aj_erst

So this only happens when you step on the accelerator pedal or come off it, it seems to be worse at lower reves, there's a slight annoying jerk to either the engine or gearbox, I thought it might have been an engine mount but skoda say no, as they look fine after there visual inspection of the mounts 🤔 it's like some thing moves in either the engine or gearbox when you accellerate and then moves back when you decelerate. It's not a major problem, more annoying but I know it's not right. It's a 1.6 greenline 2wd. Any suggestions

Possibly, I will have to try a third one to rule that out 👍

So the switches work, changed window motor drivers side, comfort unit, fuses, checked for wire brakeges in door jam etc. Tried resetting windows with key. Disconnected batter for a day to reset ecu. I'm convinced it's a software problem now, as sometimes the passenger window works then doesn't, some times both windows work fine then don't, sometimes you press the button to go up and the window goes down. I'm at a loss now and am hoping I've missed something, any suggestions?

You sir are a geniouse! They have given me the wrong bulbs! Thanks for your help, it's just turned what was a really bad week around for me 👍👍👍👍👍

Thought they were double filiment

Eart point in the boot, do you mean on the bulb connector. Thanks

Yea was fully up when installed

Put a new brake switch on just to be sure, I've got the diesel engine light flashing now too

So both rear brake lights don't work, put new bulbs in and have checked fuse 2, oddly the tail light above rear windscreen is OK, and when I press the brake pedal the bulb light on the dash board bongs and illuminates, my electric windows are playing up too so don't know if it's related, any ideas

Hopefully this will help someone on here with the same issues. So my electric windows stopped working, they would basically work then not work, then the passenger would but not the drivers. So I went through the process of illumination, tested the switches and motors, swapped the 3 fuses out for new, still no luck, unplugged the 3 plugs behind the rubber in the drivers door jam to reseat them, still no luck. Disconnected the battery for an hour, tried to reset them by turning the key in the door all to no avail. So last on the list is the comfort control unit. It sits under the steering wheel to the right, you have to remove the bottom part of the dash to get to it. When getting a replacement make sure you get the exact same one with the same serial number and letter on the end. In my case it was a straight swap and it worked without needing to be programmed. Once swapped over and my window motors connected back up every thing worked fine. There is a circuit board in the drivers window motor that helps control the windows too so that has to be connected to get them working again. Happy days.

Having had problems with my car pulling left over the last 5 years as per my old posts on here, and visiting 4 different Alignment Companies ive finally had the problem fixed :) Just paid a visit yesterday to Bram Racing in Featherstone Yorkshire where Brad who owns the garage got to the bottom of the problem. He used the Hunter Machine to its full capacity, adjusting all the angles on my front wheels, making adjustments to the subframe which is where the problem was, he also knows a few other adjustment tricks where he fine tuned it to perfection. He was very enthusiastic about getting to the bottom of my problem, he spent time listening to my past experiences before offering me a coffee and getting to work. His attention to detail and knowledge far exceeded my expectations going by the experiences of other so called specialist garages using the same equipment and nothing was too much trouble for him, having a great laugh in the process. I can't thank them enough for putting my car right after all these years which is why I've taken the time to put a well deserved positive review about them. They really are the real deal when it comes to alignment.

OK will go and have a look at that now and make sure its tight :peek: , failing that it must be the gasket to the block by the looks of things I will change that next

Basically there is oil round the front of the engine block around where the oil filter housing sits, its doesnt look like its from the dipstick area.. does the oil filter housing have a gasket where it conects to the engine block? it looks like it could be coming from there, can this be taken off for inspection? any thoughts appriciated

A load of German nonsense

Think you can get DIY tooth fixing kits if it helps.