flyerphil

13200 km is very (suspiciously) low for a 2006 car. Its six years old - so I would check very carefully that the km is genuine. 1) The AC compressor needs checking - though if the Km is genuine, it should be OK. They go at about 75000 miles. The bearings break up and they make a noise and loose gas. They are expensive to buy and replace. 2) Its petrol so I'm not sure if it has a duel mass flywheel. These are a weak point too. Check for noise and vibration. 3) Check for a hot start. If it takes a takes a lot of spinning, then it needs a new battery. 4) Check that the rear compartment lights work. If they don't, its not just the bulbs, It could be the microswitch in the rear lock. 5) Check the rear parking sensors. When you put it in reverse, if there is a continuous bleep for six seconds - then there is a fault, usually a sensor. 6) Check that the rear wash wipe works. If no fluid is dispensed, then the pipe is off somewhere. Can be tricky to find. Its a common problem. 7) Check the rear tyres for uneven wear. Octavias have problems with the rear suspension geometry. 8) Check the front window for de-lamination 9) Check the anti - skid system. Should be no lights on the dash. 10) Check the clutch for free play. Should be no more than 40 mm 11) Check that everything works. The elegance has quite a lot of equipment.

Get one of the Latvian ones - they are cheap and work fine. A drop of touch up paint is all you need. I left mine black.

Success !!! You know I was convinced the DMF was broke. I just folded some paper up several times and pushed it between the plastic air intake and the metal surround. No more buzz at 1100 rpm !! Phew thanks, one less thing to worry about.

Hmm I have the same. Vibration at 1100 rpm. Was thinking DMF. There are no rattles just vibration. I will check tomorrow.

Yes its perfectly normal for diesel engines to have black oil. Its a question I also asked when I bought my first diesel (this is my third). The main thing is to change it regularly - even more often than strictly necessary, 8 - 10,000 miles and certainly at least once per year.

Yes its common - well I can vouch for the Octavia. I think the problem stems from the fact that the compressor does not have a mechanical clutch to disengage it it when not in use. Its therefore always driven and the system controlled by a pulse width modulated signal. So since its always driven, the shaft and bearings wear out at 80,000 miles instead of 200,000 miles on a conventional system with clutch. Mine has gone. I took it off and put a short accessory belt on. May fix it in the summer. However the compressor is expensive. I bought what I thought was a bargin from Euro car parts. Had it put on and regassed but didn't work. Then had a lot of grief and hassle trying to get my money back. If you took it to a Skoda dealer they would want maybe £500 to fit one. I have found another one for £200 and it will cost £90 to be fitted and re-gassed. - but its a gamble. This has been my experience so far. The other main design fault with the Octavia is the duel mass flywheel - they only last about 80,000 miles ish. People are replacing them a conventional flywheel and clutch.

I have the same and it allows just basic engine functions to be looked at. Of limited use.

Ahhhh (that's my wallet screaming). What's the ESP? Not another design weakness??

That looks encouraging. I presume it will fit the Skoda. Skippy: the mechanic who took the old compressor off fitted the belt for me. I got a new compressor from Europarts in the summer - but when I had it fitted - it DID NOT WORK. It caused me a lot of grief, expense before they gave me a refund.

Ok thanks for that. I quite like my Octavia but its done 80,000 miles and expect the DMF will go sometime. So wondering whether to sell or stick wth it. If the latter then will be facing £450. It still needs a new AC compressor, running around on a short belt. The cheapest I could find one for is £210 plus £90 to fit and gas. So I will have to pay out about £750 if I keep it. ??? May be better to cut my losses.

Yes I would add that if you get down and place your ear against the sensor you can hear a noise; nothing from a failed unit. You can get new ones for about £25 each off ebay.

Could Mike or someone, indicate the cost involved in replacing the DMF with an SMF. 1) Cost of part(s) 2) Typical labor costs Thanks

I had to replace one of mine! Wish I'd known about the hair-dryer trick. Its a great system when it works, never had one before but would not be without it now. My replacement I got off eBay was quite cheap. I think it came from somewhere like Lithania

Ok thanks for all your replies. What you say makes sense - thanks

Hi One of the things that makes me think the fuel is heated - is because in the summer I played around with a very limited OBD2 software and cheapo lead off ebay. It allowed some very basic parameters to be monitored - one of which was fuel temperature and it was well above ambient. So this makes me think it is heated. Its of concern of course in winter with low temperatures. Diesel fuel is known to get thicker and even gel, and of course heating the fuel lines would stop this. In countries with very low temperatures (Canada etc) they sell No 1 diesel during winter months, which is thinner and gels at a much lower temperature (similar to paraffin). Our diesel is No 2 diesel.