bahnstormer vrs

Rear ARB fitted this afternoon. Mechanic / technician grumbled about the awkwardness of feeding the thicker bar into position; had to get a colleague to help and lean on the exhaust and ease it out of the way. Maybe my eibachs & B6s were an influence too. Plus the OE bolts were well and truly oxidised in. Short 10 mile drive home, with only a couple of roundabouts to test any changes to the feel of the handling. Hard to say but the rear end seems tighter, giving less understeer, and certainly more influenced by bobbles in the road surface. Pleased so far. Of note is that the surface of the OE ARB, 7.5 years and 65K miles that I now have in the garage, is very distressed with the powder coated paint bubbling off in numerous placed.

@vollansjames thanks for the suggestion, which is appreciated. I've shied away from doing the front ARB as the front subframe needs to be dropped out, to get at the front ARB. This makes it expensive on time/labour cost (not able to do the work myself these days). Got mine booked in for Friday afternoon at a local garage. Guy

Thanks for the info. The bar turned up today; part number is OK. I also had a look under the rear of my Yeti today and it all looks rather tight so, as I have ramps, not axle stands, and I don't feel comfortable about working underneath in the space available, I think I'll trust the work to a local garage.

I'd aim to stick with what you have got i.e. Pirelli Cinturatos as, to my mind, you should always have all four tyres the same. Bring your current rear tyres to the front and fit new ones to the rear. Mind you the offer from @ernieb of 4 Goodyear Efficient Grip tyres is most generous and seriously worth considering. Guy

Thanks for the advice @muddyboots. I've got the multi-splined socket from when I changed the arb on my Octavia vRS. Not sure yet whether to try it myself or get it done at a garage. I've not got decent jacks, but have some ramps to get the car raised up, but suspension will still be compressed. I know the workshop manual states on a hoist, so the rear wheels hang down. Main query is access to bolts and space to wiggle the arb out and new one in, when up on ramps. Guy

Hi gents, seems this thread is due its two-year 'thread resurrection'! Apologies for not being around much over the last few years, lots going on with a new interest that takes up a lot of my time and things going on at home. Suffice to say I'm here and still have Kevin, my Yeti, upgraded a while back with Bilstein B6s, as the standard shocks were 'shot' due, I fell, to a mismatch with the eibach lowered springs I had fitted. Planning to keep him for a few more years as I can';t find a comparable alternative that I like. Back on topic; Bought a 3C0 511 305 D rear anti-roll bar (same as @muddyboots has fitted), a couple of days ago. Due for delivery tomorrow. Hoping to get it fitted soon.

Had a look at a Karoq SE L a couple of days ago and it had a 'skinny' spare wheel in the boot 125/70 R 18 if I recall. Doubt a Yeti spare wheel will be compatible. Guy

Interesting comments. Still got my 60 plate Yeti 'vRS' and starting to think shall I change or keep. Don't particularly want to go bigger e.g. Karoq / Tiquan / Ateca - my neighbour has a '66 Tiguan and it looks huge next to my Yeti. T-Roc / Arona are a possible option thinking they'd be the same size as Yeti, but they're smaller. :problem: Perhaps I'm mistaken. Guy PS> Maybe I should post this in a different area.

Did you use the VAG 1.9L bottles or a filling station pump?Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

Yes, it is an afterthought as the Yeti was not designed for the Adblue system and it had to be fitted into a convenient space i.e. the underfloor storage space in the boot.In the new Superb, designed for Adblue, the filler is simply next to the fuel filler and the tank underneath somewhere. Adblue system is needed to get the TDI engines to comply with Euro 6 emissions regs, hence fitted as part of MY2016 specification. Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

Cambelt change due at five years old if TDI engine? Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

A bit of thread resurrection, but I don't need to start a new one. Just simply to validate muddyboots's instructions to change the HID bulbs in a pre-facelift Yeti are absolutely spot on and, as he reported, only took 10-15 minutes as I changed the bulbs on Kevin on Friday. There was one additional item I did which was, after opening the bonnet, to remove the Headlamp fuses, F16 & F26, from the engine bay fusebox next to the battery. I replaced the OEM bulbs with Phillips Xtreme Plus HIDs from powerbulbs with, following a long night drive on Friday, excellent results. Guy Hope this helps

So potentially the same arb as used on the Tiguan 170.Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

I should perhaps clarify Graham that I meant 'suffer excess wear' rather than 'fail'. It seems to happen with Yeti that are frequently heavily loaded e.g. towing a horse box perhaps and driven over rough, unmade (farm) tracks. Instances are perhaps rare, hence not popping up on here. PS> this is, in hindsight, unrelated to weasley's issue. Guy

Sorry, no. Got my local dealership to do it for me. Seemed to be straight forward, although the Technician did mention that it was a bit tight getting the base of the front shock into the cup on the hub/wishbone. He was also very impressed with the girth of the pistons on the front shock, but surprised that the rears are slimmer than OE. Guy