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yetiscot

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    Northumberland

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    170 Elegance 4x4 in metallic grey

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  1. Last weekend! Going on Fleabay, Monday. Grab a bargain now!
  2. Been asked for a photo, so here it is: Rearguard fitted to Skoda Yeti Note way less than half price! The guard I have for sale is for for a standard Yeti--not the City trim.
  3. No problem- it was a pleasure to help some nice people out. Good luck and safe journey home tomorrow.
  4. For sale Rearguard bumper protector for Skoda Yeti F/L. Never fitted. It's the black plastic type. £20 ono Will post. Located in Northumberland
  5. For sale genuine Skoda Yeti roofbars complete with the special fixing bolts Little use in good condition. Located in Northumberland Will post delivery included. £80 ono
  6. For sale a set of 4 Avon Ice Touring tyres on steel rims in good condition. 6mm tread on tyres. Rims could do with a rub down and coat of paint. Were fitted to a Yeti. Size 215 60 R16 Located in Northumberland. £100 ono Stored dry and dark.
  7. As a recent "victim" --I know , wait for it, " why are you so stupid?" etc Apparently about 150000 people a year in the UK alone, in the same boat. The AA chap says they sort out at least 6 people a day in my local area who have misfuelled a diesel car-- so obviously there is an issue. There are quite a few devices out there, but on closer investigation not many apparently fit a Yeti. So has anyone tried any of these things and with what success. Car is ok by the way. Didn't drive it so was just a matter of draining the tank and a new fuel filter to be on the safe side. As a side note Ford and BMW do fit as standard devices to their filler caps--so why not VAG?
  8. The part number will be different as it's a different shape to the old bumper The tailgate does not appear to be significantly different to the old version The new bumper is much better than the old one as it does away with an awful dirt trap at the back of the bodywork I would try it if you can get it cheap enough--I suppose you can always re flog it if it is no good I shouldn't have thought they will have changed the body fixings for it---that would be rather expensive just for a minor facelift
  9. You were unlucky to have it happen 3 times!
  10. Honest John has some advice on this FWIW. http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/running-in-a-diesel/ I have followed this as far as possible and have never added oil between services
  11. Bought mine there with about 3k discount. Found the sales staff helpful enough although they wanted to hold onto the reg doc as the car was a pre reg[ see my previous posts on that issue] When pressed the reg doc was transferred at the time of the sale. Found the telephone the best method of contact. Ask for Debbie at Preston
  12. I get a transmission clunk when reversing with a good deal of steering lock on, like when reversing out of a parking space. I guessed it was a differential issue with the Haldex because of the large difference in rotating distance between the back and front wheels. I don't remember my pre FL car doing this though. Thought I would leave it and mention it at the first service
  13. There are a number of threads on here about the bars The issue is complicated somewhat by the fact that the spec for the small bolts has been changed Firstly you need to have at least 8 of the tapered fixing bolts to fit the bars. No other bolts but those that come with the bars will work as they have a groove machined in them that the bars attach onto. If you have a pre FL car there will be 10 holes for the bolts. This was in order to give you an alternative fixing position at the rear of the car The original bolts were fixed using a torx fitting. This has been changed now to an allen key, which having fitted both types, is much better When fitting them I placed a thick old towel on the roof as the bolts are inclined downwards towards the roof and are quite close, so if your wrench slips you are in grave danger of scratching the paint. Also because they are inclined downwards it is very easy to get them cross threaded. Getting them started is further complicated because there is a thick layer of threadlock on them. You will need to do it off a stepladder or similar. The torque for the bolts is quoted at 5nm. I don't have a torque wrench which goes that low or is small enough to fit in the space, so I nipped them up tight and figured the threadlock will do the rest. All fine so far anyway! Don't go mad, 5nm isn't very much. If there does not appear to be much threadlock on the bolts supplied, I would put some more on. You can buy the bolts separately, but they are a kings ransom for 8 bolts[£24 from memory] The instructions say they should only be reused 3 times, I guess that will be because you will lose threadlock every time Sounds complicated but just take your time. The biggest issue I think is not to get cross threaded Good luck!
  14. If you have conditions of reduced visibility you should have your dipped headlamps on and if you wish you can then illuminate your fog lamps if fitted. So the dipped headlamp condition should be fulfilled first in fog--- they are not there just for the benefit of the driver, but also to make your vehicle more visible to other road users, in particular pedestrians and cyclists come to mind. To my mind the people who use their fog lights in good visibility deserve the ticket they should get, especially if they are driving only on[ obligatory]side lights as well
  15. Why not just a piece of ss chequer plate velcroed to the wheel arch? I don't have big feet and the space between the wheel arch and the edge of the pedal is quite small already My idea also gets round any safety issues re the foot rest in a possibly dangerous place, if for instance, the welt on your footwear got stuck under the edge of it?
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