l jones

sorry, thought the 4x4 chassis was the same as the r32 and tt.

neuspeed do a 22mm rear anti roll bar which will fit the 4x4. its for the r32 and helps reduce understeer.

Take a look at the new dump valve kit that neuspeed have brought out for the 1.8t engine, it looks the dogs. Its a HKS super sequential valve, which is a pull design rather than a push. It states it sorts out low speed compressor surge, which can be a common problem with spring operated dump valves. www.neuspeed. com, golf iv engine parts.

The vrs control arms are past parallel as standard. Thats why with standard suspension body roll is excessive. Its a trade off between handling or looks. In the usa, shine racing are the people to talk to to get the best out of the golf iv chassis. The kit they sell comprises of springs, dampers, a mega stiff rear arb and no front arb. The springs set the vehicle platform perfectly level, the front ride height being raised to ensure the front lower arms are parralel to the road. The kit may not have the looks of a lowered vehicle, but the handling is spot on. The audi tt/golf r32 both use drop knuckles on the front hubs to allow a suspension drop of about 1-1.5 inches, whilst still retaining the correct lower arm position. Using tt hubs, however also involves swapping to tt control arms and ball joints as the ball joints are different. H2sport, a canadian company, have developed a vw hub for the golf iv which allows a 2 inch suspension drop, whist retaining correct arm position. The track rods also locate lower on these hubs to prevent any bump steer, which becomes apparant on lowered vehicles. The h2sport hubs are specifically designed for the golf iv and are a direct replacement. The also various lower arms to give more neg camber, if required. Website www.h2sport.com. The current front set up on my vrs is kw 2, powerflex bushes, 25mm arb and neg camber plates sourced from allard motorsport. The camber plates bring the lower arms more parralel and give approx -1.5 degrees of neg camber. I also have a 28mm rear arb set on full stiff. In the dry the set up is awesome. You can hammer it through bends at rediculous speeds, very responsive steering and a touch of lift off oversteer. Body roll is minimal. I could get rid of the oversteer by softening the rear arb, but i like it. The front bar can be a bit stiff in the wet but it makes me behave and i cant be bothered swapping back to the 22mm arb. If anyone wants more info on the camber plates, pm me. The difference on fitting was night and day and ive not noticed any additional tyre wear.

The Valve Is Operatetd By An Actuator, Which Is T'd Into The Turbo. It Opens At About 5 Lbs Boost, So At Idle And Normal Use The Valve Is Shut.

YOU CAN READ ALL ABOUT THIS VALVE ON WWW.ATPTURBO.COM. THERE'S A VIDEO/SOUND CLIP YOU CAN DOWNLOAD AS WELL. SOUNDS TOP.

According To Mike, The Valve Is Good For Knocking Half A Second Off Your Quarter Mile Times As Well.

Spoke To Mike At Impossibe About The New Apt Exhaust Valve. It Fits Into Your Exhaust Before The Cat. Its Boost Actuated, So At Idle And Cruising The Vehicle Is Quiet, As The Valve Is Shut And Gases Travel Along The Normal Exhaust Route. At Full Chat The Valve Opens And The Majority Of Exhaust Gases Are Vented Straight Out To The Floor. So Basically You Can Keep The Factory Fit 2" Exhaust And Have A Mega 3" Decat At Full Throttle. Price Is

I'm Not That Familier With The Furby Chassis. If Its Based On The Vw Polo Then The Old G40 Polo Used To Use A Rear Arb. If Not Then It May Be Possible To Get A Golf 4 On There Instead. I Bet There's Not Much Difference In The Rear Axles, Albeit A Shorter Track. You Could Connect The Arb Rose Joints On The Outside Edge Of The Trailing Arms Instead Of The Inside. If You Look At A Recent Thread Named 'finally Fitted' You'll See What I Mean. Provided The Axle Brackets Fit I Reckon It Will Go On. Neuspeed Do Both A 25 And 28 Mm Rear Bar Both With 3 Stiffness Settings. The 25mm Bar Would Probably Be Better With The Car Being Lighter. It Is Worth The Effort Of Trying To Get A Rear Arb, They Really Do A Good Job Of Sorting Understeer. The Only Other Thing You Can Do Is Remove The Front Bar And Run Stiffer Springs And Dampers. This Lets The Wheels Work Independantly So The Inside Front Wheel Doesn't Go Light. This Is Obviously At The Expense Of Ride Quality.

Cj, Ask James At Jbs To Take You Out In His Octavia. He Has A Quaife Fitted To That. I Went In It A Few Months Ago And Was Impressed. The Car Still Wheel Spins, But Both Wheels Are Spinning Instead Of Just One. Not Surprising Really When You're Trying To Put Over 300 Bhp Through The Front Wheels. The Diff Will Give More Confidence Around The Bends, But You Can Still Get Power Understeer If You're Too Keen With Your Right Foot. Also You Loose The Self Centre Tendency Of The Steering, Meaning Youve Got To Steer The Car Back Straight After A Bend/turn. The Car Will Continue To Turn Otherwise. This Might Not Be Desirable If You Come To Sell The Car On Later. Overall A Top Piece Of Kit, Albeit On The Expensive. Before Buying A Diff, Try Looking At Fitting A Rear Arb. This Will Transform Your Cars Handling. A Stiff Rear Arb Puts More Weight Onto The Inside Front Wheel During A Turn. If You're Cornering Really Hard You Might Get The Inside Rear Wheel Lifting Slightly. That Weight From The Rear Inside Corner Is Put Over The Front Inside Corner Resulting In Far Less Understeer.

I Was Reading An Article About The Haldex System Fitted To The Vag Group Of Cars. It Was Comparing It To Other 4 Wheel Drive Systems And Said It Was One Of The Best Available. Apparantly The Haldex Device Is Rated At 3200nm/2360ld.ft Torque, So It Should Take As Much Power As You Want. Obviously The Gear Box Might Not Be Upto It And Need Mods, But What A Good Do For Anyone Planning Big Power.

Mister Gt, Most Of The Body Roll Of Your Vrs Can Be Sorted By Fitting A Set Of Kw's. I Had Variant 2's, Which Cost About

I Cant Take Anything Away From The Vrs. It Can Hold Its Own With Most On The Move And In The Dry. Slightest Bit Of Damp Though And Its A Different Animal All Together. Its The Appeal Of The Four Wheel Drive Which Is Causing The Problem. The Spec Isnt As Good I Know, But The Extra Traction Might Make Up For It.

It Had A Tremendous Turn Of Speed Thanks To Jabba And More To Come Having Been Booked In For A Gt28rs Upgrade. It Had The Handling To Mach Thanks To Kw, Roll Bars, Camber Plates And Brakes. It Had The Looks, With Mint Paint Work And 19's. The Spotty 17 Year Old Didnt Seem To Understand All This As He Pulled Straight Out Infront Of My Vrs In His Kev'd Up Rover. I Didnt Even Have Time To Hit The Brakes. Result.....airbags Everywhere And Total Loss. Not Happy. Come On Folks Your Opinions Are Requested. What To Replace It With, Another Vrs Or A 4x4 Turbo Estate. Theres Pros And Cons For Each And I Cant Decide.

The Apr Ko4 Is Apparantly A Ko3s, Which Is Modified Internally. Its A Straight Bolt On And Should Be Undetectable. Eurospec Do An E-05 Which Is The Same Turbo With An Even Bigger Exhaust Wheel. Good For 280 Bhp And 315 Lb/ft. You Need In All The Other Bits Though Fmic, Mapping Etc, So It Could Prove Expensive. I Went To Jbs Auto And Had A Go In Their Skoda Rs With The Quaife Diff. The Diff Was Impressive, Lots Of Traction And Gave Confidence On The Bends. Whilst There, They Were Fitting A Jabba Turbo To A Golf. I Was Told They Would Be Offering The Fitting Service In A Couple Of Months. It Maybe Worth Considering As Jabba Have A Waiting List Of 40 People And They Are Still Reluctant To Start Fitting Due To The Down Pipe Not Being Ready.