bahnstormer vrs

Rear ARB fitted this afternoon. Mechanic / technician grumbled about the awkwardness of feeding the thicker bar into position; had to get a colleague to help and lean on the exhaust and ease it out of the way. Maybe my eibachs & B6s were an influence too. Plus the OE bolts were well and truly oxidised in. Short 10 mile drive home, with only a couple of roundabouts to test any changes to the feel of the handling. Hard to say but the rear end seems tighter, giving less understeer, and certainly more influenced by bobbles in the road surface. Pleased so far. Of note is that the surface of the OE ARB, 7.5 years and 65K miles that I now have in the garage, is very distressed with the powder coated paint bubbling off in numerous placed.

@vollansjames thanks for the suggestion, which is appreciated. I've shied away from doing the front ARB as the front subframe needs to be dropped out, to get at the front ARB. This makes it expensive on time/labour cost (not able to do the work myself these days). Got mine booked in for Friday afternoon at a local garage. Guy

Thanks for the info. The bar turned up today; part number is OK. I also had a look under the rear of my Yeti today and it all looks rather tight so, as I have ramps, not axle stands, and I don't feel comfortable about working underneath in the space available, I think I'll trust the work to a local garage.

I'd aim to stick with what you have got i.e. Pirelli Cinturatos as, to my mind, you should always have all four tyres the same. Bring your current rear tyres to the front and fit new ones to the rear. Mind you the offer from @ernieb of 4 Goodyear Efficient Grip tyres is most generous and seriously worth considering. Guy

Thanks for the advice @muddyboots. I've got the multi-splined socket from when I changed the arb on my Octavia vRS. Not sure yet whether to try it myself or get it done at a garage. I've not got decent jacks, but have some ramps to get the car raised up, but suspension will still be compressed. I know the workshop manual states on a hoist, so the rear wheels hang down. Main query is access to bolts and space to wiggle the arb out and new one in, when up on ramps. Guy

Hi gents, seems this thread is due its two-year 'thread resurrection'! Apologies for not being around much over the last few years, lots going on with a new interest that takes up a lot of my time and things going on at home. Suffice to say I'm here and still have Kevin, my Yeti, upgraded a while back with Bilstein B6s, as the standard shocks were 'shot' due, I fell, to a mismatch with the eibach lowered springs I had fitted. Planning to keep him for a few more years as I can';t find a comparable alternative that I like. Back on topic; Bought a 3C0 511 305 D rear anti-roll bar (same as @muddyboots has fitted), a couple of days ago. Due for delivery tomorrow. Hoping to get it fitted soon.

Had a look at a Karoq SE L a couple of days ago and it had a 'skinny' spare wheel in the boot 125/70 R 18 if I recall. Doubt a Yeti spare wheel will be compatible. Guy

Interesting comments. Still got my 60 plate Yeti 'vRS' and starting to think shall I change or keep. Don't particularly want to go bigger e.g. Karoq / Tiquan / Ateca - my neighbour has a '66 Tiguan and it looks huge next to my Yeti. T-Roc / Arona are a possible option thinking they'd be the same size as Yeti, but they're smaller. :problem: Perhaps I'm mistaken. Guy PS> Maybe I should post this in a different area.

Did you use the VAG 1.9L bottles or a filling station pump?Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

Yes, it is an afterthought as the Yeti was not designed for the Adblue system and it had to be fitted into a convenient space i.e. the underfloor storage space in the boot.In the new Superb, designed for Adblue, the filler is simply next to the fuel filler and the tank underneath somewhere. Adblue system is needed to get the TDI engines to comply with Euro 6 emissions regs, hence fitted as part of MY2016 specification. Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

Cambelt change due at five years old if TDI engine? Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

A bit of thread resurrection, but I don't need to start a new one. Just simply to validate muddyboots's instructions to change the HID bulbs in a pre-facelift Yeti are absolutely spot on and, as he reported, only took 10-15 minutes as I changed the bulbs on Kevin on Friday. There was one additional item I did which was, after opening the bonnet, to remove the Headlamp fuses, F16 & F26, from the engine bay fusebox next to the battery. I replaced the OEM bulbs with Phillips Xtreme Plus HIDs from powerbulbs with, following a long night drive on Friday, excellent results. Guy Hope this helps

So potentially the same arb as used on the Tiguan 170.Guy Sent from my Xperia Z5 Premium

I should perhaps clarify Graham that I meant 'suffer excess wear' rather than 'fail'. It seems to happen with Yeti that are frequently heavily loaded e.g. towing a horse box perhaps and driven over rough, unmade (farm) tracks. Instances are perhaps rare, hence not popping up on here. PS> this is, in hindsight, unrelated to weasley's issue. Guy

Sorry, no. Got my local dealership to do it for me. Seemed to be straight forward, although the Technician did mention that it was a bit tight getting the base of the front shock into the cup on the hub/wishbone. He was also very impressed with the girth of the pistons on the front shock, but surprised that the rears are slimmer than OE. Guy

Very much appreciate your comments Lee; thanks. I'd read previously of you doing laden, continental trips hence the rear bump stop usage; Kevin rarely has more than me on board. Mind you, its very comforting to know that bump stops are integral to the B6s. :clap: I'm sure you're correct about the top mounts, I might think about changing mine at some stage although it is now quite a job for a small part. On the tyre front you'll likely be fine with PS3s; its just that STS TyrePros in Stevenage Old Town whom I've used for many years (same group as KwikFit by the way) have the Pilot Super Sports in the 225/45 18 95Y that I use at a very competitive price right now. Keep up the good work with Beti. Guy

Octavia III owner get three years free updates, downloadable via a weblink onto the maps SD card, as part of their new car purchase. Guy

Having a 'spare wheel kit' will raise the boot floor by 5 inches or so to bring it more or less level with the threshold / lip of the bumper. You'll also get useful storage bins either side of the wheel (16" steel with 195/60 R16 tyre - IIRC) Guy

Sorry to hear of your previous woes. Looking at the photo I'd advise not to drive but get yeti recovered to a dealership. Guy

A very definite possibility! Get thee down to your local dealership pronto (and slowly). Perhaps even call out Skoda Assistance or the AA/RAC/GreenFlag (assuming you are a member) and get them to flatbed Yeti to dealer. You ought to consider the cause of the bolts being missing. It is not unknown for the UJ between the propshaft and Haldex box to fail. Overall though, hope its not too serious. Guy

Following on from the above I eventually got around to dealing with the shocks for Kevin and he now has a resplendent set of Bilstein B6s fitted (last Thursday) along with the Passat Sport rear bump stops; I decided to leave out changes to top mounts. Very many thanks for the part numbers. Whilst I have yet to do some proper 'brisk' motoring I have noticed an immediate improvement with the B6s. I've had eibach springs fitted for the last 18 months or more and with OE shocks I'd always reckoned they were mismatched with the shocks not being strong enough. Moreover, in recent months Kevin had started pitching around on bumps and M'way undulations; I'm sure therefore the OE shocks were getting weak. Additionally, over minor road surface imperfections (small potholes etc.) the ride had become incredibly harsh and crashy. With the B6s all that has gone. Yes: I can clearly feel they are a strong shock absorber but they are not stiff (unlike Koni Sport and FSDs I've had in the past on other cars). Ride comfort is excellent, certainly every bit as good as a Yeti on OE springs (remember I've got Koni lowered ones) and body control is great, having lost all sense of floatiness and pitching; it is now really stable. On the bump stop front, my OE rear bump stops were barely worn; likely a legacy of me rarely driving laden, but I fitted the Passat Sport rear ones. I bought a pair of OE front bump stops, just for the hell of it, but then found that the piston/shaft of the Bilsteins is so fat they won't fit! So I've gone without at the front. Re-looking carefully at your photos it appears you have done the same; is that so? Overall, albeit with a bit more testing to do, I'm already thinking that I've done a really good setup change and one of the better ones I've done over the years; B6s really suit the Yeti. Thanks again for your comments, advice and acting as Guinea Pig. All I need now are some new summer tyres in a month or so and have pre-bought some Michelin Pilot Super Sports for this. Thanks again. Guy

Hi Lee - hope you don't mind the following comments in Beti's thread. Following on from the above I eventually got around to dealing with the shocks for Kevin and he now has a resplendent set of Bilstein B6s fitted (last Thursday) along with the Passat Sport rear bump stops; I decided to leave out changes to top mounts. Very many thanks for the part numbers. Whilst I have yet to do some proper 'brisk' motoring I have noticed an immediate improvement with the B6s. I've had eibach springs fitted for the last 18 months or more and with OE shocks I'd always reckoned they were mismatched with the shocks not being strong enough. Moreover, in recent months Kevin had started pitching around on bumps and M'way undulations; I'm sure therefore the OE shocks were getting weak. Additionally, over minor road surface imperfections (small potholes etc.) the ride had become incredibly harsh and crashy. With the B6s all that has gone. Yes: I can clearly feel they are a strong shock absorber but they are not stiff (unlike Koni Sport and FSDs I've had in the past on other cars). Ride comfort is excellent, certainly every bit as good as a Yeti on OE springs (remember I've got Koni lowered ones) and body control is great, having lost all sense of floatiness and pitching; it is now really stable. On the bump stop front, my OE rear bump stops were barely worn; likely a legacy of me rarely driving laden, but I fitted the Passat Sport rear ones. I bought a pair of OE front bump stops, just for the hell of it, but then found that the piston/shaft of the Bilsteins is so fat they won't fit! So I've gone without at the front. Re-looking carefully at your photos it appears you have done the same; is that so? Overall, albeit with a bit more testing to do, I'm already thinking that I've done a really good setup change and one of the better ones I've done over the years; B6s really suit the Yeti. Thanks again for your comments, advice and acting as Guinea Pig. All I need now are some new summer tyres in a month or so and have pre-bought some Michelin Pilot Super Sports for this. Thanks again. Guy

Couldn't quickly find any replacement led DRLs so switched back to OE one on Good Friday. It reminded me how much of a PITA it is to remove / install the DRLs. Never again! Guy

THREAD RESURRECTION . . . . . Well, after two and a bit years my SuperSkoda LED DRLs need replacing. I've noticed in recent months that the light pattern was uneven and lo, yesterday, I got a message on my MFD to 'check left front daylight running light'. Both bulbs are working but on close inspection there are at least 5-6 LED diodes on each bulb that are not giving out light. This explains the uneven light I have been seeing and I've likely got one diode too many that has blown on the left bulb to trigger the bulb warning. Decision now is whether to get replacement LED DRLs or revert to OE spec bulbs (which I've got tucked away). Investigation required. Guy

Surely the 'plug' has to be pulled through from the inside of the tyre? So you're going to stop at the roadside, Jack the car up, remove the wheel, dismount the tyre from the rim. . . . . ? Guy