paul bateman

I only read the post from Newbie today, over the last weekend I removed the visor and grab handles and managed to get to the drains quite easily and i've got big hands and sausage fingers. When I checked inside the white rubber connectectors there was evidence of some kind of sticky layer that had dried out ( like a peel and stick affair ). I cleaned and restuck with a clear waterproof polymer builders adhesive and used tie raps as previously mentioned, but having done the job I feel jubilee clips or spring clips like the ones used in washing machines would be a better option as I dont feel the tie raps tightened enough. Anyone tackled the rear ones without removing the headliner.

I have the same problem my sunroof is leaking from the white connectors, I know this as I can get my hand under the head lining and can feel the water dripping. I have been having problems removing the grab handles above the door also anyone help? any is there a guide to removing the head lining?

After 2000 miles of my wife driving the car it needed a blow out and I have great faith in modern engineering. I love the car and have no complaints. I average 45 MPG long term and have had 35mpg towing average over 120 mile trip with a 5 metre caravan on the back. I have never had a car that has not hit advertised top speed my Octavia exceeded it, but would like to know if anyone has hit the 125.

I bought my wife a TDI 170 Elegance Yeti with sunroof (waited 8 months for the roof), I drive a Octavia VRS 1.8T bought in 2002 from new. I like to go fast so when I picked up the Yeti march 2011 I have tried a few times but I cant seem to get it over 120 MPH, has anyone managed to get the 125 claimed?

My wife had a Fabia Silverline for 6 years and hers started to give power steering fault indications from year 3 on, problem was battery. This problem disappeared in the summer months when the battery was warm and fully charged and reappeared in the winter, new battery made no difference just keep old one charged in winter.

Have you checked the exhaust as it passes through the cross member? I have an 02 VRS and I had a similar clunking noise, the weld on the exhaust had came apart and splayed out the flange which knocked on the cross member. I fixed it with a large jubilee clip no probs since.

I think it was the N75 valve, problem has solved itself . I think because I must have been driving with a ****ty air filter (probably due to driving in Spain) the N75 valve was only opening 75% and maybe produced a grease ring inside the solenoid valve at the 75% mark and when the car could breath again the N75 opened 100% and stuck for a second and kept the waste gate open causing the dip. A week of acceleration bursts has cleared the problem. Thanks for the help.

No, I fitted a skoda origional all done very cleanly. Problem only really noticable on hard acceration when lifting foot off the throttle dip is there on 1 in 5 bursts, could this be an overactive dump valve?

I have a 2002 Mk 1 Octavia VRS standard and have owned it from new. Recently I am experiencing a power dip on acceleration, I have also just changed air filter. No fault codes any idea,s

Problem now fixed, was item 27 on gearchange list M5x12 screw holding athwartships pivot point in place total cost of repair 9p. Many thanks for advice. Paul.

gearstick gone floppy can only select 3rd or 4th, I think this maybe a linkage problem. any idea's

Hi I have lost the across the box options of the gearbox on my wifes 53 plate Fabia 1.2 silverline, it will only change between 3rd & 4th. I think it is a linkage problem maybe, happened on changing into 1st on exiting M27 I went to pull away from exit after stop and was in 3rd not first. No bangs clunks or indication. Gearstick very floppy no reverse any ideas.

Disconnecting the battery may mean that a throttle body alignment is required. I know on my Octavia it would be. This has to be done using Vag- com. Hope this helps.

I clear error codes all the time with the share ware version of VAG-Com, i regularly have to clear 'engine mapped temperature sensor' or as stated by some one else the codes clear eventually if the fault has gone (around twelve restarts).

buy a lead from Gendan on the internet about

DGW-Dennis, Top Banana! this is just what I was looking for many thanks Paul.

Quinten, as you probably guessed I am not greatly familiar with modern car systems. I am great with ships and submarines as I teach the RN Ships control systems and sensors (for which there is a temp sensor for everything). I am very greatful for you're excellent knowledge and experience and as you seem quite clued up on the VRS sensors, is there anywhere I can get a list of sensors and locations. What is iirc air temp? regards paul

Quinten, is the sensor that you referred to: cooling system? air temp? oil temp? Which one do I buy or is there only one.

I purchased a serial lead from Gendan, downloaded VAG-Com from ross-tech.com and came up with a fault code 17704 engine mapped temperature sensor. Anyone know this sensors location? and is this a comman defect. I have cleared the fault at the moment using the software and laptop, but need to be ready in case it returns.

I had the opposite problem on an old citroen zx, the tow ball was too low. I overcome this by using a drop plate for a caravan stabiliser. These aren't designed for ball height adjustment,but they do the trick. I towed my caravan to Spain and back nine times on this set up without any snags. Available from most caravan dealers. paul

I live in the Portsmouth area, has anyone in this area got one?

Hi, This has been my first real problem with the car apart from 4 x ignition coils. I have owned the car from new and it is just approaching 29k miles. The engine management light has been on for a day, the book says emissions and car performance may be reduced. I have gave it a blast and performance is still top notch, also fuel consuption seems better ????? any idea's Paul