Hi. I need some advice. I went out yesterday to take some pictures of my car, but the problem is I can't get it in focus, like properly in focus. It doesn't have that 'cleaness' to it.

I have to admit, i didn't try manual focus.

I have Sony's 50mm F1.8, kit lens and Tamron's 70-200mm F2.8.

I should avoid 200mm, as detail is not great-at least that what I read ; <-- that is exactly what did not do.

p.s. I do have CP filter, will be using it next time (tomorrow hopefully.)

it looks fine to me, if that first one was done at f1.8 then closing it down a couple of stops might pull all the car in sharp. It looks like its focused correctly just a tiny tiny bit soft. stopping down does help softness to a large degree

If you used the tamron, likely softness is the problem not focus

Edited 22 October, 201213 yr by Lofty79

Most lenses reach maximum sharpness at least two stops below maximum - a general rule is around f8.

When calculating DoF, refer to charts that will calculate the aperture based upon shooting distance & focal length and will show the required distance between front and back pints of focus. Ensure that it takes into account the sensor size you are using in your camera. Try this one.

As lofty79 said, I don;t think it is focus that is the problem, but the shallow DoF you are using that makes the pictures 'soft' and also limits the front to back focus. Great if you wan to isolate a specific detail, but not so good when you are trying to capture a long car.

HTH

Most lenses reach maximum sharpness at least two stops below maximum - a general rule is around f8.

When calculating DoF, refer to charts that will calculate the aperture based upon shooting distance & focal length and will show the required distance between front and back pints of focus. Ensure that it takes into account the sensor size you are using in your camera. Try this one.

As lofty79 said, I don;t think it is focus that is the problem, but the shallow DoF you are using that makes the pictures 'soft' and also limits the front to back focus. Great if you wan to isolate a specific detail, but not so good when you are trying to capture a long car.

HTH

Thanks guys. So the Total DoF will be the focused area, in my case, car?

total depth of field, entire area being pictured, length of car will be part of that, in this pic it seems as windscreen and wig mirrors are the area right in focus, leaving front and rear of car sliding out slightly

Thanks guys. So the Total DoF will be the focused area, in my case, car?

Basically, yes.

But also be aware that the distance in front of the point of focus is shorter than the distance behind the point of focus.

In other words, focussing on the driver's wing mirror in picture two will be about right to keep the front and rear in focus.

Basically, yes.

But also be aware that the distance in front of the point of focus is shorter than the distance behind the point of focus.

In other words, focussing on the driver's wing mirror in picture two will be about right to keep the front and rear in focus.

OK, thanks again guys. I'll put my new knowledge in action tomorrow.

Another thing to try is to keep a bigger distance between your subject and the background than there is between you and the subject!

Another point being the lens quality. I you want pro quality you need pro lenses. My most expensive lens give me noticeably more stunning pictures than say a cheaper or kit lens.

EXIF data shows the 1st pic (large car) was taken at f/5.6 1/8th sec 105mm focal length

2nd pic (small car) was taken at f/32, 5 sec, 70mm focal length

Both taken at ISO400 - I assume on your Tamron 70-200 f/2.8

Can't see any sign of camera shake but it is difficult to determine on such small pics. I assume you used a good solid tripod and used a remote or the self timer to prevent moving the camera.

On the first you are in the sweet area of you Tamron f/2.8 but have limited the depth of field - as others have said focus on the wing mirror and use f/11 or f/16.

On the 2nd you have possibly gone out of the sweet area at f/32 where you gain depth of field but lose out overall sharpness. In general the sweet area start 2 stops down from max up to 2 stops short of min. Likewise avoid the extremes of the zoom range.. Better still use a prime lens like your 50mm

Both taken at ISO 400 so noise shouldn't be a massive problem but it will be greater than at, say ISO100. That too will sharpen the image.

The 5 sec exposure on the 2nd will have introduced some noise too. Can't see on the small pics to be sure.

I assume that you have taken these shots at much higher resolution than the samples here - shoot at the highest resolution you can.

Using your EXIF exposure data the best sharpness for that image would be:

Solid tripod with remote control or time delay to fire the shutter (mirror lock may help too)

Use your 50mm prime lens

take off any UV filter from the lens - use it naked

Lens hood on

Manual Focus on the mirror

ISO100, 2sec at f/11

Using a CP filter is difficult with cars! Because you are shooting from a corner you will kill the reflections down the side but enhance the reflectionsfrom the windscreen - difficult balancing act so try several different rotations.

A few points from me..

Personally I find the photo wayyyyy to busy. It is really hard to focus on the subject because there is so much detail in the background. Another thing I feel is that the car isn't the main subject. almost feels like it happened to be there as you where snapping.

A few things I would suggest from years of taking car photos. Get low, cars look better the closer to the ground you're. Gives them more of an aggressive stance.

When picking a background, something like this is fine, but it needs to be less busy or more focus given to the car.

It's ok not to photograph the car as such providing it doesn't get lost in the background

HTH

A few points from me..

Personally I find the photo wayyyyy to busy. It is really hard to focus on the subject because there is so much detail in the background. Another thing I feel is that the car isn't the main subject. almost feels like it happened to be there as you where snapping.

A few things I would suggest from years of taking car photos. Get low, cars look better the closer to the ground you're. Gives them more of an aggressive stance.

When picking a background, something like this is fine, but it needs to be less busy or more focus given to the car.

http://www.flickr.co...157623508666445

It's ok not to photograph the car as such providing it doesn't get lost in the background

http://www.flickr.co...157626217184388

HTH

Thanks, will post some pictures some time soon.

What ISO/ASA rating have you used? Is you lens and filter clean?

Are you using a tripod with remote control? Soft focus is often a result of camera shake, not being out of focus. As previous focusing on the wing mirror is about the right place to focus on (As the depth of field extends 1/3 in front of the actual point of focus and 2/3 behind it, it's then a question of getting the apature correct and as previous most lenses perform best around f8. Distance from the subject as well as the focal length of the lens being used also effect the DOF- the closer you are to the subject the shallower the DOF for any given aperture, the longer the lens the shallower the DOF at any given distance.

If you aren't sure whether your shots are out of focus or because of camera shake, if it is out of focus some part of the image will be pin sharp, you can look for this by zooming in to the picture in photoshop by at least 300% and moving round teh image. if nowhere's pin sharp you have camera shake, if there is a clear area of sharpness at any given distance from yur camera across the image at that distance it's out of focus/ has too shallow depth of field so you'll need to stop down, e.g. f4 to f8. as a guide the shutter speed needs to be at least the same as the focal length of the lens, e.g. for a 35mm SLR (or full frame DSLR) a 50mm standard focal lenth lens needs a MINIMUM shutter speed of 1/50 sec to avoid camera sake, ideally at least twice that. obviusly as you double shutter speed you have to open teh lens by 1 stop or increase the ASA seting on the camera by the same (e.g. up from 200ASA to 400ASA) to keep correct exposure.

Looks like your using the tamron? if so camera shake's the most likely cause if you're hand holding. You don't say what camera you're using- if it's a normal DSLR (i.e. not full frame) the shutter speed will need to be increased to match the 'new' lens length by the muliplication factor caused by a smaller cmos sensor. typically 1.5 for Canon, 1.6 for nikon, so if your using a full frame lens on a canon at an indicated 100mm focal length because of the smaller sensor the effective focal length of the lens becomes 150mm, so you'd need shutter speed of at least that if you intend hand holding the camera. Hope this helps and appologies if you already know all this info dump!

Anything else I can help you with please ask Ade