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KylePiggy85

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Burgess Hill W.Sussex

Car Info

  • Model
    2001 octavia 1.8T 4x4 estate

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  1. ave not tested new stat but turned out old stat was fine. what i dont get is why there is no flow and hot air makes no sense, am tempted just to flush the coolant system with caustic or dishwasher tab have not got much else to loose as car is undrivable
  2. i found this http://www.scribd.com/doc/40477415/3-cylinders-engines-for-Skoda-cars-Engine-code-AWY-AZQ#scribd 6th or7th page down shows the flow of the coolant
  3. would run some serious coolant cleaner if it exist just incase the internals are partially blocked but if i suck and blow on the header return hose can get water back in the header and out of the return pipe
  4. right update on fix today. So fitted new pump nothing wrong with old one, still getting hot no hot air through heater and water not returning to header, have checked everything ended up taking out new stat just incase it was a dodgy one. with stat out bottom rad hose does get hot and there is no restriction in the water channels of the engine block i am at a stand still and cant work it out any help would be awesome
  5. 302 running a Tremac T5 sport box with long 5th gear coupled to custom single piece prop and 2.8 lsd axle
  6. The seats are a bit gay being in blue do need a retrim but are very rare puma btcc cup car bucket seats
  7. thanks for the advice going to replace belt for the sake of £12 i take it i just loosen the alternator to get slack in belt ?. all these modern engines are new to me my other car is a capri with a small block ford v8 piece of **** to fix lol
  8. so removed top return pipe on header and the flow was very slow pretty much just drips, on fast idle it was much better but bottom rad hose freezing cold,
  9. Hey guys been a while since my skoda ownership. Just picked up a 03 fabia classic 1.2 6v 54hp had some issues around running hot for the first week i removed the stat as the bottom rad hose was cold this fixed the issue and managed to do my weekly commute of 350 miles, VCDS came up with faulty temp sensor so on wednesday i treated the old girl to new thermostat housing complete with stat and temp sensor. I drained the coolant system as it had green coolant and checking online should be red so i flushed the whole system through the header tank with hose pipe for around 10 mins all seemed to be flowing also gave the heater matrix its own clear out. Once i flushed the system i reset the error codes then ran the car up to temp with the header tank cap off checked all hoses and the bottom rad hose and the right hose of the heater matrix was cold and it started to get the warning light up as was reaching 120 degrees. Now the only thing i can think of replacing now is the water pump my reasoning is when the car is a running temp there is no hot air from the heater but if i run the car at fast idle some heat starts the get through. Did this model come with the plastic impeller on the pump im thinking this might of broken reducing water flow. any help would be great sorry for the long message.
  10. im a bit surprised no one is that interested yes it has some minor bodywork basically a new front bumper at some point but seen them advertised on ebay and autotrader for over 2K this is a bargain most of the hard work is done just a remap and ur golden also the eml light can then be deleted as lack of cat
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