adg1

I had similar 2016 mk3 tdi, it must have either been an air lock or matrix partially blocked, with water only flowing through one half, because after having a new main radiator fitted (after bottom hose connection broke) 4 years ago, its been fine ever since. Never took silica bag out either, its still in there somewhere or has disolved, as i cannot see it.

My 1.6 tdi 2026 was 288mm but several variants and 253mm rear, with 2 variants on the depth for the rear disks. other thing to remember is the front pads can be directional, sometime marked with an arrow, other times not.... so chamfer on pad mounted on leading edge of caliper, otherwise very noisy.

Both cheaper on Autodoc, £12 and £104 respectively plus delivery, Bosch and Beru. GSF is £14 they don't list no2.

At least the 'plugs are easy to do on these, i used a compressor to clean around the glow plug, get the engine hot first and they all unscrewed really easily. I had no2 fail, i replaced all but the sensor one... Autodoc by far the cheapest for the sensor plug.... GSF did the Bosch ones for less than 30% the price Skoda wanted, only difference was the GSF ones didn't have VW printed on them!

I had a water leak at 108k miles, took to an indie and had a phone call to say the belt was falling apart and pump leaking, i'd had the car from new, i hadn't hammered it and the mileage was well within service schedule. Its around £5/600 for pump, belt and tensioner.

Octavia mk3 - Fitted Delphi Disk and pads all round, 2 years ago, several trip to the Pyrenees and daily driving in Devon/Cornwall, defo an upgrade on the OEM ones (more powerful) and have minimum wear after 20k miles, like you, i don't rag it around. Got mine from Autodoc, at the time, about 50% less than anywhere in UK.

Maybe don't over think it and just use G12 Evo? G13 is getting harder to get hold off and Evo is the newer product.... You can trust me on this bro.

As i understand it G13 is designed to work in conjunction with the silica bag in the older coolant tanks (for corrosion protection) G12 Evo will afford the same protection without the need for the silica bag So using G13 without silica bag = less corrosion protection. VW thinking might be its better to top up with a compatible coolant than use water alone or nothing.

There should be no smokey diesel smell. Could be a sensor issue or injector over fuelling but all guess work. Take it to a specialist, extra diesel "could" be getting into the oil, so worth changing that after you have it fixed.

If you mix g13 and g12 evo, whilst not harmful at all, the coolant will turn a dirty brown.... don't ask how i know this.... and i only added 200ml. Thought i had g13, so added that but i now know that after previous work, it have been swapped for g12 evo.

Mine is 2016 model & has what i would call the rocket ship stat, as per video, gave vin/reg to Skoda dealer, he carried them in stock, its also what GSF and ECP specc'd as well, it was only autodoc that said there was a 2nd stat, more conventional looking... but no idea where that is.... its not only any parts diagram i ve seen. I got the o-ring really easily, off a VW garage, in stock.... its winging its way to me, TPS deal with the trade, so i wouldn't expect to be able to bypass retail mark up. Do you have a photo of your housing? this is what Skoda say i have got, car is a 1.6 tdi Greenline, so has more emissions stuff... I have to say though that unless the removal of the pressure pipe gives better access, mine will be going to a garage!

Battery needs to be coded into the cars electrics or the car will charge it as if it was an old battery, so the new battery never reaches its potential, so to speak. Sorry cross post Warrior1963

I ve got the same issue..... awaiting a new o ring for the pressure boost pipe where it meets the throttle body, does a scan show a sensor fault? i ve been advised not to replace that if no codes..... Well done on 300k, mines at 142k and i'm hoping to get to 200k.... This guy appears to have done it ok but other vids on the Golf tdi say remove throttle body for access, the Thermostat can only go in one way, has 3 tabs that need to line up, i plan to make the existing one once i get the housing apart... Autodoc say there is another thermostat in the cooling system but local Skoda dealer say only this one.... looks like a rocket...

I think the Pump is in a different place on the diesels... mine has been replaced already.

Is it fairly easy to do? looks fiddly from the YT vids..... Yes the loss of coolant is a worry, as this is what happened when the water pump failed, just a gradual loss of coolant until it was having to be topped up daily but this was a very small amount to top up, maybe 250ml and i haven't checked it for a few months

No, the pump was replaced around 35k ago, though i can't be sure if it was a genuine part..... This morning took car for a 30 mile drive (to get Thermostat) temp stayed on 50' for 4 miles, then very slowly went to 70, then held at 80 for about 10mins, eventually stuck at 90 and then stayed there.. Normally would be on 90 within 5 miles, whatever the weather. Will change it out and see what occurs.

Ok thanks, i was surprised to see it so low, def just below min mark, which is making me think there could be another issue, water pump.

Why would a low coolant level when cold cause cool running?

Coolant was changed 3 years ago, i noticed a while back that the car seemed to be taking longer to warm up but put it down to weather, but yesterday, temp didn't get near 90'C and on a down hill section, went cooler, then Amber DPF light came on.... i believe the thermostat is on battery side of engine (its a Diesel, not a Petrol)... & looks like a mission to get at.... This morning i checked coolant tank and level is low.... when the pump was changed after it leaked, along with cam belt, the car still reached temp correctly...

I fitted a new AGM battery, same type and capacity, with 6 months the stop start failed to work and bat capacity was at 70% even on after a long run.... i then coded it and re charged it. Has been fine since. Evidence perhaps not but considering the OP has had issues without a coding, it does seem to point to that batteries need coding upon replacement.

Happy NY all! Recently noticed that my 1.6tdi is taking longer to heat up, esp in this cold snap and when it does, temp will drop down from 90'C when say going down hill. No coolant leaks and water pump was done around 30k ago & car has done 142k miles. I'm think thermostat stuck open? Is this likely? and is it a diy job?

ok cheers all... i'll hang on. I use the car for european hols and didn't want it packing up then.

Hi, My 1.6tdi has done 143000 miles on the original clutch. Should i change it out as a precaution? Do these things have a shelf life, say like a cam belt or should i just wait until it starts slipping? It shows no signs of wear and the bite point is about half way up the travel. I don't want to be broken down somewhere.

Yes i get it, mine, a 2016 plate, is on 140k, still on same clutch, as i ve had car from new.... a new clutch and fix leaking cam cover and replace injector seals is close to £2k.... should something like a DPF or worse go and the car becomes uneconomically to repair... mostly due to labour costs which have become ridiculous.... but one does need to look at the replacement car costs and that any other vehicle will also have costs... my plan is to keep this one until it cannot be repaired, touchwood been v reliable, rad aside, the slight oil leak has been apparent for 4 or 5 years... nothing has gone wrong other than serviceable items.

Whats your car worth as scrap? & whats to say any replacement car wont have an expensive issue? A friend bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump and injectors on Fabia Diesel, that was 30k ago......he had run it out of fuel more than once!!! if the work is done by someone who knows what they doing, it should be fine, your garage sounds like they don't want to do it........ No real need to clean fuel tank unless its been filled with petrol or poor quality fuel. As these engines can do v hi mileages with out issue, perhaps yours have been run dry, filled with petrol or never had filter replaced/not primed properly.