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Hello !

 

its my first question soo .. lets start.

 

which are the original skoda octavia 75kw BFQ 1.6 engine spark plugs ? are those NGK PFR6Q ? or some others ? and is it a problem if i run 10 W 40 motor oil in stead of 5 W 30 thats recomanded since ive got 140k kilometers on a clock.... i hope i am understadable and clear with the questions :)

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its a 2004 but i dont know if thats also manufacturing year, its bought than. i dont know why didnt they write it down on a service book or somewhere, its really confusing. about the oil, i was using 5W30, but the last mechanic said that oil is good for a new car but over time its a good idea to change to a 10W40 ... and he is not the first person to tell me that, so i wonder if that true at all

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5W40 might be a better choice. Same viscosity cold, but a little thicker at operating temperature.  Shouldn't be required, but if the car is consuming oil the higher viscosity may slow the rate of loss.

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7 minutes ago, djape92 said:

its a 2004 but i dont know if thats also manufacturing year, its bought than. i dont know why didnt they write it down on a service book or somewhere, its really confusing. about the oil, i was using 5W30, but the last mechanic said that oil is good for a new car but over time its a good idea to change to a 10W40 ... and he is not the first person to tell me that, so i wonder if that true at all

 

I'll be using 10W-40. It's a 15 yrs. old vehicle 

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Mechanic already tanked the 10W40 so i have to use it for know, but as it says originally to use 5W30 i wanted to know your opinions if i should switch back or rather stay at this one... 5W40 full synthetic is a bit pain to find here in bosnia, and since mechanic told me that oil ring on pistons are stuck and it uses more oil than it should, so its not smart to have to go miles and miles just looking for right oil to buy, so thats the reason i am staying at these options 5W30 and 10W40 the most common oils here.

 

 

so oem sparks for my sedan are beru sparks ?

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@djape92 - How did your mechanic establish that the oil control rings are seized? I only know 2 methods of doing this, an dry and wet compression test, and dismantling the engine!

 

As for the spark plugs, IMO you're asking the wrong question. What you really want to know is not which brand is VAG OEM, but which brand is best for your engine? These are not always the same thing.

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well i hit the oil pan and got my engine dry so he has processed the engine block as well as the cranckshaft, so when they took the piston and try to press the third ring - the one with the twisted ring in between it didnt "breathe" ring was stuck and didnt regulate the oil flow as it should - he told. But changing that is too expensive for me right now so i left it for the next year to fix... but what i could do for my engine is buy some new sparks, but since it sometimes fires sime time it suddenly shuts down - rarely... idles a bit more stuttering than it should i am thinking about finding factory original sparks for my car... thats why im here mainly since there is a lot of crappy things about sparks online... its and 75kw with a lil bit of ecu tunning - i guess... sooo im guessing around 120 hp.... i think factory original sparks would do just fine.... whats you opinion ?

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Wino told you which s/plugs are correct for your engine Beru 14FGH-7 DTURX

Never switch back to thinner oil as it may flush all carbon under piston rings (contaminated over years) and then you will need top-up oil every 500 miles...

If you took the oil sump off, try to fill cylinders with liquid paraffin and leave it overnight.

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ohh, i dodnt know that... maybe thats why they are seized ... when ive got the car i used 5W30, even tho my mom told me that mechanic that was working on it before put the 10W40, and i switched back to it now... maybe that carbon has made those piston rings glued to a piston so they cant get loose... the new mechanic did try to loosen them but no success, they were left over night in parafin, diesel and also blown with the compressed air so i my guess is i have to brake them, take them off and get the new one... but since the engine is fixed without changing them and sealed again, i cant fix that at this time... thanks for the info guys i really appreciate it ! i will go with the beru sparks and see if the engine runs smoother, i truely hope so

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well those Ngk sparks already where in my engine and the engine was too shaky - engine wasnt working calm it had its own trembling... i was looking for beru sparks but i could find a dealer for those and i ended up using bosch +7 with 2 pins or whatever those are called and i have to say my engine is calm and less noisy has better power and runs smoother... if you want me to take a pic of the box i can do that so you guys can try and see if these work good for you too... whats your opinion on bosch sparks ? is 2 pins better than 3 that ngk is using ? any pros and cons ? if you know more than i do please write a comment and present your own expirience or knowledge :) i hope i made a good choice choosing those bosch sparks :S

s-l300.jpg

Edited by djape92
added pic of the similar spark plugs
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The outer pins are the earth electrodes. Any claimed advantage of multi-earth electrode plugs over single electrode ones is based on lower erosion rates meaning that the gap stays in spec for longer (based on an argument that the spark always takes the shortest path from the centre electrode to the earth(s)).

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thats true, but more earth elecrodes means less space for combustion and angles from which fuel can "pickup" that ignition... thats why brisk manufactured spark without earth electrodes... and thats probably why ngk with 3 pins runs poorly compared to others i guess... even tho it should be opposite but... oh well.. its just the way it is

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