wyx087

Nice view, nice car and great running costs. What mi/kWh are you getting? The scaling is clearly designed for MPG and totally unreadable. The driver display would drive me nuts though, no battery percentage display and thick side bezel.

That's great to hear. Hopefully vast majority of ZE50's will have CCS installed. As second hand car buyer, this is excellent news. Rapid charging is like a bottle of water, vast majority of the time when you going about your business normally, it's just nice to have as backup. But when you go beyond your normal daily routine, it's invaluable (both car capability and reliable network of multi-charger hubs)

I can't believe the CCS is an optional extra on Zoe, without rapid charging, EV's are simply an expensive toy. I've bought a second hand Leaf for my wife, was deciding between Leaf 24 or ZE20. Although it's a local runabout, rapid charging is still very very important. Case in point #1: We move to my parents 150 miles away when I can WFH for childcare reasons. Wife wanted her car, so we drove it over in 2 cars. Would have been a very long journey with a 22kW charging Zoe. Driving Leaf with only 20 kWh battery, the journey was only longer by 1 hour, stopped twice. Case in point #2: Car was 55% last weekend, I drove it hard (I like the instant torque feel) and had 26% when we got back. Afternoon we spontaneously decided to drive 25 miles round trip, a risky trip without charging. But 5min at a rapid charger and the trip was easily done. With almost 3 years of EV ownership, I have got the same conclusion as you: public charging infrastructure is very bad. Not only stupid membership requirements. Single rapids dotted about the place does not inspire enough confidence to rely a journey on it. For my 60 miles car, the ONLY journey I'd confidently do outside of its range from my home in North London is to Milton Keynes thanks to the 8-bay rapid charing hub. I feel there's only one brand of EV that can replace an ICE car for long distance driving. All others are just local runabout, excellent locally but ultimately you are tethered to your home charger.

Thank you. I'll give them a call later. I normally live in North London and had used Citygate main dealer with waterpump and DSG oil, back then they were reasonably priced at under £500 and £180 respectively and good service. 2 years later with long service schedule, I'm met with well over 10% price inflation at main dealers! So I'm definitely going Indy with my Skoda and DIY with my wife's Nissan Leaf EV (DIY pollen filter, any garage can do brake fluid, nothing else need doing) Tauton and Magor are not quite North Somerset & Bristol area......... Thanks anyway, might be useful for other people browsing.

Yatton, between Western Super Mare and Bristol. So if you draw an oval around Western & Bristol, I can go anywhere inside that oval. Agree with you on greed! I guess I'm asking for Indy garage recommendations, to do major service (inc fuel filter) for £250 if possible.

Anyone in North Somerset / Bristol area? Any garage they'd recommend for a major servicing? My car is due: - major servicing - diesel fuel filter changing - pollen and air filter changing I can do this myself, looks easy enough and not too messy. The local main dealer shows £302 (184 + 59 + 59). Feels a bit extortionate..... I'd have expected less than £250 when I'm doing the 2 air filters, or under £300 for a regular major servicing which includes the 3 filters. I guess I'm not in tune with main dealer's idea of pricing. https://www.heritageskoda.co.uk/offers/fixed-price-servicing/ What exactly is included in extended scope servicing anyway? \rant I was forced to do diesel cam belt + waterpump in 2017 for £489, I noticed in 2018 it's £499. In 2 years time, it's jumped up by 10% to £549. Similarly, Nissan had minor seriving as £99 for Leaf in 2016, jumped up by 50% to £149 in 2018 and now £159. 60% increase in 4 years time. For doing a checklist and filling windscreen fluid! Are main dealers asking to be wiped off the earth by Tesla's online selling and manufacturer owned service centre customer experience? /rant

From what I've seen, those i3 REx will be first to retire due to uneconomical to repair the gaskets on those ICE. https://www.speakev.com/threads/for-the-love-of-god-do-not-run-an-i3-without-a-warranty.101153/#post-1819745 EV hardware update? As long as the range still suits individual needs, it doesn't really need any hardware updates. This is the mentality I have with my first-gen Leaf. Its range is more than enough for wife. 5-10 years down the line, as long as wife's driving needs doesn't change, the outdated powertrain will still be an excellent car....... as long as rest of the car holds up.

So in summary: the 10 years old car is ready to be scrapped is because the body is rusted. The electric powertrain, not needing any servicing throughout its life, works great and can continue to work after the car get some attention from body shop. In another 5 years time. 15 years is considered average lifetime of a car. I do wonder what will be EV percentage of the triplet. It would be interesting to compare it to original sales figure. I would think EV percentage would increase because it is so cheap to continue to run an EV. Whereas a timing belt replacement may be more expensive than total value of the car.

Is it a completely new platform? The Leaf platform is waaaaay overdue for update.

Cars are deeply personal. One person loves their new car is great for them. But what I find interesting is that in most EV related threads, across all different forums, people like to use a lot of first person perspective to justify their own personal choice, using "I" "my". It's almost as though people felt the need to belittle other people's deeply personal choice just because they have chosen a different type of powertrain. You don't see much of this with a new petrol or diesel car.

As EV price comes closer and closer to petrol car prices, with more instant power and driving refinement, yet cheaper running cost, it's sad some people are still cynical about switching to the suprior drivetrain. The only downside for EV's is once in a blue moon, you may need to plan your long distance journey. It would cover vast majority of people's daily uses perfectly.

Any video featuring any presenter than Robert is very good and informative. It's just a shame Robert often goes on rants that are hardly factual, it destroys their credibility.

Have you modified boot or glovebox light? I changed boot lights to super bright LED off aliexpress and got same result. I ignored it initially. But on one outing, the battery was completely drained and after rescue boost started the car, I got boot open warning constantly. Changing the boot light back solved all issues.

The change in power with mode setting. Can you set to 80 PS eco mode and still access 136 PS via kickdown? In Leaf, set eco mode reserves the last 2 power to kickdown. I drive in this mode because I like the throttle control for lower power, but use kickdown quite a lot.

Only 300bhp for the R version? With electric motors, you won't need massive engine to achieve those power, just a very good battery management system and software....... oh wait.

That grin at 7:30. Welcome to the future

The £7000 city car looks like a Honda E front with Smart backside. Pretty good IMO. For 2 car household, that car is perfect as local runabout with 33 kWh battery. I bought my 24 kWh battery for £8800 for the exact same purpose.

1:55 "I believe it's just Renault"

The key is similar spec. But unfortunately most people will look at the Golf that starts at £20k While ID3 costs close to £40k.

Got to remember it's different for everyone, some prefer to sit in a car and make the whole 6+ hours journey without ever stopping (iron bladder!), some prefer taking leasurely breaks. Some think the edge case to do 6+ hr driving without stopping is more important than everyday use case of the vehicle....... For me, I think a 20min break every 2 hours is about right. Other than that, I personally put running cost, driving pleasure and everyday ease-of-use above unnecessarily range that I'll never use. End of the day, one has to remember the reason for 600 miles fossil fuel tank it's more about being limited to refuel at petrol stations, inability to refuel at home. Otherwise why stop at 600 miles? Why fit 45 litre to Octavia when there's space for 60 litre tank to give 1000 miles? Then, why stop there? Why not fit 100 litre tank for even longer drives? Surely going 2 months without refuelling is better than 2 weeks? Actually, why not take refuelling out of whole equation? To achieve that, we can either have unlimited power source within cars, or get the car to do some refuelling while parked up.........

The last date to buy a new petrol, diesel or hybrid car in the UK will be brought forward from 2040 to 2035, under government plans. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-51366123 I'm sure ICE car makers, who are primarily engine manufactures, that happen to also put together cars from parts suppliers, will be screaming and kicking against this until their bitter end. Cue the usual: - My diesel does 600 miles, so my future car must also do 600 miles despite only driving 60 miles a day (think about your actual needs) - Where are people going to charge (where people will park for long time) - The infrastructure isn't there yet (true at the moment) - Coal powered car (the grid is getting cleaner by the day) - The grid can't cope (there is enough energy for all to switch to EV, just need to ensure we are smart about charging) - Rare earth material mining ethics (the war for oil in middle east is worse, they are working on batteries not needing cobalt) - Battery production is bad (Lifetime carbon emission of EV is lower than ICE, they say EV lifetime emission is half of ICE cars) - Battery can't be recycled (new industry popping up to recycle/repurpose EV battery) - Battery will die in 3 years time (totally false, car manufacturers give 8 years battery warranty, my first-gen EV still retains 85% of its original capacity at over 5yo)

Quick question, as I'm planning to do the front brake pads on my Skoda this bank holiday weekend. Is there any VW special tools needed? Or a standard socket is all that's needed to release the calliper? What is the specified wheel nut torque and calliper nut torque? Many thanks in advance