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JackHill

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Everything posted by JackHill

  1. Just double checked- that's what I've been told. You ordered 2wd or 4wd? I've gone for 2wd- perhaps that's why?
  2. Hi - Placed order 2nd March (1.4 150 DSG SE L). Current estimated build week on system is 17th April. Hope that helps.
  3. How do chaps. Some good selections here. Just ordered mine. SE L 1.4 TSI 150 PS DSG 2WD Pacific Blue - Black Alcantara interior Electrically adjustable driver seat with memory function and lumbar support (PB1) 19" Triglav alloy wheels (PJ5) Space saver spare wheel (7-seater) (PJE) Heated windscreen (PKV) Ambient lighting (PN3) Exterior door mirrors electrically folding and auto-dimming with memory (PW2) Travel assist (PWD) Electric child safety lock with rear window roller blinds (PXC) Canton sound system (RA2) Heated washer nozzles for front windscreen (9T1) Front and rear parking sensors (7X2) Folding table on front seat backrests (1U9) ISOFIX on front passenger seat (3G1) Colour Maxi-DOT (9S6) Personalisation of drive mode selection (8QG) Sun visors with mirror, illuminated (5XH) Textile floor mats (0TD) Awaiting build date...
  4. So - Direct Line used their approved repairer to do mine. Took about 3 weeks for them to complete (took them a while to source replacement unit). Wasn't too bothered as I got a like-for-like hire car during the process. The bill in the end (which I asked the repairer for over the phone - the insurers never told me) was .... wait for it ... about £5700. That doesn't include the hire car. How they could justify that, I've no idea. The bill was for: replacement passenger window, replacement window seal, replacement plastic trim on door, replacement head unit, replacement trim around head unit, latest official Skoda Sat Nav DVD (which, of course, isn't really the latest...) and re-upholstering the base of the passenger seat where the broken glass had scratched it. My premium only went up by about £200, so (given that I'd already dealt with being pi**ed off that I would have to have an increase in premium through no fault of my own) I was fairly relieved, given the extortionate cost of the repair.
  5. Richard - sorry to hear that. Such a pain in the a*se. Happened to me, so feel your pain - just be thankful you've only got a £100 excess! You might find this thread of interest http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/382772-theft-of-columbus/
  6. You could try a flap recalibration. Hold down "AC" and "face vent" button until lights start flashing. Each flap servo will go through it's full motion and reset its endpoints. Might help. Should only take 30 seconds or so. If the lights are still flashing after 90 secs then there's an issue with one of your flaps - either physically stuck or actuator fried. Hope that helps.
  7. My car is back (after 3 weeks) after being broken into in Halifax. Everything is repaired. Now have the new style Columbus with the "TMC" button as opposed to the "Traffic" button. I prefer the old style personally, but that's by-the-by. I notice that they've downgraded the firmware of the unit to what it would have been when originally installed on the car (I can see why they would do this for compatibility reasons), so I'll have to upgrade the firmware at some point to get various features back (postcode search, radio text, Bluetooth playback that works etc.) My thoughts now turn to prevention. I will get some of the security screws from ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RNS-510-310-RCD-300-500-MFD2-security-screws-anti-theft-protection-VW-SEAT-SKODA-/261757676903)- I like the idea of 4 different screws to make it more difficult. I have also bought one of these (design in reverse because it's going on the inside of a window) http://www.designwizard.creiton.com/projects.php?name=projects/kre_en/2016/03/30/0719254673750.jpg. I intend to stick it on the passenger side window (they always break in on the passenger side because there's more space to work). I had to buy 4. Happy to post one of my spare 3 to anyone who wants one once they arrive. Hopefully it will act as some form of deterrent. Any other suggestions (other than those already discussed above) welcome.
  8. Same happened to me yesterday in Halifax. I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same people that got yours. Will buy some screws. Others beware! Off to feel sorry for myself.
  9. One other thing worth checking - this happened to me once just after the wife had driven off a kerb (similar to the sleeping policemen you mention). Snapped coil spring at the rear - I assume a small part of the snapped coil got trapped between the shield/disk. Noise stopped after short distance. Car appeared fine. Only noticed the broken spring about 5 days afterward when I noticed the car wasn't level.
  10. In your case the O between T and F is an O. Everything else is a 0. http://www.vindecoderz.com/EN/check-lookup/TMBKJ73TOF9037042
  11. The end of an era! Thanks for the thread. What's next?
  12. This thread might also be of help... http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/212870-auto-lights-sensitivity/ Sensor dirty? New windscreen? Impoted car from somewhere with more sun? Hopefully one of these and not a faulty sensor. Good luck!
  13. This is what the manual says "If the light switch is in the position AUTO, the symbol illuminates when the ignition is switched on next to the light switch. If the low beam is activated with the light sensor, the symbol (SIDELIGHT) illuminates additionally next to the light switch." This implies that AUTO should light when in auto mode and lights are off, but buth AUTO and (SIDELIGHT) should light up if the light sensor switches on the lowbeams. Not sure whether mine does this - I don't remember ever seing the AUTO light up (just the SIDELIGHT symbol)...
  14. The sidelight symbol light is certainly meant to be illuminated when you're in AUTO mode and when the light sensor thinks that the low beam should be on. Personally, I have always thought that doesn't make sense - why illuminate the sidelight symbol when the car has put your lowbeam on? Maybe someone out there with more wisdom than me can enlighten me? In terms of whether it's on all the time - I doubt it should be (although I have not checked for sure in my car). Perhaps it is always on when the light level is low enough that the car thinks the lowbeam should be on, regardless of whether they are or not. That would make some sort of sense. Does the light ever go off in direct sunlight? Do your lowbeams turn off in direct sunlight in AUTO mode? If not, either the sensor might be broken or the sensitivity might need adjusting - particularly given your location.
  15. Think the driver's side base has gone on mine, so I'd be interested in the fix - looking forward to the update!
  16. Apologies for going off topic slightly - psycholist - how did you diagnose DPF pressure sensor - just increased idle speed and running fans, or did diagnostics report a fault? Thanks.
  17. Dual Mass Flywheel? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vUVy69xRT0
  18. Yep. Had this before. Rubber seal stopped working after I replaced a bulb. Rain water getting in when driving. Use silicone grease on the seals http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SILICONE-GREASE-FOR-O-RINGS-BRAKE-CALIPERS-RUBBER-SEALS-WATER-REPELLENT/200740434025?_trksid=p2141725.c100338.m3726&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20141212152715%26meid%3D0e3f0bf0f6ed40dfab9b2013885e8535%26pid%3D100338%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D29%26sd%3D200918149715 If that doesn't work drill a very small hole in the bottom of the cluster to let the water drain out...
  19. I have the super skoda ones. Single piece rear for the estate. Good fit. Another difference between van style and super skoda is that the van style ones come with a bag to keep them in, whereas the super skoda ones don't. It's unlikely to be a deal breaker, but if you think you're going to be taking them in and out a bit, it might be nice to have somewhere to keep them!
  20. Welcome! Glad you're enjoying your new car. Columbus-wise - how about this: http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/347105-skoda-columbus-rns-510-dab-mfd3-led-navigation-system-v12-2015-maps/ £600 delivered seems pretty good!
  21. DGW - you're quite right http://www.caristaapp.com/hardware/ maybe go for a v1.5 off ebay then. It says that the iOS version has the same functionality http://www.caristaapp.com/ios/ but obviously I have no experience of this!
  22. Silver1011 - I can't find the exact one in my ebay history - I bought it too long ago, but it was one like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TORQUE-ANDROID-Super-Mini-ELM327-V2-1-OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Adapter-Auto-Scanner-/321119635389?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4ac438c7bd Any one will do- I'd go for on that says it's v2.1 and that says it supports CAN BUS, like this one. You can get wifi ones as well, but I've only ever used bluetooth. J306TD - For faults I have the engine running. It also does some kind of rudimentary emissions test- I've never used it, but I think the engine has to have been running for a bit for it to work. For customisation the app says within it that the ignition should be on, but the engine should not be running, so that's what I did. One thing I should mention. I noticed that when I reset the country to Australia I lost some of the other settings on the Maxidot got reset to default (nothing major- clock, language etc were fine. Needed to set units back to miles from km). I just set them again in the Maxidot. To get the big mph display, there is a setting in the top level menu of the Maxidot that says something like "alternative unit display" uncheck this option, then the big speed display option appears with all the other possibilities that you can select in the MFD. Hope that helps...
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