KylePiggy85

ave not tested new stat but turned out old stat was fine. what i dont get is why there is no flow and hot air makes no sense, am tempted just to flush the coolant system with caustic or dishwasher tab have not got much else to loose as car is undrivable

i found this http://www.scribd.com/doc/40477415/3-cylinders-engines-for-Skoda-cars-Engine-code-AWY-AZQ#scribd 6th or7th page down shows the flow of the coolant

would run some serious coolant cleaner if it exist just incase the internals are partially blocked but if i suck and blow on the header return hose can get water back in the header and out of the return pipe

right update on fix today. So fitted new pump nothing wrong with old one, still getting hot no hot air through heater and water not returning to header, have checked everything ended up taking out new stat just incase it was a dodgy one. with stat out bottom rad hose does get hot and there is no restriction in the water channels of the engine block i am at a stand still and cant work it out any help would be awesome

302 running a Tremac T5 sport box with long 5th gear coupled to custom single piece prop and 2.8 lsd axle

The seats are a bit gay being in blue do need a retrim but are very rare puma btcc cup car bucket seats

thanks for the help

thanks for the advice going to replace belt for the sake of £12 i take it i just loosen the alternator to get slack in belt ?. all these modern engines are new to me my other car is a capri with a small block ford v8 piece of **** to fix lol

so removed top return pipe on header and the flow was very slow pretty much just drips, on fast idle it was much better but bottom rad hose freezing cold,

thanks for advice going to check now will update soon

Hey guys been a while since my skoda ownership. Just picked up a 03 fabia classic 1.2 6v 54hp had some issues around running hot for the first week i removed the stat as the bottom rad hose was cold this fixed the issue and managed to do my weekly commute of 350 miles, VCDS came up with faulty temp sensor so on wednesday i treated the old girl to new thermostat housing complete with stat and temp sensor. I drained the coolant system as it had green coolant and checking online should be red so i flushed the whole system through the header tank with hose pipe for around 10 mins all seemed to be flowing also gave the heater matrix its own clear out. Once i flushed the system i reset the error codes then ran the car up to temp with the header tank cap off checked all hoses and the bottom rad hose and the right hose of the heater matrix was cold and it started to get the warning light up as was reaching 120 degrees. Now the only thing i can think of replacing now is the water pump my reasoning is when the car is a running temp there is no hot air from the heater but if i run the car at fast idle some heat starts the get through. Did this model come with the plastic impeller on the pump im thinking this might of broken reducing water flow. any help would be great sorry for the long message.

SOLD SOLD SOLD

BUMP up for weekend

make room lol

im a bit surprised no one is that interested yes it has some minor bodywork basically a new front bumper at some point but seen them advertised on ebay and autotrader for over 2K this is a bargain most of the hard work is done just a remap and ur golden also the eml light can then be deleted as lack of cat

BUMP again just to the forum guys £750 lowest i can go need the space

car is now sorn price drop to 900 need it gone ASAP

edited description what a numpty i am

maybe i didnt write it properly the exhaust blow is coming not from the turbo but the downpipe join to the exhaust manifold hence the slight exhaust blow

bump anyone interested i am open to offers

2001 Skoda Octavia 1.8 turbo 4x4 123k on the clock mot Jan 2015 tax till 1st august 2014 part service history up to 110k selling due to needing a diesel as now doing more miles mods. 3 inch turbo downpipe and decat was a nightmare to fit but is well worth it. does have slight blow from downpipe join to manifold not major. cold air indction kit adjustable recirc dump valve Toyosport FMIC kit fits very well made adjusters for the mounting. all original turbo pipework has been removed can come with car if wanted all ready for stage 2 shark map. the eml light is on hence there is no CAT this can be mapped out have enabled window roll up/down on key fob. bodywork is good for age related marks scratches and small scuff on nsf wing just above bumper. the bumper needs some new bolts on inner wing as it has come loose slightly and the bumper lip has split in the middel needs some cable tie love to sort. wheels are in amazing condition and loads of tread on tyres. over the last 2 years of ownership has been serviced by myself also had new nsf lower arm both front antirollbar bushes and both rear droplinks. bad bits all cars have them car comes with the optional rust on the tailgate just below rear screen. also the screen is only 1yr old due to it smashed one cold day when i closed the door lol car really could do with discs and pads all round the car has been sat for around 3 weeks so will prob be noisy on test drive aftermarket cd head unit radio does not work well never bothered me. drives very nice and interior is very clean for age. viewing welcome and test drive only if you prove that you are covered on your insurance. looking for £900 Car is located in haywards heath west sussex RH16 4JH. name is Kyle number is 07515126489 any questions please feel free to message txt or phone

so is this the best gearbox to get ??

hi guys a friend of mine has just bought a Y plate Audi A3 1.8 quattro. engine code on vin and vcds says AUM but when i took the engine cover stamped on the code plate it says ARY. is this something he should be worried about. thanks

The top half of my original fob fitted no problems and vcds coded the key fine

Going to be relocating battery in boot when I have some spare time think it will look much better