Jump to content

4 wheel alignment after eibach pro


Recommended Posts

so as the title suggests got my springs on, all seems well.  took it for 4 wheel alignment originally seemed fine, now ive noticed the steering sits very slightly right and if i centre the wheel pulls to the left slightly.

can someone have a look at the alignment report and see if it looks ok, the bottom right they said the bush is slightly worn and if they tap the tyre it goes green so too small to adjust.

 

 

 

alignment.JPG

Edited by Gissin
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That alignment is less than optimal.

 

At the front:

1) I'd be asking why they haven't taken a caster reading.  Caster will affect which way the vehicle drifts and is (slightly) adjustable on these vehicles.

2) They need to move the cross-member so that the cambers are equal or slightly more on the LHS. The extra -ve on the RHS will cause a LH drift.  NB: Moving the x-member also changes the caster slightly.  You need to have a think what you are doing.  Edit: If the struts have been out, they might steal a bit of adjustment by undoing the top mounts and using the bolt clearance to move the stut a fraction (every little bit helps).

3) Toe looks OK but I usually work in mm, so I'm just guessing.  I'd aim for 1-2mm total toe (in)

 

Rear:

RH camber is obviously wrong as it's red.  In reality, they are both "wrong" unless you drive around corners ridiculously fast.  Too much negative camber and you'll get saw-toothing on the inner edge.  Aim for somewhere between -1.0 to -1.25.

Toe is probably OK.  Again, I'd go conservative and aim for total toe of around 0-2mm (in).  0 (parallel) might feel a bit loose to some people...

 

The steering wheel off centre should fix itself when the drift is sorted.

 

Ask if they've ever adjusted the front camber using the subframe.  If they haven't, I'd ask for a refund and go somewhere that knows what they are doing.

Edited by brad1.8T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/22/2018 at 08:52, PatS9 said:

It looks pretty much the same as mine apart from caster and camber but I've got poly bushes and anti lift kit on it

20180221_214823.jpg

how that could be in the green with those figures I do not know.  Did the tech have a green highlighter or something? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He printed and adjusted the car right in front of me. I did mentioned that the car is lowered with new top mounts, shocks, springs, as well as fully polybushed up front with anti lift kit which does increase caster. Subframe aligment is not possible since I've used collar kit from Tyrolsport. Lastly I did notice saw tooth wear on the rear tyres which had done less than 2000 miles and I didn't notice any marks on them before.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, brad1.8T said:

That alignment is less than optimal.

 

At the front:

1) I'd be asking why they haven't taken a caster reading.  Caster will affect which way the vehicle drifts and is (slightly) adjustable on these vehicles.

2) They need to move the cross-member so that the cambers are equal or slightly more on the LHS. The extra -ve on the RHS will cause a LH drift.  NB: Moving the x-member also changes the caster slightly.  You need to have a think what you are doing.  Edit: If the struts have been out, they might steal a bit of adjustment by undoing the top mounts and using the bolt clearance to move the stut a fraction (every little bit helps).

3) Toe looks OK but I usually work in mm, so I'm just guessing.  I'd aim for 1-2mm total toe (in)

 

Rear:

RH camber is obviously wrong as it's red.  In reality, they are both "wrong" unless you drive around corners ridiculously fast.  Too much negative camber and you'll get saw-toothing on the inner edge.  Aim for somewhere between -1.0 to -1.25.

Toe is probably OK.  Again, I'd go conservative and aim for total toe of around 0-2mm (in).  0 (parallel) might feel a bit loose to some people...

 

The steering wheel off centre should fix itself when the drift is sorted.

 

Ask if they've ever adjusted the front camber using the subframe.  If they haven't, I'd ask for a refund and go somewhere that knows what they are doing.

I'll ask about caster, I assumed as it's greyed out they don't have the ability to test it it's  Hunter Hawkeye they use.

 

rear toe what do you mean about having more toe in? will this ''loose'' feeling effect the free play in the steering as it used to be very direct move the sterring a few mm and the car started to move now it feels like it has about 5mm either way before it does anything.

 

cant ask for a refund it was a mate doing it for free

Link to comment
Share on other sites

From picking up my vRS brand new at the dealer my steering wheel was always slightly off-centre. I'd had eibach springs from new so I had a 4 wheel alignment done at a Skoda dealer and the steering wheel came straight but the rear tyre wear was rapid and the inner edges went in no time. Had the car re-done at an Audi dealer and the steering went back to slightlying off-centre but tyre wear thereafter was perfect. No saw toothing and even wear across the tread.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, Gissin said:

I'll ask about caster, I assumed as it's greyed out they don't have the ability to test it it's  Hunter Hawkeye they use.

 

rear toe what do you mean about having more toe in? will this ''loose'' feeling effect the free play in the steering as it used to be very direct move the sterring a few mm and the car started to move now it feels like it has about 5mm either way before it does anything.

 

cant ask for a refund it was a mate doing it for free

Of course they can check Caster on a Hawkeye.  He hasn't done it because he was doing a freebie.

 

I said I would set total toe-in at rear conservatively.  Off the top of my head the specs are 0-4mm  and closer to parallel rolls a bit better.  When you have the wheels dead parallel (0mm) the back end can tend to wander a bit (feel loose).  I doubt the alignment is causing the 5mm of slop in the steering.  You possibly didn't notice it before & the other changes have highlighted it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Sarge said:

From picking up my vRS brand new at the dealer my steering wheel was always slightly off-centre. I'd had eibach springs from new so I had a 4 wheel alignment done at a Skoda dealer and the steering wheel came straight but the rear tyre wear was rapid and the inner edges went in no time. Had the car re-done at an Audi dealer and the steering went back to slightlying off-centre but tyre wear thereafter was perfect. No saw toothing and even wear across the tread.  

interesting - my wheel used to be dead centre and the car drove perfectly straight.

 

so far racked up 18k on current tyres and no uneven wear and still plenty of life in them

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Gissin said:

anyone know what the optimal settings I'm looking for - might give skoda a call and see what they recommend?

If my experiences of asking Škoda anything technical is anything to go by, you'd  be better off interpreting the entrails of a freshly sacrificed chicken. 

 

Then selling it to KFC. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Gissin said:

anyone know what the optimal settings I'm looking for - might give skoda a call and see what they recommend?

They'll just quote the book specifications which is great if the car is fresh, the springs haven't sagged, the dampers are new and the bushes haven't started to decay. 

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/axles_steering/wheels_tyres._axle_align/chassis_specified_values_of_steering_geometry/front_axle_specified_values_of_steering_geometry/

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/axles_steering/wheels_tyres._axle_align/chassis_specified_values_of_steering_geometry/rear_axle_specified_values_of_steering_geometry/

front

http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/octavia-mk2/axles_steering/wheels_tyres._axle_align/vehicle_alignment/

 

caster will be around 7'40".  They should be equal or a fraction more on the left. (to account for road camber)

camber should be equal or a fraction more on the left.  On your car it will be about -0.75  once they shift things about.  (-.40 - 1.11=-1.5 / 2 = 0-0.75)

toe in 1-2mm

 

rear camber should be equal and 1degree 20 minutes +- 30mins and I'd get as upright as possible (50m-1degree)

rear  toe 1-2mm in

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.