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Add an illumination in internal door handle from L&K to vRS


TallioN

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A few days ago I also built in the lights, however the result is a little bit disappointing. The lights are not very bright like the first picture in this thread and I am doubting whether I've installed them correctly.

The lights have a straight side and a skewed side and I am thinking why they have made a skewed side. I thought maybe I've installed the lights too low such that the skewed side is not able to shine enough to the inside of the door handle.

Question for the people that have installed these lights and/or people having a L&K edition: should the top of the light be higher than the bottom of the door handle or not? Anyone able to make a close up picture?

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  • 4 years later...

A cheaper, much quicker and I think a far better way of doing this modification is to simply use a green 3mm LED and holder, together with a small resistor, in each door.

It is far easier to drill a single round hole for the LED than it is to cut of the square needed for the Skoda units, and you have the benefit of the illumination being green, matching the panel lights and the existing switch lights in the doors, rather than the standard white. Yes you can colour the white with a marker pen, but it's not easy to get each unit equally marked, which could cause differences in the light level.

Thanks to PeteHuws for giving me the idea to do the newer car this way, and for providing the bits needed!

Mike

Any chance you could post up a link to where you got the parts from for this ?

 

Also in the picture the LED look flush with the trim is that the case ?

 

Many thanks

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I was thinking of trying these.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOD12-QTY-2-3mm-GREEN-FLAT-TOP-12-VOLT-LEDS-WITH-CLIPS-FOR-MODEL-RAILWAY-LIGHTS-/190843646617?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&hash=item2c6f2af299

 

I am also considering hot gluing them in place so they are flush, i.e. only drill a 3mm hole.

Edited by radders567
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It won't break the bank at a fiver for all 4 doors. Interesting to see these don't need resistors. Just a small roll of twin cable speaker wire should do the job nicely.

 

Just remember that when you install them, the longer terminal is the positive one.

 

Mike

 

 

The colours I have wired the LED's into the switch are

 

Brown (-ve) (short terminal of LED)

Grey / pale blue colour (+ve supply) (Long Terminal)

Green & yellow 

 

And they look like they were done in the factory too.

Edited by radders567
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I brought 5 green 3mm LEDs and 5 resistors yesterday from Maplins ,
Not going to use a bezel to hold them as will just put a spot of hot glue on the back of LED to hold it.
Will be having a go at the weekend

Reason for buyin 5 was if I break 1 I can still finish the job and all 5 cost about £5.50
Thanks for the help everybody

Edited by Chickenlicker22
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I googled mine while in maplins , I went for 13.5v  source , voltage drop 2.5 ,Desired LEd Current 25 Milliamps

Maplins didnt have the 4 of the 12v green LEDs so went for the low power ones .

Voltage as I pointed out (in shop) will change as the alternator wont keep it at 12v so 13.5V is what we went for .

On my phone i used                         http://ledcalc.com/ while in the shop  to ensure correct resistor.

That site will also show you the resistor colour .

I sound like a geek with above figures ha ha .

Edited by Chickenlicker22
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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

the price on the led lamps is high here in sweden, 270 swedish kron for one ( 23 pound ) looking at the junk yards now but didnt find , ive check at the ebay and aliexpress but find nothing 

These should do . A lot cheaper than £23

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-20CM-Pre-Wired-Prewired-Ultra-Bright-12V-5mm-LEDs-LED-Light-Lamp-Bulb-NEW-/301157409902?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=600238636545&hash=item461e61646e

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 8 months later...

I have successfully installed mine a few weeks ago.

Thanks everyone for the explanation and pictures :)

 

The greatest challenges were:

- Flattening out the round holes the drilling machine leaves when punching through the hard plastic. It's tricky to both apply pressure and not scratch the inside of the handle.

- Removing the handles. I suggest you get someone with thin fingers who can squeeze in behind through the tweeter cover hole and push the clips off so you don't risk breaking them...

- Be careful with the wires coming out of the light assembly. They are not very well secured and then you will have a PITA connecting it back if it comes off. Make sure you don't fiddle with them too much.

 

Here's the final look and like everyone else said, the front ones are dimmer but I don't mind. That's what the L&K looks like too :D

 

 

IMG_20170506_121717.jpg

IMG_20170506_121724.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...

Hi guys,

Gotta question for the wiring. If I connect them to the wires for the window switch those lights will be always on...whenever the engine is started. Is there a wiring option when the lights will be on when I turn the car lights on?

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