snow_muncher

Golf/Vento Syncro's, 1990's

by the time you've spent anything approaching whats needed to make one of these a useful 4x4 (£5K-£10K) you could have bought an S4/similar Only tune one if you love it At the level of tuning I'm currently at, wouldn't have cost much different starting with a more common EVO or Subaru though, but you don't have anywhere near the same range of parts and services - does make life more difficult

It has to bled too, same system

The 500CP is more common than the 1550 model name US ebay worth a look Petrol lamps are cheap to run, much cheaper than gas Chuck a fair bit of heat too

That Optimus is proper bit of kit Probably worth £100+ Being a storm lamp, they can actually be kicked over without flaring Basically same as modern day Coleman

Some us consider ourselves to be British you know - think of the whole UK as home - like it that way tbh

The idea has been floated before You wouldn't need to do anything to the front diff - the rear pto is powered via the outer casing of the diff Thats the front diff sitting on the transfer box (its an 02M diff/transfer box, but same design) - the rear pto drive splines are below the roller bearing - the splined shaft sitting inside the diff is the right hand driveshaft pto The transfer box has no step-down gearing, the prop runs at 1:1 ratio iirc the rear axle diff casing can be detached from the central haldex diff unit The rear diff is standard type of thing, easy enough to weld up all driver aids can be disabled via vagcom iirc the last chap who thought about went and bought a bmw ..

its karma for sticking with a future classic

The wavetrac is no more advance - its just a torsen lsd with added snake-oil Wavetrac/Peloquin/Quaife are all much of a muchness Get whichever one you can buy and have fitted cheapest

There's a spring inside which if removed, stops it popping up tbh it makes it work better without spring it too - you can clamp it down on the bottle etc But the location as stated is crap I took mine out and replaced it with a little tray as found in VRS's etc

The front brakes are 288mm vs 312mm of the vRS/Anni Golf/S3/TT The rear brakes are un-vented 232mm vs 256mm vented disk from an S3/TT/R32 The front 312mm setup is generic across the range The 256mm rears need to come from an S3,TT or R32 (2wd cars have wrong offset) The engine dogbone mount is worth uprating as a start If putting it on a track also look at S3 upper and lower struts too If the box is that notchy you could try changing its oil

eurospec/shrick you don't need them for 400hp

OP has a 1.8T ? .. uprated rods plus: K04 conversion K300 conversion If you do an in-site search on those two above you'll find more

Yes My VRS had the exact same unit as my 4x4