thebrasso

Hi there, I have done some trawling of the forum and it appears to be a common problem! I have a Mk1 Octavia VRS (2004) hatch, a few weeks ago the drivers door lock started firing off the remote intermittently needing a second press then stopped altogether. I am down to using the key. The interior light, puddle (lower door) and door sensor indicating doors open and closed work fine. The mirror adjustment and heated mirror for the right side doesn't work. Am I right in thinking if the lights and door sensor work I can rule out the door lock microswitch? I have had the door card off, cleaned up the connector to the main control unit with contact cleaner and could not see anything obvious. I have visually checked the wires as best I can through the door to the A pillar. However I suspect the multiplug into the control unit may be at fault as it will not connect back on properly...it is as though one of the pins isn't going into the multiplug. Is it likely to be this set of wires, which could be replaced as a complete loom, or more likely the control unit? Or does anybody know if there is a motor to consider? Before I took the door card off I could not hear anything trying to activate in the drivers lock. My next step is a multimeter on it...it is infuriating!! Any advice would be appreciated.

I bought my 2004 1.8 vrs in July 2009 from Rainworth Skoda near Mansfield on 32500 miles. It had FSSH. I got the standard DV replaced with a forge one quite early on after trying a trial APR remap which was held back by the standard one. I have had it serviced mainly by Awesome GTI then in the past two years by Volksmaster on Oldham Road in Greater Manchester. I drove the first 50k miles doing maybe 20-25k miles per year then my mileage has declined. I have had the oil and filter changed every 5k miles thanks to the National Tyres offer. It had a brief illumination of the ASR sensor which disappeared after the first winter owning it, then routine maintenance of wear and tear items (brakes all round, front suspension arms, gearbox oil, coolant, air con regas, cambelt and waterpump).I got the oil pickup changed after a sump plug thread gave out during a service and needed re-tapping. It needs some TLC, a good valet as a minimum. It had a leak of water due to blocked drivers side drain holes and leaves in general under the front scuttle panels. However the engine goes like the absolute clappers now at 107k miles. I was looking at changing it for something better on fuel but at my price range I think I am better getting coilovers, bushes, and an exhaust done and even a remap rather than a few grand on a car that is maybe 2 years newer.

Thanks for the replies. My car is due an MOT in Aug 2014 and I will be honest I think the suspension may cause issues. I think from reading, my cheapest option might be pro sport coilovers, mercedes vito drop links, new front top mounts, probably ball joints, bolts, and rear bump stops and rear beam bushes parts wise for about £450.00, then get some help fitting them. Maybe a few other bushes as well and a rear anti roll bar. The over side of it is at the moment it handles like poo, and can't put the power down like it should.

Hi there, I have a 2004 Mk1 vrs, standard other than a forge DV. I bought her from a Skoda dealer in 2009 at 32k miles, she had one owner prior to me and had Skoda FSH. Since I've owned her, I did maybe 50k miles up to 2011 which were on the motorway until I had much shorter commutes to work. She is now on 104700 miles, and still has FSH from Skoda and Independent garages. I have dropped the oil every 5k miles since owning her and she has had the gearbox oil, cambelt, waterpump and oil pickup changed. I am conscious she needs money spending on her: the suspension is seriously soggy only having front arms changed last year that I know of. Cosmetically there are maybe 3 minor scuffs and 3 of the alloys could do with a refurb. She has a sticky rear wiper motor, a rusting wiper arm and needs a good valet. I am replacing breather pipes at the moment. I may be emigrating in early 2015, these cars are not worth a lot now. Is it worth shelling out on pro-sport coilovers, droplinks, top mounts, rear bump stops, rear beam bushes and a tidy up etc to sell it? I guess what I am getting at is she is on high miles and would somebody buy her?

There seems to be lots of us having to deal with this in the last month! I am not the most mechanically minded but as stated you need to clear out the area under the drivers side scuttle panel and the wheel arch liner so water can drain out. In my case I had recently had the pollen filter changed so the passenger side scuttle panel was clear. Other posts have mentioned removing wiper arms I found it wasn't needed really, it was literally open the bonnet, remove the rubber strip parallel to the windscreen, unclip the scuttle panel (I seem to remember it clips together to the passenger side scuttle panel near the centre of the windscreen) and from there you should be able to lift up the drivers scuttle panel enough to get a very long flat blade screw driver in if needed and reach in and get rid of all the compost/leaves in there. The wheel arch liners are easy to remove even for me using a scissor jack and a spare wheel underneath as a backup. The most time consuming part of this jacking the car up each side and in my case removing wheels for easy access. I cleared everything out and have now had no water ingress. I found the best way to clear out existing water is long drives with the climate on high, rear windows slightly open so you don't cook and keep whacking kitchen roll down in the footwells.

Sorry to hijack this thread, I've had the same problem. It seemed to occur on Sun my car got hit on the drivers side by a wave of standing water on the motorway that literally went right over the car, and I had a massive puddle in the rear drivers footwell and damp in the front drivers footwell. I've cleaned out the front wheel arches, pollen filter was changed a month ago. I currently have a dehumidifier running inside the car having absorbed as much as I could with paper towels. I guess my question is can the drivers side scuttle panel be popped off without removing the wiper assembly and re-attached or does it need a new part? By the sounds of things it could be a build up of crud on that side of the bulkhead. I have a sealant gun does anybody have pictures of where the bonnet release cable comes through? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks for all the replies. I am not after lowering the car at all, I just want an improvement in handling and to lose the wallowiness of my 2004 suspension. Do coilover kits come with spacers? I was looking at non coilover setups and any sort of spring and shock setup seems very expensive, can anybody recommend anything that isn't extortionate? Otherwise it will be pro-sports.

Hi there, I've tried doing a search and there are not a massive amount of threads on pro sport coilovers. My 2004 VRS is getting very tired. I still love the engine however the suspension is very tired with numerous knocks and squeaks. I plan to spend some money on improving it. I don't track the car or push it massively. There seem to be mixed opinions on the pro sport coilovers, could people using them say if they have been an improvement? I am aware they need the Vito droplinks and spacers. I intend to get new farb bushes, control arms, top mounts, rear beam bushes, subframe bushes and rear bump stops. I think that would be the vast majority of the suspension refreshed? Any advice appreciated.

I have an 04 VRS with 94k miles which I have had for 4 years. I got it on 32k miles. Always 5 w 30 Castrol Edge used and I've topped up 500ml in that time to keep it at the correct level. So just over 15k a year. I would say that is a lot of oil to be using,

Thanks for all the replies. Do people find they are replacing the nuts and bolts also due to poor condition (given mine will be original from 2004)? I am looking at nearly £700 in parts alone!!

Hi there, I realise there are lots of threads on here on different setups etc. Just to clarify my 04 VRS is past its best suspension wise and I intend to keep the car another few years. I could take the budget approach and just replace front control arms, and arb bushes, which would probably get rid of a lot of squeaking. But if I wanted to do it properly, am I right in thinking it would include: Coilovers all round Front ARB bushes as a minimum and a 19mm+ rear ARB Front control arms Front Drop links Front Ball Joints Front Top mounts Rear beam bushes Rear bump stops Is there anything else significant missing there?

Cheers mate, will leave it for a bit now it is starting to warm up and change it in a few months...

Hi there, I have replied to this thread for a bit of advice. 2 days ago on a cold morning I had the coolant light on again! The level is fine. I have tried scraping the prongs in the expansion bottle with a flat blade and it hasn't come back yet. Is it likely to be a level sensor as well, if so is it easiest replacing the expansion bottle which comes with a sensor? I am due a cambelt/waterpump in the next 2 weeks so I imagine coolant will get dropped then...

Well...I just changed this sensor! The most difficult thing was getting the wiring clip out of the old sensor (I put the new sensor in situ by this point). I then fumbled putting the top engine cover screws in and dropped one. It seemed to go straight down but is nowhere to be found, so thats only held on by 3 screws. I will have to scour ebay for some replacements but that is no biggie. It could be psychological but putting the green sensor on, although not cold outside the engine seems smoother at idle when started and seems to drive smoother as well. The average MPG seems to go up very quickly beyond 20mpg to nearer 30 after a couple of miles where it seemed very low before. I was getting the red coolant temperature warning beeps/light on virtually a daily basis. Time will tell.

Thanks for all the replies!