Harry1212

Inboxed

There's plenty of good mappers who can do it all online for you, I hear the name John from Hidden Power quite a bit on this forum so got to be decent.

You will definitely need a custom remap to suit the hybrid turbo.

It's not 2006, proper custom maps from reputable places only cost £150-£200 these days not like back in the day when you'd be looking at £350+

I have almost zero mechanical skills or the tools for the job, had it done at local garage

Mine was the loom and same code, changed it 3 days ago and its sorted now

How accurate is the dyno because i've heard people running almost 30bhp off what they were actually running

Declared for free with Admiral, they don't cover the mods so won't replace them but you can list them as long as it's mods their underwriters allow which let me declare everything apart from front tinted windows which are illegal so removed them last week.

The Airtec intercooler is perfect, I didn't buy their pipe kit though just the intercooler, too many joints for my liking, went with Darkside's pipe kit

Thank you for the replies and advice, definitely a great help, i'm going to go through with it

My 53 plate is getting a little old now and they are prone to rust, I plan on keeping the car for a while and try to keep on top of it in terms of keeping it clean and protected but I have never cleaned it underneath so thinking about getting it undersealed before the winter. I have a few rust spots on the rear quarter and on the edge of the arch on one side of the car where I also happen to have a scuff which is due to be sorted out and resprayed, so I can get the rust treated at the same time.

Diesel tuning is still at it's early stages, after going down the hybrid route myself i've discovered that if you want reliability then you should just stick to a simple stage 1 map from standard to 170/180bhp

I've ran a GT1756 hybrid at 235bhp and 340lbft on a brand new standard Sach's clutch and flywheel, both changed about 2 months earlier and no slipping at all

And there seem to be a lot of problems with these turbos, maybe it's just one supplier in particular but I have not heard about anything negative about the Darkside one or even other companies such as Turbo Dynamics

Phil Cooper at TRP Developments recently tested one and found that particular unit was only capable of holding around 1.8 bar and around 215bhp

A little something i've just found online Four issues with P17965. Vacuum pipes wrongly connected Map N75 valve failed, cannot bleed vacuum to air filter Map sensor failed, reading too high Turbo vanes stuck in max position A failed N75 valve should not cause over boost. It is only open to vacuum and pulling on the turbo actuator when it is energized by the signal from the ECU. If the valve fails or the ECU signal fails it will stop vacuum to the turbo actuator and "bleed vacuum" to the air filter. This stops boost and is a failsafe. Make sure the bleed pipe to the air filter is clear by pulling it off the N75 valve and blowing into it. It must NOT be blocked. If the MAP sensor and the N75 valve have been replaced then the fault is probably the turbo. The turbo vanes have been pulled open by the actuator and are sticking open causing over boost. This isn’t caused by a faulty actuator. It is usually caused by the actuator linkage being jammed. Try Clean the turbo with turbo cleaner. (This rarely works long term).Strip the turbo and clean properly. A faulty MAF should not give either under boost or over boost codes. A faulty EGR valve should not give either under boost or over boost codes, but a vacuum leak in any vacuum pipe can cause problems especially if a one way valve is not working.

The car itself drives fine, even when it begins to pull at around 2k revs it pulls smoothly but at around 3k revs there's a noticeable loss of boost and then suddenly a spike and boost is suddenly back and it pulls hard, but watching the boost on the gauge is often hits 2 bar before i stop accelerating, it's sometimes ok in 3rd gear up to about 50mph but any time I do this in 4th gear or higher or under load up hill it will just go into limp mode even if the boost is at 1 bar or less on the gauge

I know a few people with vag com and other software so was more wondering if there was some sort of test that can be done to see if it is functioning ok then i'd get all the pipes inspected and replace the entire vac box unit and see if that makes a difference Worded it a bit wrong haha, i was running a hybrid before so standard map to me would be your basic remap from stock 130 to 170-180bhp (or stage 1, as some call it)

I'm having an issue with my car at the moment, it overboosts and goes into limp mode, the only fault code that shows up is fault code 17965/P1557/005463 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation it boosts as normal after turning the engine off and back on, usually goes into limp mode under load and i've seen boost on the gauge go as far as 2 bar on the standard turbo, the car has a "safe" standard map with low torque and boost has also been restricted to a safe amount on the map I don't have sticky vanes, it's a brand new turbo and my previous turbo also did this which I removed thinking the turbo was faulty done a full service recently and i always run BP Ultimate diesel I want to now investigate the vacuum box to make sure it is working correctly, is there any way to do this, i've ordered some vacuum pipe off eBay which i'll be using to replace the pipes if i find any leaks in the pipes but before I do that is there any way to test the vacuum system? cheers

Local garage forecourt, actually went there to look at another car and had never ever thought about buying a Fabia until I saw it there in person and then went home to do some research on them, went back the next day to buy it!

Midland Turbo sell recons with all the gaskets and everything included for under £500

Oh and to add, there is slight movement under braking as well which I'm guessing is down to movement in the lower arm

I was having my alignment done a few days ago when they said my front passenger wheel had quite a bit of negative camber, they adjusted the toe and got it aligned but said I will need 2 new lower arms with bushes and tie rod ends Anyone had any issues like this before and what was it caused by?? collapsed bush??

Front end Friday!

Integra Type R DC5!