snaler

Hi Bradh, Did you manage do change the HG? Any issues? Any tips? I've got to do mine.... 1.9tdi

Hi, I know this was an old question, but did you find a solution to fixing your lock cylinder? I have same problem....

Did you get this apart in the end? I need to strip my lock barrel down and all the videos on YouTube are for the earlier type which is shorter.... I know this post was a while ago but Any tips gratefully received. Thanks in advance. Tony

Did you get anywhere with this? It sounds like water is getting in somewhere.(I think you've figured that already) AFAIK the drivers door controls everything (I've got mine apart now for a new lock barrel) I would look inside the drivers door at the pins by the window motor connectors check for damp and corrosion. Failing that try inside the passenger door and inspect the pins at the window motor connectors. There might also be connectors behind the dash, or at the fusebox which could be getting damp. Is the scuttle panel under the windscreen intact? and the drains under the bonnet below the windscreen clear. I regularly drive with a dismanlted door panel - it's not so bad!! Keep us posted if you solve it. Tony

Will I need the special two pronged tool for turning the tensioner? Is it the same as an angle grinder tool? or what is the spacing between the teeth and diam of the prongs Also, is it always necessary to loosen the camshaft sprocket from the shaft or will it sometimes fit without needing to disturb that? I found an audi A4 guide http://pics3.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf and it talks about needing an stubby 16mm socket for the tensioner on the alternator/PS/aircon belt Is that necessary on the Octy? Am I right thinking that the locking for the camshaft is behind the Vacuum pump? so that has to come off, or is there another way to lock the cam? Is marking it enough? lastly, is it possible to slip the belt around the back of the engine mount if I'm doing the water pump as well? or is that for another car? (can't remember where I read that...) Thanks again PS it's an AHF481000 engine if that makes a difference to anything

Thanks. I have VCDS lite. Will that be enough?

Hi, I'm psyching myself up to do the timing belt on a 2000 Octy1 1.9TDi - 150,000 miles - I've owned it 4 yrs. It's not PD. First time on timing belt, although I do all my other mechanical jobs myself. Is there a guide I can follow or can anyone advise what I need before I start. So far from research I can see I need to lock the Camshaft and Fuel pump (do I need special tools for this or will a drill bit or bit of rod do?) Do I need to remove the bumper etc? or the engine mount? Should I renew the water pump at same time? What do I need with regards Pulleys/tensioners? Are there any other jobs I shoul consider doing at the same time while I'm in there? The GSF kit is made by "a mixture of Ruville and Dayco" I can get is for £98 with their periodic 35%discount or people have said a Gates kit is good. Considering this one withor without Water pump http://www.micksgarage.com/proddetails.aspx?pid=1780648 any other suggestions? Thanks in advance Tony

Did you solve this in the end? What did you do that worked?

Hi Paul Did you get any further with this? Does it still start well with the new pump even when hot? Mine has similar long crank issue when hot. (2000 1.9tdi Octy1) It starts ok when cold, just takes a long time to start when hot as if it is having to build up the pressure again. I suspect a cracked injector or something, but I thought maybe a valve in the pump. It runs fine and has good mpg. No fuel smell, just smokes a bit when overtaking. Looking for a diesel test place in NW london to check the injectors... Any recommendations? anyone?

Can't really help directly. Came across this on the tdi forum http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=391922 Hope that's of some help. Did you try clearing the faults and then rescanning to make sure everything that comes up is current and not old data?

Sounds like you need new brake shoes in the rear. I have lots of photos - as I just did mine (I will make a guide at some point...) PM me if you want them. and one of my brake cylinders was sticking, but new shoes was essential. Oops - just noticed you have a vrs - does that mean you have discs all round? In wich case ignore my post. I have drums at the back. but you may still benefit from new pads.

Thanks. I managed to find the old clip still in its groove in the grease. Ended up cleaning it all properly. Only a bit worn/pitted (I like the idea, if doing both sides at the same time, of swapping the races over so the force acts on the unmarked side - get double use out of them!) Fitted the new circlip and hammered it home. It took quite a bit of persuading. I found I couldn't tell if it was home except by looking inside the boot that the splines weren't showing any more and the inner part of the cv joint was butted up nicely to the spring washer and the plastic cone (If I'd know in advance I would order a new one of these (plastic cone) as well, as there was a bit of wear in the plastic (why don't they include this in the boot kit along with the spring washer and the circlip and the hub nut? (I got the delux boot kit! from gsf)) This is helpful http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/fabia-mk1/chassis/front_suspension_drive_shafts/drive_shafts_with_cv_joints/iv_summary_of_components_of_drive_shaft_with_cv_joint/ and the plastic cone/ring is no.15

Just doing my cv gaiter. Is this any help? Mine is on standard springs & shocks afaik

I've just changed the outer CV boot on the off-side. 2000 Fabia Sdi My kit came with a C-shaped spring clip. Does this go in the groove in the end of the driveshaft? Or where? and then do I just hammer on the CV joint over it? I didn't see any sign of a clip when I took it off so I put it all back together with no clip but the shaft didn't engage with the cv joint and there was no power to the wheel.... Can someone describe how to do this last bit. Thanks. I did try hammering it over the clip but to no avail. Should I persist or is there a trick - maybe involving cable ties???? Should I look for the remains of the old broken clip in the grease? Does the Cv joint slide over the clip to the other side or does it just sit in the splines and grip it? Any help v much appreciated. Thanks

Ahh, -- shorts and flip flops.....that's just too much!!! (I watched this one )

I used this guy for my old octavia which had a round key. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180840507493?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 he's got all sorts of different keys (comes with transponder - make sure you get the right one) and this guy to get it cut (from a photo) Malcolm Dow [[email protected]] You'll also need transponder as actionman said either new or from your old key. but you need to programme a new one with vag tacho or equivalent (this will provide the key number) I got one off ebay for £15-£20 although mine was for a 2000 octavia (don't know if yours would have the same kind of ECU) or maybe you can just programme your second key - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83Co22N70Gw

Got mine done by this guy in Cardiff Malcolm Dow [[email protected]] Cost £5 Works fine. He let me know he'd received it and when he posted it back (next day).

I tried to adjust my idle speed with VCDS-lite (unreg'd) I got through to 'Engine', 'Adaptation' channel 2 I experimented with a few values and managed to drop it from 903 to 882 rpm I was hoping for a bit more reduction (I live in London and spend alot of time at traffic lights so I thought I'd boost my mpg a bit!!) My question is what does the 'value' actually mean? I changed it from 32768 to 32743 - it wouldn't go lower. I'd like to understand what I'm actually changing, if anyone knows. Are there other considerations here?? apart from just idle speed... Is there any other way of getting it lower? Thanks Tony 2000 Octy tdi

Thanks Actionman. What are the different ways of getting a SKC? Would this be essential if I came on 22nd? (are you am32 on ebay???)

You've probably soved this by now but I read in this thread http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/202517-faulty-central-locking-octavia-mk-1/ the CU is behind the light switch...(unless thats only for a mk1)

Thanks actionman. So when Quarry Bodger said that he had a key cloned how would that be done? If I got a key from you how do I match it to my car? Tony

I have one key for my 2000 octy, I was stunned at quotes for a second key - 180quid in one case!!! I managed to get hold of a copy of vagtacho - can I clone my existing key with that programme if I buy a second hand one on ebay? (I found one that LOOKS identical to mine on ebay (see pic below) is likely it to work for me? or are there lots of different versions in the same case?) My existing key has a 2 button remote in the key like in the pic below Will the vagtacho process also programme the remote locking or is that a separate process to linking the key to the immobiliser? Thanks Tony

Well, I finally solved my problem with a new pump (from the scrapyard!) I did manage to open the pump (with a chisel and a screwdriver - a bit like taking a tyre off a bicycle - you just have to work it round) I didn't take the bumper off, I did it all from inside the wheel arch, just removed the plastic arch liner (RHD) Did you manage to get the circuit board out? I couldn't see a way to remove the impeller to get at the screws to remove the circuit board. My local electronics shop said you need to see the back of the board to really identify failed components. I didn't have any obvious burnt out components like you did. Anyhow, all my faults - 1288 signal too high, 1290 short to plus, short to ground, implausible signal - they all disappeared with a new pump. I think the controller for the power steering is inside the pump. The only way I can think that VCDS reads 18volt at the pump is that the 5v signal to the sensor is being put across the negative terminal of the pump. The electronics are screwed inside there. So, in short, there seems to be little value in opening up the pump.... Correct me! Now I just hope I don't need a new rack as well...

Hi, Can anyone help me get the part number for my steering pump. The label has come off, only the bar code is left M07000117AM but I din't think that helps. The GSF part# is 434VG0250 I'm trying to source a 2nd hand pump and I want to confirm the part number. I tried an Audi A2 pump, but that didn't work as they don't use the G250 sensor even though it looked the same... Can I get it from VCDS? I have the lite version. Thanks Tony

Wow. great detective work! and really useful pictures. If my charged battery doesn't solve mine, I am encouraged to try this. Thanks!