hawkeracing

I caught the end of the show but missed the car. Mel is still lush though!!! I wonder why the front grille badges have been badly stuck onto the bodywork? Surely not aimed at helping cooling.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291685064697

I will post this thread on FB for you and someone may come over. FB is very simple.....I hate it though....no pictures of my kids, wife, dinner or holidays on there for me! I just do old Skodas over there.

You're in the wrong place.....try here......you will be able to get a new front panel too https://www.facebook.com/groups/skodaownersclub/

BKR7EIX on my race car. On my other car I have Bosch......cheap as chips and decent. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-Bosch-Spark-Plugs-fit-Triumph-Herald-Spitfire-Skoda-Estelle-Rapid-L87YC-/291646170256?hash=item43e7776490:g:Bn0AAOSwQoFWOMTI The 6 and 7 has nothing to do with the size of the hexagonal nut, it's an invisible heat grading.

If your car is fitted with the longer plugs the electrodes will be touching the pistons at high revs because they will protrude too far.....that would cause issues! I did this once and the engine did run but closed the electrodes up and ran like a dog! Worth swapping for the correct ones......doesn't matter much if you use 6 or 7 on the heat rating.

I actually have a set of alloy skinned doors that I bought earlier this year.

Not sure how you think you'd obliterate a fibreglass bonnet or boot lid?!?! Are you planning on having a massive accident!? The bonnets are 3d and very strong. I will see if I can dig out the window kit emails.....just wracking my brains for the name of the firm I talked to. The problem with the Estelle is it's a heavy car for the engine power.....currently mine still weighs over 800kgs and that's with things like a plastic bonnet. I have to retain the glass for my class in speed events.....but you have one hell of a cage there that's going to weigh a bit too. If you're adding things like a birdbath (which for stage rallying would be useful I think) then you're going to have a fairly hefty beast there when you line it up next to a Peugeot 205 or a Mini

I own moulds for and can get you a fibreglass bonnet made but you would need to collect from Cumbria - it will save you between 10 and 15kgs depending on how brave you are with the thickness.....I am also about to have moulds made for a mk1 bootlid....which is basically a plain flat one that you can then do what you want with....hoping to save another 5kgs+. If you post up on Facebook someone will probably have a birdbath you can buy.....they are hefty things, but if you are stage rallying then they may be useful.....I don't really need the extra cooling and would rather go faster! Doors would be very difficult to have made in fibreglass.....the moulds would have to be insanely intricate and the doors would probably still need re-enforcing. I can point you in the direction of a company that do plastic window kits.

I've already shared a picture of the engine.......might as well got for the whole car now! Rob......read more carefully.....2/10 for attention . It's only a replica. Skodapaddy (that can't be your real name!) - the general opinion is it's an early Favorit engine.....assuming there aren't any letters missing after the numbers that can't be seen.

T pistons with rings come as a set. They take 136 gudgeon pins and the 75.5mm fit standard liners. Make sure you specify that its a 136 from a Favorit/Felicia - he sells Fabia pistons which sit at a different height in the engine. You need to check the journal sizes on your cam, there is more than 1 cam size. Your standard valve springs will be fine up to 7000rpm so unless you're going mad with the cam you should be fine. Cam wise.....I don't know, it depends what you're after. Kent will cut your cam to 244 (sk6) profile which is a really good compromise between out and out top end and usable torque. Please mention me when you contact Zdenek at Engitec and tell him I pointed you in his direction (my real name is Peter Garforth but keep that a secret....I wouldn't want to advertise it on the internet or anything )

That's good news. You still really ought to bin the pistons if you're building a competition engine.....they break up between the piston rings with hard use. The engine is a high compression 136 too judging by the engine number.

The engine with the red head is undoubtedly Australian :p The engine number is on the block not the head....next to the water pump

Here is the latest FHR ****e from the MSA.....I think angle wise Graham has misinterpreted things......horizontal from the mounting to shoulder is good. Mandatory use of FHR With effect from 1 January 2016 the use of FHRs becomes mandatory in Racing, Sprints, Hillclimbs and Stage Rallies – but there are exceptions. In Stage Rallying, Historic Category 1 cars (pre-1968) are exempt. In Sprints and Hillclimbs ‘Roadgoing’ category vehicles are exempt. Additionally in Sprints and Hillclimbs, as well as in Racing ‘Period defined’ vehicles are exempt, this is cars of Periods A –H, i.e. those constructed prior to 1st January 1977. A specific document has been circulated in the main MSA newsletter to all licence holders concerning helmet and FHR compatibility which is different for MSA National events compared to International permit events. If you are involved in a championship that involves a round being held outside of the UK, advise competitors to be careful for most ASNs follow the FIA regulations. Therefore irrespective of a race at – for example - Spa-Francorchamps running on an MSA National permit, FIA requirements will likely apply. In terms of harness/seat/FHR set up, refer to the advice on the FIA website. Although it is recommended that the shoulder attachments are closer together so that the straps go outward from their attachments to go over and round the FHR, this is not mandatory. It is recommended that the shoulder straps be horizontal between the attachment and the user’s shoulders, or that the attachment is at a lower point to make an angle of 0-20o to the horizontal. Note this is a recommendation and if shoulder straps make an angle with the horizontal of 0- 45o this is acceptable. It is not acceptable for the shoulder strap attachments to be at a higher point (creating an angle above the horizontal). Note that (K)1.2.2 is updated so as to allow the fitment of not only door bars, but also harness bars to homologated ROPS, but this is only for MSA National events. The addition of door bars and/or harness bars to homologated ROPS is not permitted under FIA regulations. Frontal Head Restraints It is inevitable that this topic is going to repeatedly come up over the next few months. There have been numerous queries concerning tethers. These carry FIA homologation labels and need to be checked for although in normal use they are not loaded they can become worn in use, particular those where the tether are one strap that can move through the mounting points to allow greater rotation of the users head. An FHR in compliance with 8858-2002 can be used with either 8858-202 tethers or with 8858-2010 tethers. For a 8858-2010 FHR only 8858-2010 tethers may be used. In either case 8858-2002 or 8858-2010 helmet anchorages can be used subject to being compatible with the tethers being used. A 8858-2002 helmet can only be fitted with 8858-2002 anchorages and a 8858-2010 helmet can only be fitted with 8858-2010 anchorages. FHR specific harnesses There are some harnesses homologated by the FIA which are labelled as “valid with HANS only” or similar. As previously advised, such harnesses can be used with any FIA-homologated Frontal Head Restraint be it a HANS or one of the alternatives. If you see such harnesses in the car then you should be expecting to see an FHR device for the relevant car occupant. Remember that any FIA-homologated harness can be used in conjunction with an FIA-homologated FHR.

Just noticed it has a fuel pump drive too......if you have the engine number it's possible to age the engine, but I reckon it's a Favorit one.....and far from new