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It could be one of the ones where the part number is missing from the file. Vag use to do that and have done that or their contractor with the radio icon files. It gets a bit technical. You have to get hold of the firmware file, check the part number list against the one in the radio icon file. You may find a missing part number. Sadly if that's the case you can't edit it in. The files are locked down by the signature. You report it Phonestar and hope they sort it out if that is it.

I bet some scroat has nicked that........

The @outofspec channel use Sat nav for speed setting, in general the Tesla over reports it's speed by at least 10% which is why they set fsd to 85mph where possible

Waiting for paint to dry on the mx5 and another car I kept busy doing little things to this. Popped the rear fog lamp lense off and polished it. Pulled the original spare out and put a serviceable one from the parts car in. Did clean it first. Took the oil cap off to clean it up. Just wire wheeled it to death and gave it some metal Polish. Also Tinted the spotlamps. Before pic I had a fair bit of time, you might realise. Got some bare tools organised and set up for it. Gonna pull the dizzy and coil off the parts car to keep in it, maybe ott But I'm not wanting to be stuck on the side of the road soon.

UK has quite a low speed limit compared to many countries ie France Italy and especially Germant but some US states have quite relatively high speed limits to the UK. Not sure if one can use the 10 %, plus 2% rile in all place ie speedo and tyres possible error percentages. Many EVs ate not great efficiency at high speed Polestars and Tesla seem to be but I would only consider one of those options. My Scenic not great with a Drag Coefficient not much under 0.3. Waiting for more over the air updates to introduce more regen levels including one pedal driving which gives a few miles more range. Better lower rolling resistance tyres would be a good addition. I need my breaks. My bladder is not longer range than even my 65 kwh car !!!! Charging at C times 2 ie 130 kws is good enough but over 200 kws for replacement car is expected with the rapid advancement of EV batteries and UK charging infrastructure.

Not much else on this, had more time than I'd wanted waiting between coats. So I Tinted the fogs and buffed the exhaust tip. Not much better, but mostly no longer brown and manky looking.

Portions of the Idaho, Montana, Nevada, Oklahoma, South Dakota, Texas, Utah, and Wyoming road networks have 80 mph

Realistically how long would you rest stop for a 12.5 hour drive? At a guess: Rest stop every 2.5 hours mean 5 rest stops, at 20min for 1st, 3rd and 5th, 40min for food at 2nd and 4th => 2.33 hours stopped anyway. Slower speed = higher efficiency = less need to charge. Let's also not forget we live in a small island with really over crowded roads. Driving 500 miles takes just as much time.

So, on with what I did today. Yesterday, the left pad carrier bolts were tight as buggery. I think it might have been possible if the car was lifted off the ground sufficiently enough to get maybe a couple of pipes on a wrench to get enough leverage. Another attempt early in the morning was no better, so went absolutely mad. Do not try this at home: Started having at it with the angle grinder. Original plan was to go straight at the bit with the bolts, but the angle grinder was bumping into things like the pad carrier ears and the bearing hub. So just starting taking it out in chunks, as seen above, the bottom ear has already been chopped off. Just basically went at it slow and steady: So ears cut off, bit more on each bit and then the central bit, to leave two separate bits: Started to cut at the bolt, but at an angle as the wheel bearing was in the way. Wasn't actually really necessary, as I decided instead to get a lump hammer out and went at them. They actually started to turn, so then got the socket and wrench on the top: Then some additional thwacks and the bolt started to come free, so with some pliers: Was a case of twisting and hammer thwacks until: So nearly there. The bottom was a little stubborn, but also had enough space for an impact socket with a UJ and extension: That, and additional hammering then saw the bolt start coming free: Then just impacting for about 15 seconds and it comes away: So yeah, very drastic measures, but luckily nothing else was hurt in the process. Would not have been this destructive if another replacement wasn't at hand for sure! I imagine the reason the bolts were stuck was similar to the front struts: Bits of aluminium corrosion, which presumably held the bolts in tighter than normal. So next step is to remove the old calipers. So in goes my trusty bleed hose into a water bottle, and the bleeder loosened: Then to get into the car: Using a brake pedal presser tool to keep the brake pedal pressed in. The workshop manual says at least 60mm, so just pressed it in until about there. This acts as a means of stopping brake fluid going all over the place once the brakes are disconnected. The bleeder being loosened allows the excess fluid to leave, rather than push the pistons on the two calipers out (which would be a potential disaster). My poor Honda Insight in the garage has its own tool with the pedal pressed for about 3 months now! So with that done, got an impact wrench on the banjo bolts to get them loose, would have probably been awkward otherwise as the calipers are just dangling freely: Then just unscrew the bolts and have something underneath to catch excess brake fluid: This is the unchanged right side brake hose, you'll have seen this before. The left side hose has already been replaced before, so I know it's been greased up and should be easy to undo. The right was an unknown. So first step was to remove the hose clip: Which probably if anything went exactly how I thought it would: Not the end of the world, but just a tiny bit fiddly with a hammer and chisel to get that stubborn bit out. With that out, and applying some fire around the union as part of mentally preparing for this, went at it, 11mm union at the bottom and a 17mm spanner around the top: In a non-salty world, the brake hose at the top would be held whilst the brake union at the bottom would be loosened, and that turned until it came free. Over in the UK though, it's the opposite, as there's no way the union would not have seized to the pipe, which this one has. It's a case of doing both until it started to loosen, then holding the bottom union in place whilst the hose at the top is undone. I was then met with: Looks like a copper pipe. So this tells me a repair around here was done before. I'd be very interested to see how that was done, as the pipe run disappears around the fuel tanks and subframe. Shame they didn't put a dab of grease between the union and pipe though, as that would have prevented the seizing. Anyways, repeated this on the other side so the old hoses are now out. Next step was give the wheel bearings a quick clean: Used the angle grinder again, with an abrasive disc, which seems to do a fairly decent job without looking like its ruining things. The right wheel bearing face looked a lot rougher than the left: So took a little longer to clean up: Not sure what the green tint is there, camera must be on the blink. So then its time to start assembling things. I went with the approach of the pad carrier first: With new bolts, slathering corrosion block grease around the middle of the bolt, leaving the ends clean. Then for the left side, slid the brake disc on: With the new stainless retaining bolt, lots of grease. Did it the other way around on the right side, brake disc first. That was probably a tiny bit easier as no need to wiggle the brake disc and whatnot. The brake hoses for now are just twisted onto the unions, with a dab of copper grease on the union threads: Did them hand tight then snugged a little with the 17mm spanner. It looks like I've lucked out in terms of the orientation of the hoses, as they are almost dead on to where they would need to be for the caliper. That's usually why the union is the one that turns, as the hoses should be put in place (with clips) first. Onto the pads: The workshop manual references a grease, which after some searching, looks to be lithium grease, which seemed off. So went with a dab of ceramic brake grease on the ears of the pads before putting them on. I'm hoping that as the carriers are all cleaned up and painted, then rust won't be a factor. Could still be dirt and stuff being a factor though. Then it's the caliper: So greased up the new slider pins with the grease that's supplied, slid them through the rubber boots a few times to make sure its all lubricated, and onto the carrier. I've actually used the old banjo bolt to connect to the caliper, with the requisite new copper washers. Both this banjo bolt and the slider pins were tightened to 35Nm. I've left the tightening of the pad carriers for now, because to be honest, I'm not looking forward to it. Just the clips to do, decided to fill the holes they go in with some corrosion block grease, in an attempt to prevent the nightmares encounted on the old calipers. But essentially, that's the rears done. I'll spend a bit of time tomorrow double checking things and bleeding them through. Decided to then jack up the front right and go about looking at the front calipers. To do so I wanted to turn the wheel to the right to get better access to the pad carrier bolts. Now, with the steering lock on, I nonchalantly pressed the starter assuming it would go into ignition and unlock the steering. Instead the car turned on, as the brake pedal was pressed! Quite surprised but quickly turned off the car and scrambled around. Looks like nothing affected. Small drama over, it was wheel off, and then a 17mm spanner and 13mm to remove the bolts for the caliper: The brake hose is quite long, and help by a clip on the wheel hub, so removed that clip and the hose is long enough to leave the caliper on the floor. Perfect for leaving room to try out the new caliper: Unfortunately the front retaining screw for the brake is buggered on this side, so had to be careful with the brake disc whilst trying to get the wheel on, to see if there's any clearance issues. So it looks like the 17" wheels fit: But unfortunately: The caliper fouls on the face of the wheel. Amusingly these wheels are ET40, the most I could get. With some checking on willtheyfit.com when I was researching wheels, the site says: Which looks to almost be what I appear to be missing to clear the brakes. I wondered if the 19" wheels would have been, then realised I've sold those. So a bit of a bust, took the caliper off and back in the house for now. I don't anticipate the car needing to be used in the immediate future, so for now, just scrambled to get a set of 3mm and 5mm spacers to see whether I can get away with the thinner ones. Amazon for £20.98. Hopefully they'll arrive soonish and I can check all this again. Assuming the spacers are ok, the main obstacle for the front brake replacement is probably the brake hoses. But we'll see how we get on. Maintenance: £2860.27 Upgrades: £4536.80 (+£20.98) Miscellaneous: £820.07

hello, I would also like a firmware update to the latest version, I am currently using version 0435

Thanks Pete and Bob. Yes both helped to some extent. And I think I am further forward to getting the old lock out. I ordered a new lock from Skoda parts, excellent service, ordered Thursday, arrived today. Mfg. date code appears to be 17th April, amazing. My difficulty removing the lock apperas related to the exterior door handle connecting-rod. Now i got the new lock I can see the threaded portion of the exterior handle connecting rod simply clips into the small plastic ball-joint, secored with a flip-over clip. Now i can undo / flip-open the clip on the old lock in-situ, pull the rod out and fingers crossed should then be able to manipulate the lock out of the door. It looks as if I will have to slide the lock upwatds or downwards to get it out. If that's all there is to it I feel a bit daft asking so many questions about it! I'll know more tomorrow when I get time to work on it. Then order handfuls of green clips for the door panel (and others which are rattling).

Stop turning the wheel! Sorry joking funny how they cover the other models in the group but not the Skoda I’m thinking of getting rid of mine they don’t want to know after you’ve paid for it

I have used K&N for tuned cars, for offroaders, where H2o and dust can be an issue. As far as Performance, and possible performance claims with K&N, there can be better air flow with a standard filter sometimes. When mechanics service emergency services vehicles with K&N filters they bin and do not clean them. You have it now so as long as the filter stays clean. Pipercross filters performed better IME. If you want more performance than you have then yes you could go with different plugs not just brands, and ignition coils, Red R8 maybe. Fit a GFB DV+diverter valve. That is the kind of stuff you discuss with the tuner / remapper really.

So that's 4.5 hours charging. He was also speeding for most of the route.

nearly 1,000 miles in 17hrs in a Tesla averaged just under 60mph including charging, driving at 80+mph

No way: I can't figure out which version of the database is installed on the radio; moreover, I tried all the packages available on the first page, but none of them are recognized as an "update" by my radio (I used a USB-C stick formatted in FAT32, and extracted the various archives directly onto the root of the USB stick, not inside subfolders).

Dumb as Homer Simpson. After 30 years still not sure US citizens get the joke of the Simpsons. Springfield is the town that appears in most of the 50 US states. The Homers are average Americans. That said I know some smart US people and they are very rare. Most of the smart people in the US are immigrants, Elon Musk being an exception but as with the current US admin they are great at exploiting situations ie low IQ US voters.

I remembering having a bottle of cyanide antidote by the case hardening area which the instructor said drink with 3 seconds else you would be Brown Bread. Reassuring.

@Ootohere Why do you say that re: the K&N? Yes, it's the box and filter i.e. 57S-9506. Are you able to rephrase your remarks, as I don't really follow I'm afraid. Just stock OEM - are there alternative plugs worth investing in? I did buy some NGK Iridium plugs a while back, but they got changed during a dealer service. When you say coils, do you mean coil packs? If so, what is the benefit of doing so?

@travs Thank you for your thoughts :) May I ask about 2 things you have: Racechip XLR5 throttle adaptor - what are your thoughts? Would you buy again? Did you consider their 'performance increase' products at any point, or are they no match for mapping? Forge 11mm spacers front and rear - I am interested in spacers. What considerations are there when buying such things? I have 18" OEM alloys.

If you want it on Fixed Service regime which makes sense with such a low annual mires it should have gone on 9,400 miles / 372 days for Hand over. They took it off Transit mode and changed it from the Variable / Flexible service of 24 months / 18,000-20,000 miles so easily could have had the Tech change it again before hand over.

Nice posts, and nice work! I, for one, support spending money in the way you better see fit. Lift is too short and all around you there are plenty occasions you spend money in much less useful things ....

A litre should be fine, I'd always say buy an extra one just in case and take it back if you don't need it.

@pab567 With regards to the file/version you sent me, are you able to say when it was produced/released? Also, is it possible to ascertain what has been changed? Superficially at least, there appears to be only minor cosmetic changes, but I appreciate the update will do a lot more than this.