yashicamat

This is only an (slightly)educated guess at the moment, but my car is occasionally going into limp mode when under sustained boost (e.g., 3rd or 4th gear from middle rpms upwards). The turbo isn't stock and can handle way more boost than is being asked of it (it's gt1749vb). As said turbo is only 15k miles old, I can only assume the issue must be a request not met rather than anything like sticky vanes. Question is, knowing the turbo is within the operational limits, would the occasional limp mode be indicative of damage being caused somewhere? Or can anyone else think of a probable alternative issue? FYI, if the car is revved from say 3.5krpm upwards, it'll happily fly through the gears without any problems whatsoever and it only going into limp mode very occasionally when accelerating from lower rpms (maybe 1 in 10 to 15 times?). I will scan for codes at some point too and these will obviously give a definitive answer to the limp mode, but thought I'd ask in the mean time. Cheers

Mine has alcantara inserts with normal leather bolsters and the top/ends of the back and base.

Have a look through at my thread in this forum - I had similar symptoms with my NSF door and it was the spade connectors on the motor that caused the problem. Lots of fiddling dismantling the first time around, but much easier after. The other possibly cause (other than water ingress to the electrics in the driver door) is dry solder joints, again inside the locking mechanism. These too can be inspected at the same time if you dismantle the door. There is a way to get to the inside of the door when it's locked closed, but it's a long and messy job involving removing a fair bit of interior trim I think! I'd get a friend to repeatedly hit 'unlock' and slap the door near the locking mechanism to try and get it to make a brief contact before setting about dismantling. There is a thread somewhere on here on how to get the door dismantled when closed. In a rush so haven't got time to find the links now, I'll do so tomorrow if you've not found them yourself by then. Good luck.

Roads cool by radiating heat, so they can be much cooler than the air temperature (for the pedants, apart from the air immediately next to the road surface). This is why the temperature 'bong' goes off at +4.0 degrees usually, to make an allowance for this (although that is an approximation). Car windscreens etc. cool down even more rapidly than roads as they radiate in much the same way, but don't have much heat capacity so cool quickly, hence the car windscreen is often frozen even when the air temp is reading +1.0 degrees. Bit of winter info!

What amazes me is this particular issue doesn't seem to be documented! At least with the Octy doors we don't have to remove the window carriers to do the job!

Make sure the internal mechanism has the pin in the groove correctly - this happened to me the first time around and wouldn't lock properly. One you've put the lock back together, just plug it into the socket in the door and test it by using your finger to close the door latch, then open it with the outer door pull cable, lock it and try again. If all is well, reinstall in the door.

OK folks, well I thought I may as well take everything apart again as I've not got anything to lose, in doing so I managed to eventually find the problem. Not a circuit board issue, in fact, it was an issue I'm not aware has been one before . . . it was the spade connectors on the motor! So I bent them outwards then used a cable tie to tension them, resulting in a better connection. So far, so good! FYI, for anyone following the VW vortex guide on changing this . . . the interior of an Octy door isn't the same as a Golf mkiv; I didn't have to remove the window carriers to get the lock out, just take off two bolts (secured the window with tape though) then I managed to get it out. We do have to contend with a big sheet of glued on foam though (I used an old knife with insulation tape around it to remove the foam, worked well then glue-gunned it back on after) . . . sound insulation I presume? Some photos below anyway should anyone else come across this;

OK guys, well I've pulled it apart and can't find any obvious fault (all the circuitry is intact, tested the microswitches I could get to without opening the mechanical half up, the electric side was fun enough with gears and motors flying everywhere!). I've come to the conclusion that a new unit is needed (especially as since reassembling this one the inner door pull doesn't seem to be working properly . . . ), plus it sounds a little bit sick anyway so I wonder if it is more than just a connection problem. I am certain, however, that the unit is at fault here, not anything else (e.g. wiring to it through the door) so replacing the unit should cure my problems. I have two issues now really; firstly is identifying the part number! I've attached some photos, the only thing that looks like a part number is 'PA66 GF30' but that doesn't look like a normal VAG p/n . . . can't find anything else on the unit though! Does anyone else know? edit; some googling suggests it might be 3B2 837 015 L ? Second problem is now I have a car which I cannot lock the nsf door and where I have to park for work is not the nicest of places . . . is there any way to manually make the door lock? I can't seem to get it to at the moment. Any help is appreciated, cheers!

Alternative is what I call 'mini-dot' from the L&K - this won't show the door open stuff, but it has a half-screen like a lot of the higher end mkiv golfs had. You'd need to find a 1.8T model donor to have a suitable rev counter though, but the lights would be green if you wanted to keep the colour.

Anyone else spot something in the first trailer pic?

Only thing I'd be very wary of is security . . . I'd want to have a Cosworth garaged when it's at home.

Bigger turbo, injectors and map to see about 160-170bhp, bigger fuel pump to get past this. The clutch will struggle on much more than a remap of the standard engine, though. 'Bigbossman' knows a fair bit about 110tdi tuning.

My passenger side front door lock has started playing up recently, seemingly deciding at random if to work or not. All other electrics on that door work perfectly. It might be my imagination, but when it does work, it makes a very slightly odd sound . . . I wonder if this is the solenoid? Has anyone else had a problem like this? I'd ordinarily happily start fishing around with electrics, but I know from past experience to be careful with car doors because of the faff associated with the window carriers etc. Cheers.

Or anything from the Marble brewery really . . . their beers are top notch.

Mmm, well there's a fair difference between 70k and 130k. To give you some idea, I bought mine at 110k and in the subsequent 25k miles, it's needed cambelt, waterpump, turbo, clutch and wishbone bushes. Obviously not all cars are the same and some will last better than others, but it's around the 100-120k mark that bits and pieces start to need attention.