adriches

Tried Above idea and it popped the slave cylinder got a 2nd 1 now but not keen on doing the same again. Tried using an eezibleed but nothing happens from the slave cylinder. Just now have a rock solid brake pedal. Deffo got air in clutch system but cant get rid of it. Any ideas?

Sorted the clutch all bled and happy with it but no reverse gear. Any ideas?

Should my clutch pedal be returning at all? At minute mine just hits the floor & doesnt return

any tips for bleeding the clutch on a mk1 vrs. Ive swapped the slave cylinder but cant get any pressure back in the pedal

last few days i have noticed that my interior light has sometimes ( but not everytime) acted a little strange. By this i just mean on pressing unlock on the key fob it comes on but rather than stay on for the usual period turns straight off. It illuminates again when the door is open and again shuts off as the door closes. It is hit & miss sometimes works like stated others it behaves as expected. Not by any means end of the world just wondering if anyone has any ideas why it might behave this way?

Been having a look just now and have re-fitted the pedal 3 times this morning, each time with the same end result. The pedal operates the clutch when compressed but still doesn't feel how id expect.. I have watched the pedal in operation and the white end of the spring which sits on the pedal rises, causing the body of the spring to bend. It just really does not look right to me. I have checked and double checked that the spring seats correctly in the fitting in the footwell and 100% last time it was sat in position correctly. Can anyone confirm that the spring should compress or bend please? If it should compress then my only current idea is that the fitting in the footwell is upside down. If anyone could confirm which way this fitting should sit it would be a great help thanks

What am i not having, Clutch pedal playing up, clunking on front suspension, rear door lock, binding rear brakes, rattling exhaust, and a never ending problem with the engine, starting with vac pipes and been a continual chase every payday since april. Next week it goes back in for more diagnostics on engine, another smoke test and more investigations into suspension. This weekend looking into clutch, greasing up brakes. For every problem i fix it seems 2 more appear. Whats so annoying is its every area of the car, and i took my time finding it when i bought it. Fsh, 69k on an 03plate. No mods, nice and clean inside & out starting to think mileage is so low because of time it spends in garage.

1 of the problems on my seemingly never ending fault list is the clutch. A few weeks back i had the pedal snap so went down route of welding and new white clip from skoda. The pedal has never felt right since. Ive just had a look in my footwell and on compressing the pedal with my hand i have noticed the spring bends upwards where as i would have thought it should compress. Is the spring operating correctly? If it is operating incorrectly, how should it look? anyone any ideas on why it is behaving this way? & what should i do to correct it?

Just my luck, i get the 1 vrs that is absolute pants Im actually looking forward to getting rid

I'll nip skoda shortly. Not keen on keeping the car to really justify getting poly's. Lol Just need it fully & safely operational. Dont like thought of selling an unsafe car

The plastic sleeve is the reason for needing to change, just seeming to be more of a pain than expected finding a 17mm bush

Just wondering if anyone has managed to get front anti roll bar bushes from eurocarparts? Ive been through all the posts regarding what size diameter bush to get and am trying for a 17mm bush The problem is on eurocarparts their system is trying to say its a 21mm internal diameter. Ive tried searching other vag cars and have found some for a golf which are 18mm and that seems to be as close as im getting. Would an 18mm bush work? Or does anyone know what car details to put in to find a 17mm bush?

Thats my sunday morning sorted then lol

Thanks decender. I'll look into those, any tips for ways to test on mk1's?

The front suspension on my mk1 vrs is giving me some bother. The steering is horrible, feels very slack and i seem to be getting excessive feedback through the steering for the slightest thing ( minor changes in road surface, cats eyes etc) the road noise also seems to be rather louder than i remember when i bought the car. I know the tracking needs doing and that will be to blame for some vibrations but i feel there is something more sinister so ive checked all usuals cv, drop links, track rod ends. All appear in good working order. Also the spring on each side is complete and seated nicely in each strut. Now the anti roll bar im not sure of. It seems pretty solid in the bushes but how can i best test them? With the wheel off there does appear to be a line over the top half of the bar that looks new( shiny black) opposed to the rest of the bush which looks to be the original 11 year old part slightly discoloured and aged. Is this purely down to the suspension being under no load or could it be something worth checking? The driver side does feel worse but the passenger side is not far behind. Any ideas on places to check etc will be much appriciated

Is the pcv for the vrs the same as other 1.8t's? Skoda is out of stock

A little update. I've had a bit of a look and it is appearing to be the crankcase breather that is responsible for the oil in the TIP. In the new year I didn't replace the pcv valve so have had a look and from looking online I've read it should rattle if working (mine doesn't) however with me blowing it is 'working' as a 1 way valve. Does this sound good or bad? Lol. It doesn't visually look to be no good but is there any other way of testing the valve? As usual when checking online seen the horror stories of it could be turbo seals. So checked, no smoke nor any metal shavings in the throttle body. If not the pcv valve is there anything else you would suspect as cause for oil in the TIP?

I have again come across some problems with my mk I vrs: The revs seem to be unsteady with the power delivery quite jerky and on several occasions now whilst driving at a steady speed the car be felt to suddenly be very laboured and the power can be felt to die off. I had problems at the start of the year with my breather system where the 'y' pipe had turned to bubble gum and the pancake valve was also shot. I replaced all with new genuine parts ( pancake valve, 'y' pipe, plastic tube and the t-piece) The way the car is running is similar and so tonight I have had a quick look. Now the turbo inlet pipe is internally lined with oil. I have a split-r fitted that is set to vent and the trumpet has black deposits along the lines of carbon/ oil. Which pipes/ valves would people recommend checking? Any help would be appreciated

Thanks. Going to give it a go over the weekend. Just thought id check rather than have the spring go off with my head in the footwell lol

Anybody able to point me in the direction of a walkthrough or able to explain how to remove/ reinstall the clutch pedal assembly on the mk1 vrs. (The tip of the pedal assembly behind the dash has snapped leaving the pedal useless) Ive looked and am guessing its the 1 bolt on either side of the assembly, just wondering what to do regarding the spring on the pedal. I have been through haynes but it only seems to mention sensors

On a quick run car feels loads better but still had odd lil hiccup so was thinking it might be the oil. Il let it run a bit and see how i go

Ive just replaced a shot PCV and have found my TIP has an internal coating of oil. How can i clean it? Its the standard inlet pipe & i dont have funds at the minute to get a silicone 1

Just wondering what condition are the breather pipes? I already have a new top 'y' crankcase breather and the connecting plastic 's' pipe. I'm interested in the rest of the breather system from the 't' piece (from under the inlet manifold) backwards.

Cheers. Just thought I'd check because the threads I've been through like bowders all remove the SAI

So far I have replaced the top 'y' and connecting 's' pipe, but after a couple of days of smooth running I've gone back to my original problem of occasional limp home, flat spots 1500-2000 rpm and feeling of low power. I've opened up the joint between th 'y' &'s' pipes and again have mayo filling the pipes. And so I'm suspecting the 't' piece connector under the inlet manifold. So a couple of questions, Anyone know the part number for the 't' piece? Is it a dealer only part or are there suppliers anyone can direct me to? Secondly to get to it I know it'll be easier for me to pull the n112 & n249 out the way ( something I'm hardly gutted about) Can I remove those, fit the resistors etc then re install the secondary air for now simply to save a bit of money then remove the secondary air when I can get the blanking plate?