cartervrs

Please do explain ?

As far as I know there isn’t a booster pump. But thank you for the input...! Could have been on the money.

By residual I guess you mean, use the car then turn it off and go back to it after a few hours and check if there is still pressure in the system when removing the cap?

Ok what other symptoms go with head lift then? So when the head lifts your saying that would be under full load/boost. Lifting the head over pressurising the water system and putting air in which therefore make the heaters go cold. When I tested the water system for exhaust gas there wasn’t any. Or shall I say the liquid didn’t change colour. So take the head off, new head gasket, arp head bolts and problem solved? There can’t really be anything else that would be causing it!

Thermostat replaced with a genuine one but the old thermostat worked perfectly anyway. When this was out I felt through to the water pump and everything felt fine I couldn’t move the impeller or anything so I don’t think this is the problem. Fully bleed the system back up and the heaters came really warm. Then when I drove home they were fine until I give it some boost. Then they went cold almost like the pressure is being released from the system. while I was doing the thermostat, I did the exhaust gas test in the coolant this tested fine, pressure tested the system as well and found no leaks and it held pressure perfectly. I am am thinking it could be the expansion tank lid, is this common to release pressure?

I couldn’t agree more, no point messing about for that amount of money. Do TPS do genuine parts?

Going to check the thermostat when I get a chance this week! Boiling water and see if it opens. what happens if I remove it all the together, I have read that the temp will be all over the place and it will take long to warm up... is that correct?

Doesn’t drop one bit of water or oil. I have removed the undertray for a few weeks, always gets parked in the same spot and there is nothing on the ground. Water temp sensor, the sensor is ok always solid at 90 degrees and works properly even when it is over 90. went for a drive tonight, I can get heat through the heaters you just have to be driving at a constant speed for a minute or so. If you give it any power or high RPM you loose heat straight away! Makes me wonder weather the head gasket it failing when there is high pressure from the RPM/Boost. Can anyone shed any light on this!? Does boost effect water pressure? I am guess RPM does.

Yes bled the system properly.... don’t know what else to do. Was hoping for a few ideas on what it could be!

Should the bottom hose be hot if the car is past 90 degrees? Can anyone get me a good diagram on the water system? Like realoem for BMW ??

Hello, a few months ago I started having problems with my heaters. They would work when you were driving the car and go cold when you left it to idle. Few hours are searching, these are the things I have done, I have flushed the system numerous times using different engine flushes then the hose pipe to clean the heater matrix and radiator. I would have a little success but it was always short lived. After a month of messing about the car was due a service, so I went for the full job. (I have known the car for 5 years and it’s never been done) I changed the pump, belts, tensioners, coolant, oils, filters etc. After this the heaters worked better for 1 week and then reduced to just blowing ‘warm’ air and cold when it idled. Next I changed the heater matrix core, as that was always getting blocked up, after running water back through it I was always getting brown coloured water coming out of it. I changed this and got the same problem. Now the car car has started overheating, just at 70mph on the motorway and the gauge creeps past 90 degrees, I will add that at this point the car does not blow hot air at all!! So I continue keeping a very close eye on the temp, the car never get to hot so I limp home. When I get home I jump out the car, open the bonnet and all the pipes are warm but the one from the bottom of the radiator to he bottom of the thermostat. So here are my questions: • I need to test the thermostat, but can this cause these problems? • blocked front radiator? • Head Gasket? (No common signs) • new water pump failed? (There is return flow into my extension Tank) • Is there anything I am missing or could check? Motor flaps have been checked and work. The car doesn’t use water, there is no clear mixing of water and oil, Oil is clean. Non genuine parts used on service! To bleed the system I removed expansion tank lid ran on a fast idle till the fan cycled on and off the topped up water (if needed and replaced lid) Any help would be massively appreciated!

pm'd

Hello, please message me i am interested in this. thank you

I have noticed that I have a leak on the steering rack. I found this yesterday, it is in the passenger side boot. This has a split in it and leaks only when you turn. I was wondering do I just have to replace the boot or is there a seal underneath that has gone? Could you point me in the right direction of what I need to do? Cheers Tom

Pm'd

Expansion tank? I will PM you now!

Does like fit a mk1 2007 fabia vrs? Cheers

Could just the intercooler be fitted to a mk1 fabia vrs?

Are you in Preston? I live in clitheroe so I can pick it up! Will PM ou now!

Has this sold?

You don't have a front brake set up do you?

Hello Briskoda, First post on here. I have had my 2007 VRS Mk1 for a couple of months now and there is a grinding noise coming from the rear driver's side wheel, now i am confident after listening to it and had a few other people listen that it is a wheel bearing. After looking around on the web i think that i can do it myself, but i was wondering about the choice in hub as my car has ABS, i am fairly sure i will need a hub with a 'magnet' in it, (this is where my knowledge runs out) i have been quoted by the local shop, £42 for the hub. I was wondering if any one else as had this problem before and could give me advice on it, should i use a genuine part? Is a non-geniune part ok? will it throw an ABS light up n my dash... etc? Cheers Tom Happy Easter everyone!!

I have the Eibach springs (10mm drop) on mine, the ride is stiffer but it gives you that confidence when you do come to turn in. however if i was to buy them again i would go for the 30mm drop ones as i think to would sit a lot nicer.