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Leeboy

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Everything posted by Leeboy

  1. What he said is good advice, if you cant remove the lenses because the screw heads have disintegrated into rust, then pull the bottled plastic off and you can do it from within the car. Then you have to replace the plastic trim panel which for the uninitiated can be troublesome! Dip the screw threads in a little waxoyl or grease wouldn't go a miss either.
  2. Here you go, and yes 200,000 miles is what the garage said. I've obscured part of the number plate. Bit of reflection on the window unfortunately but you get the idea.
  3. Hi all, a little while ago I posted this. Well 9 months later it was parked up at my local independent garage where my Octy vrs was in for its mot today (which it passed :)). Had a look and it has its plaque indicating 64/100. No stickers, but got the right bits on it but looking like it needs a bit of tlc. Garage tells me the owner has had it from new though. Would appear it lives in or around Amesbury, Wiltshire.
  4. Judging from the second photo the car has had some modification as it as an aftermarket DV. If you remove the plastic shroud infrastructure of the inlet manifold. Have a feel underneath the black metal plate and inlet manifold to see if pipework has been removed. Does the vehicle still have the secondary air pump down near the air con compressor at the front of the engine?
  5. Have a look here at my project thread, page 7: For a long time I was convinced it was the cam cover gasket and changed it twice to no avail. The oil was covering the top of the gearbox and everything else in the vicinity. Off came the chain tensioner once the inlet cam was removed and 4,000 miles later and it's still dry. My work was made easier by previous deletes around that side of the engine, took me a morning of working slowly. Having done it once, I could probably do it in half the time now.
  6. Yellow Peril II had a bit of a clean up this morning after last being cleaned in mid August. Was really quite mucky but not now!
  7. Just more reliable and look pretty! Unless you had new coils under the service campaign and even then if that was several years ago, if your going to replace then the 2.0 l ones are good for reliability. You will need to buy extra items like the spacer of clamps, otherwise they plug into the existing loom connectors.
  8. Skidmoose, Is this the sort of thing you are after? You'll see I run 2.0 tfsi coil packs which needs a spacer or clamps as they are taller than conventional 1.8t coil packs. This allows space to lift the loom off the cam cover and to fit the loom cover. I bought this on eBay and *think* it was for a 2.0l tfsi engine but does fit the AUQ engine. Maybe there is a part number I can see for you tomorrow. Because I run a tubular manifold that sticks up somewhat I made a heat shield too out of a bit of stainless steel. Check out Yellow peril 2 thread in Octavia build projects.
  9. All good advice here, one thing I would look at if I was you would be the rigid plastic elbow from the crank case breather thingy that your silicone replacement pipe attaches to. This is how mine looked on an engine that had done just under 130 thou miles when I bought my current vrs. despite cleaning out the gunk, I ended up replacing it as the ply had gone brittle.
  10. The two lines are the breather system for the fuel tank such that as the tank empties and you refuel, the vapour vents through the carbon canister and not direct to the atmosphere. Part of the emissions control system. For my mk1 Octavia vrs, I have deleted the SAI and simplified the vacuum system together with a catch can but left the carbon canister in place.
  11. Another one for the list! 1 . andsoutham - BMW M235i (RWD) 2 . Hyphons - Skoda Citigo 3 . Niceyellowvrs - BMW 318Ti Compact (RWD) 4. Thorpe76 - mk2 octavia tfsi 5. Lkim13- mk2 octavia tfsi 6. Hardcore Hobbit - Octavia vRS mk1. 7. BJB540 - Suzuki Swift Sport / Octavia vRS mk1. 8. mk4gtiturbo - Octy3 vRS TDI / BMW 31(2)8Ti Compact (RWD) (if it's built by then!) 9. Mushtafa - MK1 octy vRS 10. V6TDI - Octavia III vRS DSG 11. Gjgrst - Golf MK4 TDI 12. Themanwithnoaim - Octavia vRS245 13. Leeboy - car to be decided
  12. Turns out the rear drum cylinders were seized. Replaced and system bled, we now have brakes. Mot on Monday.
  13. What injectors are you running? I have a set of 348cc (does that sound about right?) that I can send to you in the post. If they solve the problem you can send me some money for them. If they don't, just post them back when you can. Had your fuel filter been changed in the recent past?
  14. Thanks all for your advice. Hoping the rear cylinders are OK as these are replaced about three years ago. As brake bleeding is a bit of a faff for one person without an assistant, it's gone to my local garage I use for mots and the like this morning for them to check things out. I will report back.
  15. I still have my K Rapid but it's been off the road for about a year now. it failed an mot last September for emissions so Saturday I stripped down the carbs, checked the jets for crud and had a go at balancing the throttle butterflies. The battery was dead so after overnight charging it was ready for action on Monday with new oil and filter too. Started quickly after carb floats had filled and after some further fiddling with a rather cheap carb balancer, it idles much better than it use to and a short drive around the estate indicated it was running really quite well. I even got the Gunsens colour tune spark plug gadget out to see what a couple of cylinders were running like. Nice blue burn at idle and low revs with a bit of orange creeping in at higher revs. I'm hoping that the mot emissions check at 2000rpm will be fine on the back of this. This is all very well but the short drive around the houses identified I have no brakes to speak of. Handbrake work fine and there was no evidence of fluid loss at any of the four corners and the master cylinder doesn't appear to be leaking (unlike the clutch master cylinder which I replaced last year). So after a prolonged lay up do I just need a simple bleed of the system with fresh fluid or is the master cylinder a potential problem. There is no pedal pressure and it pretty much goes to the floor. There is some retardation but when it takes several metres to stop at 10 mph, it's not going anywhere near an mot just yet. Any guidance appreciated.
  16. I found "bleached" spots after prolonged wet contact when water has been sat on the paint for a while. Once the water has evaporated off and the paint drys out in a bit of sunshine, the white patches disappear. The paint work is yellow, does this sound the same as you both see?
  17. Might be cheaper to get an engine from a scrappy work on it off the car then drop the old one out and in with the new? I've a 1.6 k series conversion in my old Rapid and it's so easy to work on!
  18. Glad you got there. Just to add to this Tom, in the absence of screw to hold disc in place, a couple of lengths of M14 threaded rod are very handy to loosely screw into the hub assembly with the disc lined up appropriately, then can be used to guide on the wheel, pop in bolts where you don't have the rod, unscrew when ready and put the last two bolts in. This is soooo much quicker than the ball ache that is wobbling around a heavy rim trying to line holes up especially if your disc is wobbling around. Particularly so for front wheels when you don't have a handbrake to apply to aid holding everything in place!
  19. Hello there. What he said, do you also not get the little red car with a door open symbol on the dash when you open the door of you still have the key in the ignition, whereas perhaps you do if one of the other doors or boot is opened? All points to door lock or possible corrosion with door loom connector. Lots of threads around these parts!
  20. Interesting, do you have a lot of gunk in the PCV system? I assume the hockey puck is a one way valve. Is it therefore just bunged up. How much was a new one? I'm looking at preventative fixes I can do with mine just to keep it running sweet!
  21. As it happens, I reused the cam cover gasket I already had as it hadn't done that much service but if your's is original I would, and yeah, new chain tensioner gasket. Taking out the front inlet cam had me thinking that I will probably need a new camshaft seal at the timing belt end, but I'd started the job without a replacement. As it turns out, it's fine. You'll need some sealant for the end cap at the timing belt end as this one covers both cams and forms that end of the cylinder head to which the cam cover bolts down over. I followed Haynes manual instructions on unbolting the caps. Turn engine around to TDC and it was something like start with 3 and 5, then 2 and 4 and the end caps. They are all numbered so just work methodically and in TDC, the cam followers are fairly evenly spread. I didn't practice as I could be bothered to drag the old engine out of the corner of the garage! Give it a go and don't rush!
  22. I'm pleased to finally report oil leak is solved!! This week saw me in Yorkshire and no real chance to test the car beforehand so after a round trip of 580 miles, we are oil free around the side of the cylinder head at last   Car drove as expected despite my reservation about removing cam shafts which I haven't done before on one of these engines. And satisfying to know that the tool and gasket cost less than £25 off ebay saving me probably at least 2 and a half hours labour at a garage! Now need to think what I can fix next!
  23. Hello again after a while of no new news. First day off work for a while to get the spanners out and have a look at this pesky oil leak from around the chain tensioner. Started off rotating engine to TDC should anything cause problems with refitting. Then I removed the paraphernalia associated with the coil packs and also removed the charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler for easier access. Cam cover off, tool and new gasket at hand and ready to start. After considering whether it was possible to change the gasket that sits under the chain tensioner assembly, it seem easier to remove the inlet cam. Then it could be manoeuvred out of the way without having to unhook the timing change from the sprocket. I had though put a blob of paint on the sprockets and chains to be safe and check to be sure nothing would be out on refitting. Old gasket looked a bit mankey Getting the cam out of its bearing caps meant I could give the surfaces of the chain tensioner assembly a goods clean prior to putting the new gasket set in. Then everything was put back together and a litre of oil added to top it back up to max mark. Also went back to red cam cover. First thing to report is the car starts and runs so seems it all went back together correctly. I will give it a test drive later to see if the leak has been solved! Meanwhile arty photo of car down at Exmouth the other month.
  24. I'd look at the gasket between the downpipe and the turbo as a possible source too. It maybe possible to feel with the back of your hand from above when running the engine with a bit of increased revs, otherwise a garage will probably have better access to check when up on a ramp. Dont burn yourself whatever do. I assume the rest of the exhaust system was checked too?
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