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How did you get to that temp sensorunder the pollen filter please? Look like a right pita!

Thanks very much. Ill look into it.

Hi all. I have just changed my diverter valve on my 04 1.8t vrs as the old one was causing a tiny bot of compressor stall. On removal I found this horrible not quite oil like residue on the hose barb ends. its a standard bosch one. any one come across this before. car is running fine without smoke. The inside of the valve is not oily and the inside of the hoses are a bit sooty but nothing more than I expected from a 140k car that has never been cleaned out. Its also had a remap if that makes any difference. standard air-box and piper cross panel filter. Could someone have siliconed the hose barbs to put the hoses back on. the valve has been changed at some point prior to my ownership as the single use clips have been replaced with jubalie clips. any help would be welcome. Hopefully its not bad as i have just bought Koni dampers and H&R springs form DPM with a bushing kit. Thanks A

Do you still have the wheel spacers for sale? How much will postage be? And will they fit a octy mk1 vrs

any chance still for sale? dont worry just found it sold on ebay

Hi are these still available? and will they fit my MK 1 vrs hatch back?

sorry i have had it on the VCDS but some time ago. (this has been an on going problem) and it flagged the sensor but wasn't told much more then that. I wonder if anyone is local to Trowbridge in Wiltshire may have one for me to kindly plug in?

Thanks. Yes it helped. The sensor appears to be working correctly. Did the workshop manual have a wiring diagram at all please?.

Hi all I have been having problems with my outside air temp sensor showing a consistent 10C below ambient on both the clock cluster and the climatronic thingy. This causes the air-con not to come on a demist the windscreen in the morning. I have changed the sensor behind the front bumper but this hasn't solved the issue. I checked the supply voltage to the sensor and it was reading 5v. should this be 12v? thanks Ant p.s. I'm also having driver door issues central locking and micro switch just in case they may be related. .

I have just had my 04 1.8t Octavia map done by a local mapper who is a specialists in RS focus'. The car has mapped amazingly well. 213.9hp and 330nm torque. But I have this limp mode problem too. After a long drive without out pushing the car the boost is limited to 0.4bar some times 0.7bar when pulling. Also sitting in traffic after a spirited drive and then pulling away again. the car will not have the power it had. Cycling the ignition works brings it back even when rolling. I have used the torque app and a Bluetooth OBD module to look at some of the sensor readings and i cant find anything abnormal. AFR, MAF, Intake pressure etc. My coolant sensor is reading 73C and the dash gauge is reading 95C ( not sure if that is a problem) I'm running all standard hardware. this happened straight after the mapping. Could leaning the AFR out too much higher in the RPM cause this? The mapper said he had leaned it out a bit and advanced the timing ever so slightly, turbo up to 1.1 bar sustained but see a second gear surge of 1.6bar. could this also be a mapping error? Thanks

Having the spindle spinning problem atm with my mk1 vrs. Any pics of the allen key mod and where to shuv it?

awesome thanks... what size seal press kit did you use? I bought a seal press kit but it didn't have a 74mm press.

Hi. Do you need to removed the drive shaft form the hub on either side?

I have scanned the car for error codes using one of these Bluetooth dongle things and torque software on my phone and nothing has come up. but im not sure if that will run a decent diagnostic any ways. Anyone had any luck with these?

Thanks for the help. Will probably be a good job to get done this weekend. Will be a little chilly though. Brrrrrrr.

Thanks for this!

Thanks for the reply. Any idea where the aftermarket door membranes came from? mine is pretty trashed now.

Hi All I have had some funny behavior on my 2004 Octavia VRS recently. Central didn't work on the drivers door, micro switch on the drivers door was intermittent and the led light by the door lock indicator was always on. I traced this back to a wet connector for the control module in the door which i have since removed as it was smoking and running my battery flat!!! But another thing that has happened is the temperature on the dash display and the climate control is reading 10C below actual. I removed (what i think is) the environment sensor from under front valance and the temp is still reading 10C below ambient. Is there another temp sensor somewhere or do I need to put a new one on to 'reboot' it. Also is there any way of cleaning up the connectors for the CL control module and loom or do i have to replace it? the module has probably been shorting for a few days. And how do I remove the white clips holding the loom on, a good hard pull?

Thanks. I shall Chase these up. Its probably coincidence that the temp sensor has failed then. And my own fault for the rest. The door micro switch has also been playing up for ages. Everything must have got wet at some point.

stupidly I didn't check an i have thrown the other motor away. i looked exactly the same and went on totally fine but i bet there are a few that do that :S

Hi Another door problem with an octy Mk1 1.8t About 2 months ago I replaced my drivers door electric window motor and regulator with a unit form a breakers found on EBay. Since then the outside air temp display on the dash and the climate control unit have been reading about 10C below the actual. Also the drivers door central locking on the fob has been intermittent. I removed the live for the battery for about 10 seconds and reconnected and now the door does not work at all on the fob but does on on the key. Is there possibility the units are not compatible or that i need to reset the ECU to recongnise that it is new? Its baffling... and also it gets very hot in the cabin now as the heaters are on most of the time. I have read about corroded connectors but i did check this when I fitted the replacement. Thanks A

Hi there. how much for the front tweeter grills and mid speaker grills? also the rear tweeter grills? thanks A

pm'd

hi. do you have the front drivers and passengers tweeter housing on the doors please? if so, how much for the pair posted to bath? thanks Ant

Hi. Just been reading through this and I have a problem removing mine on an octy vrs mk1, it seems that the rear hand brake cable is too short and not easy to remove from the caliper. Any ideas. I wish not to just lever it off and damage the rbrake hose and hand brake cable. Any ideas? Or should I just be a little more persuasive with it?