines. 

but they are there for safety and for Dealerships to get work / profits.

 

What happens if you don't :-

 

My dad had a Volvo 740 which he had owned for about 8 years when I found out he had never had the brake fluid change.

 

I procede to change it and discovered a few things:-

  • The brake fluid resevoir wasn't black - it changed colour as the brake fluid was drawn through
  • The colour of the fuild bled out was awful and cloudy and tinged with rust
  • Had to strip and check master cylinder and  calipers (actually weren;t too bad)
  • Had to replace the brake compensator and dual circuit warning valves as they were dripping rust

 

Saying that the Volvo did have one advantge - Each front brake caliper had two brake circuits, so if a circuit failed you always the remaining circuit operating both front brake calipers and one rear

 

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Do You know the amount of the brake fluid that is needed?

i got an offer from a dealer and they qouted 1,2 liter. 

I would order separately and i am wondering if one liter is enough?what is the spec?

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bigjohn,

Nothing might happen, many cars have never had brake fluid changed ever, or only when something gives, leaks, servos, cylinder seals, 

corroded pipes.

 

It is called preventative Servicing & Maintenance doing things to help save expenses.

 

Different strokes for different folks, and environments and use etc.

There are even crap cars that are scrap by 8 years old, and others that are as near good as new at 18 years compared to MOT failing ones at 5 years old.

Edited by AwaoffSki
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According to the service manual you should drain 0.3 l from each of the the rear calipers and 0.2 l from the front ones, so that's 1 liter.

If you have a manual gearbox the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder should be drained together with the brakes as the clutch shares the fluid with the brake system - service manual states that 0.15 l should be drained from the slave cylinder.

 

The order of bleeding is:

  • Clutch slave cylinder (not if you have a DSG gearbox obviously :) )
  • Right rear caliper
  • Left rear caliper
  • Right front caliper
  • Left front caliper

According to the service manual you should use new brake fluid that conform to USA standard FMVSS 571.116 DOT4 and VW standard 501.14.
(It seems that the VW 501.14 is a low viscosity version of the DOT 4 fluid that works better with ESP?)

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11 hours ago, Joakim said:

The order of bleeding is:

  • Clutch slave cylinder (not if you have a DSG gearbox obviously :) )
  • Right rear caliper
  • Left rear caliper
  • Right front caliper
  • Left front caliper

 

Is that for LHD vehicles???

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On 1/30/2018 at 18:43, 26DIPP said:

RHD,

I questioned it and was told that the longest brake line is from ABS module to right rear. The brake ABS module sits in the left of the engine bay.

 

I only asked really as joakim is in Sweden, and they drive on the right.

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12 hours ago, williamshatnerspants said:

I've been too scared to do my own brake fluid changes on the Superb as I've been told the ABS pump has to be cycled.... keen to hear thoughts on this.

 

I really think that's only necessary if the brake system is drained or has air taken into the brake circuits via the (empty) reservoir.

 

Edited by xman
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20 minutes ago, xman said:

 

I really think that's only necessary if the brake system is drained or has air taken into the brake circuits via the (empty) reservoir.

 

 

And even then you can still get away without doing it if you have some patience and a gallon of brake fluid :D

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Isn't it worth draining the reservoir first (with the brake pedal pressed to prevent air getting into ststem) and refill with fresh fluid to save pumping old fluid through system and diluting new?

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10 hours ago, Gdcobra said:

Isn't it worth draining the reservoir first (with the brake pedal pressed to prevent air getting into ststem) and refill with fresh fluid to save pumping old fluid through system and diluting new?

 

Bit risky re letting air in and where would you drain from. That brake fluid is horrible stuff if you get it on any car bodywork.

 

One option to do this would be to bleed the clutch slave cylinder first as it's fed from the same resevoir

 

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11 hours ago, Gdcobra said:

Isn't it worth draining the reservoir first (with the brake pedal pressed to prevent air getting into ststem) and refill with fresh fluid to save pumping old fluid through system and diluting new?

 

You always remove the old stuff first, otherwise every bit of fresh fluid you put in your just contaminating it with the old fluid.

 

No need to press the brake pedal, just make sure you don't touch it while there is no fluid in the res.

Edited by SuperbTWM
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How can the fluid absorb water if the lid isn't off the master cylinder? The system is air and water tight. My friend has a 10 year old mondeo with nigh on 400 k miles and is still on it's  original fluid to no apparent ill effects.

Edited by terrytowelling
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13 hours ago, bigjohn said:

 

Bit risky re letting air in and where would you drain from. That brake fluid is horrible stuff if you get it on any car bodywork.

 

One option to do this would be to bleed the clutch slave cylinder first as it's fed from the same resevoir

 

That's exactly why I said to press (and hold) the brake pedal. With pedal pressed the reservoir is isolated from the hydraulic system. No risk of letting air in.

I do this on my bike brakes and completely empty and clean the res' container before re-filling.

I usually suck the fluid out with a large syringe, with a little care there is no mess and this should also be possible with a car reservoir.

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