zacherynuk

cool cheers, yep it's wrong - you were right. real component is 3C2820015F - a good deal more expensive :(

Hi, I need to replace a squeaking unit; could somebody please confirm this is the correct part ? http://www.skodaparts.com/product/octavia-a5-fan-blower-motor-2004-2013-30535 Cheers Zach

Ahh, I thought it was just referring to the leather trim... and that the center of the seats were still cloth. cheers

Hi, Has Skoda stopped doing leather interiors altogether for the UK ? I can't seem to find a leather option on any of the configurators - I want a leather Scout.. muddy clothes and wet bums and toddlers on fabric is not something I wish to deal with... Cheers

There may well be - by the time I had decided to rip out the sound deadening I had already removed the water....

Just had a gander in my wheel well for the first time on a long time. over 2" of water :( About 3 big bath towels worth! Have had to discard my sound proofing and dry everything out. Probably worth a check if you havn't looked in a while - espcially if you use your boot everyday like I do!

You must have very nice roads where you live...

The grills on the mark 2 are pretty cheap - I had a side grill stolen (!) and it was only £3 +pp for a enw one, they are fairly brittle. The bumpers (again I have mk2) are wonderful, I was reversed into by a bloke in a warrior with a tow bar and completly mashed my bumper, licence plate in two halves. The chap at the repair house said he was full and would I be wanting it insurence or cash - I said cash, he trollied under the car game it a single whump with his hand and the entire thing sprung out - only the tiniest of marks above the licence plate to show there was even an issue - which has since been repaired the same way you would a stone chip. Full marks for bumper and paintwork resilience. Chap said no cash needed, but if I had a real prang to come back to him and if he saw me in a pub would expect a pint. Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Gluck.

Could just be the sensor... I had one replaced at 3 years / 30k I had limp mode, forced regen and error reset, light on in 48 hours, no limp. Reset again and 50 mile motorway journey for good measure. limp mode. New sensor £140 sorted. (phew)

Jumo ?

I find it interesting that without exception those of us who run cold weather / winter capable tyres swear by them. I have yet to read a negative review, in any regard, yet people who don't run them argue they are not worth the cash. I think a high silicone / soft compund is far better suited to the UK that a performance high density tyre all year round, we're driving a skoda ffs. on the road. with other people.

Despite what people say about cold idling, I think it's the most effective thing to do. I brush the snow and loose hoare frost off (with a floor brush), lets the coils warm up and start her. Then turn everything on max with recirculation, rear heater, lights etc to force the engine to work 200-300revs harder. I then lock the door manually and have a coffee. When I return the car is happy, warm, dehumidified and safe to drive. For a car parked on a driveway, in my humble opinion, this is the only safe way of doing it. I seathe when I see pricks ambling along, freezing cold, wiping their windows with a sponge, unable to use their side windowes, mirrors or anything: they aren't fit to drive as they are doing too many things, are cold, stressed and are not in a position to operate the vehicle safly. Alternatives to idling the car (Which I do not see as a problem with modern engines and engine management) is an electric blower in the vehicle and if extreme enough, you can get detachable magnetic sump warmers. The important thing is that when you leave your drive that both you and the vehicle are ready for the journey. Edit: An important thing to do is to unstick your wipers from the window - loads of people have had their spindles stripped or wiper motor pop. Also bear in mind that once the oil temp starts registering your are pretty much there, you need +12 air flow into the cab really you are literally just waking her up not warming her up. EditEdit: Thinking about it, if engines being at idle in cold were bad, why do we do it in our planes ? Typically we will taxi out to hold, bring the revs to something just above a rattle and wait for the temp guage to twitch before doing our brake and throttle tests - if this was gonna break engines in planes I doubt all the manufacturers would make us do it....

Can you adjust the castor on a basic VAG/ Skoda ? I thought you had to buy upgraded Bushes....

^Diagnostics should always start with the recent changes.

Scales are a machines used for determning the weight or mass of an object. In car usage, they are most often used for determining the poise and weight distribution of a a vehicle. In many cases they are used to facilitate the altering of the cars' dynamics quickly determining the precise weight of the car and each of it's corners, If your wheel sits to the right, but pulls to the left, without wieghing the 4 points, I would hazard a guess that your front nearside shock is maladjusted (if it's adjustable) or plain knackered. If the damper is popped you will get a wallow which will tend for that corner of the car to dip and drag. If the spring is knackered you will get more weight over that corner of the car producing similar results. If the spring preload is adjustable and is too loose you will have better handling than above failure situations, but if bad enough you will drag to the left and point to the right. Any case they are all dangerous and will all hurt your tyres. Worth having somebody have a look at - a proper geo place should have, of course - but if they are only doing toe & camber I doubt it - they would have mentioned it anyways. ATS do suspension too though, don't they ? A few pistonheaders have said good things about: http://www.justcarclinics.co.uk/ in Leeds may be worth you calling around and explaining the symtoms. IMHO It's either suspension or chasis mate, I hope it's the former.