russell wheeler

Oh, and - surely a custom remap is just that = ie customised to the individual power/settings of your engine/turbo etc, otherwise have a generic map. I would have thought a custom map would not move from vehicle to vehicle

Mine was remapped to stage 1, then a KME installed. The installer had to install a larger vapouriser and injectors, to cope with the additional power output. The LPG is then tuned to the petrol output. Doing it the other way round probably would not work

After 3 years and 50,000 miles, I have traded in my Vrs for a V50t5. If you see NV55 YUY kicking around, it was my old car. Great cars, 100% reliable, and it seemed more responsive and quicker than the T5 does.

Don't bother trying to paint it, it will never look as good as a professional job, and look worse than it does already. Another option is finding second hand parts in the correct colour

Just because it's ticked in the service book that the cambelt has been changed, without proof (ie a proper invoice), anyone can tick the service book. If you cannot get poof, I would change the cambelt, water pump and tensioners.

I like the lpg - http://www.fuelly.com/car/skoda/octavia/2005/russellwheeler/189874 - I could not afford to run it on the mileage I do on petrol, so it would be an old diesel.

My car has started with the rear wiper going on its own without being switched on. The opinion here seems to be that - they all do that sir - Anyone know what size blanking plug to get to I can chuck the whole mechanism in the bin ?

Hang on, if it's not your fault, and you are claiming from a 3rd party - irrespective of whether you and the 3rd party use the same insurers, you should be able to claim in full - without using your premium as part payment. It's different if a claim is made against you, and you are at fault. Stand up to them - You need the full payout to purchase another car.

I get 27.4 to the gallon, link to fuelly - http://www.fuelly.com/car/skoda/octavia/2005/russellwheeler/189874 10.5ppm all time includes all towing, and when LPG hit 75p per litre. LPG is 20% less calorific than petrol so would be 32.88 mpg if running on petrol.

Absolutely spot on, drives better than petrol, and with LPG at 49.9 a litre at the moment, 8ppm

bought in Jan 2013 with 150k on the clock to replace my V70T5 that the engine expired. Needed something cheap with a big boot, 5 seats, looks smart and could tow a 1.3 tonne caravan, and could run at 10ppm. Got the 55 reg vrs and immediately lpg'd it, serviced it and new cambelt kit. Now with 190k

wow, that's really expensive just for a head - £500 to £600 - 2k should get an engine rebuild !

Make sure its the head gasket 1st, have you had a pressure test to confirm ?

Mine is the same = Nov 2005 on a 55 plate vrs - Insurance and car parts go to 2004 - It's a 2004 model so parts fit, insurance can be a pain as you cannot select 2005 and then put in the mk1.

LPG the VRS = I am running at 8ppm with LPG costing 49.9 a litre at the moment.

After much messing about, it turned out to not like the oil in the gearbox, I changed it with something I got from Ebay, but this made no difference. Tried the forums and found this stuff does the job. Gear changes are now just as they used to be. New Febi Bilstein Car Gearbox Oil Genuine OE Quality Service Part No 21829

Sounds like a bad earth somewhere

DOH - helps if I read the fact you are in a diesel !

Standard VRS, I tow a 1.3 tonne caravan fully loaded car with kids bikes etc. No problems whatsoever with stability or caravan sitting too low. The stock shocks and springs seem fine for towing

Unfortunately not, radweld seems to have slowed it down a little, but it stinks when the heater is on. Any way of cutting the plastics away to gain access without removing the dash (then silicone/fibreglass back up when done). The car's done 185k, nearly 10 years old, and I am struggling to justify such a large expense. I haven't the time/skill to remove an entire dash..

Use the aircon to clear the screens, and keep the blowers on

Ouch - Just phoned my local VW specialist, £700 to do the job

Coolants fine, nice and pink, water level has dropped in the expansion tank, done about 500 miles so far this week, and it's lost about quarter of a pint -radweld in and fingers crossed !

mmm, radweld me thinks, and if that doesn't work, bypass the heater until Autumn, then think again !

Getting smelly steam when I turn the temp up to max, which then won't clear as it's sort of greasy. Checked the scuttle drains and they are clear, and no water leak inside the car. I'm assuming the heater matrix must be leaking - water level seems to be dropping slightly. Is this a really hard job to do, anyone got a guide ?